L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 2023 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano T o find the place I ' d l i k e t o s h o w y o u t o d a y , w e n e e d t o l e a v e behind Tuscany's iconic rolling hills with their vineyards and olive groves, a n d v e n t u r e d e e p e r i n t o the V a l d ' O r c i a r e g i o n . Between the historic towns of Siena and Montepulciano — approximately 50 kilometers south of the first — and just a stone's throw away from the UNESCO World Heritage site of Pienza, lies a village that defies conventional urbanis- t i c n o r m s . W e l c o m e t o B a g n o V i g n o n i , a p l a c e where the central piazza is not adorned with statues or fountains but is, in fact, a steaming thermal pool that has been the lifeblood of the c o m m u n i t y f o r c e n t u r i e s : Piazza delle Sorgenti is a rectangular pool dating back to the 16th century, filled with thermal waters coming from underground volcanic layers. Situated within the larger c o m m u n e o f S a n Q u i r i c o d'Orcia, Bagno Vignoni offers far more than just its heal- i n g w a t e r s . It's a village where history, culture, and natural beauty converge, pro- viding a unique experience t h a t t r a n s c e n d s a t y p i c a l tourist itinerary. Here, water is not merely a geographical feature, it's a cherished part of local culture, a symbol of the village's history, and of its f r u i t f u l r e l a t i o n s h i p w i t h nature. T h e t h e r m a l w a t e r s o f Bagno Vignoni have been a sanctuary of healing and reju- venation since Antiquity, and its thermal baths have been mentioned in historical documents as far back as the Roman era, making it a long- standing symbol of wellness and relaxation. Because it w a s s i t u a t e d a l o n g t h e ancient Via Francigena, a pilgrimage route that con- nected Canterbury to Rome, f o r c e n t u r i e s t h e v i l l a g e served as a rest stop for weary travelers. O v e r t h e y e a r s , B a g n o Vignoni welcomed a host of i l l u s t r i o u s v i s i t o r s w h o sought solace in its healing waters: Pope Pius II, a native of nearby Corsignano, wrote about the therapeutic quali- ties of the baths; Caterina da Siena, the revered Dominican nun and theologian, is said to have visited the baths to find spiritual and physical relief, while Lorenzo de Medici, the great patron of the Renais- sance, also frequented these t h e r m a l w a t e r s , f u r t h e r cementing the village's repu- tation as a haven for both the body and the mind. But the village's historical significance extends beyond its baths. Nestled among the Tuscan hills, Bagno Vignoni w a s s t r a t e g i c a l l y l o c a t e d n e a r i m p o r t a n t m e d i e v a l trade routes, which led to the c o n s t r u c t i o n o f f o u r mills carved directly into the rock. These mills were ingeniously powered by the thermal waters themselves, allowing them to operate year-round. Unlike other mills that depended on sea- s o n a l w a t e r s o u r c e s , t h e mills of Bagno Vignoni were a cornerstone of the local economy, providing a reli- able source of income and sustenance for the commu- nity. T h e v i l l a g e ' s t h e r m a l waters also played a role in l o c a l r e l i g i o u s p r a c t i c e s . The Church of San Gio- vanni Battista, built in the 16th century, overlooks the thermal pool and has a bap- tismal font fed by the ther- mal waters. This unique fea- ture symbolizes the village's harmonious blend of spiritu- al and physical wellness. Now, let's say something more about Bagno Vignoni's thermal waters, a natural marvel that offers more than just a soothing soak. They spring at a temperature of about 49°C and have been c e l e b r a t e d s i n c e R o m a n times for their healing prop- erties; rich in minerals like sulfur and calcium, they are believed to have multiple t h e r a p e u t i c b e n e f i t s , s o much so that, starting in the 12th century, they were even used for thermal mud-thera- p y , a p r a c t i c e c o m b i n i n g mineral-rich mud and warm w a t e r f o r a r e j u v e n a t i n g t r e a t m e n t . B u t B a g n o Vignoni's thermal waters are not just a balm for the skin, they are also said to improve circulation and relieve mus- cular tension: their precious minerals are thought to pen- etrate the skin, entering the bloodstream and promoting o v e r a l l w e l l - b e i n g . T h i s makes the baths a holistic t r e a t m e n t , b e n e f i c i a l f o r both the body and the mind. Needless to say, the waters had a significant impact on the local economy and today, while it's no longer possible to bathe in the ancient cen- tral pool, the village offers modern spa treatments at v a r i o u s a c c o m m o d a t i o n facilities, which provide a y e a r - r o u n d b o o s t t o t h e economy of this tiny village with only 30 inhabitants. Interestingly, the village's ethereal beauty has not gone unnoticed by filmmakers. S o v i e t d i r e c t o r A n d r e j Tarkovskij chose Bagno Vignoni as the backdrop for many scenes in his film Nos- t a l g h i a , w h i c h w o n t h e Grand Prix du Cinéma de Création at the Cannes Film Festival in 1983. The ther- m a l p o o l a l s o f e a t u r e s in Carlo Verdone's film Al L u p o a l L u p o , a d d i n g a touch of magic to the narra- t i v e . T h e s e f i l m s h a v e immortalized the village on the silver screen, making it a p o i n t o f i n t e r e s t f o r c i n e p h i l e s a n d c a s u a l tourists alike. W h i l e B a g n o V i g n o n i itself is a treasure trove of history and natural beauty, the surrounding areas o f f e r t h e i r o w n u n i q u e attractions. Just a short dis- tance from the village center, y o u ' l l f i n d t h e N a t u r a l Park of the Mills: estab- lished in 1997, this protected natural area is home to sev- eral abandoned mills that date back to the 1950s. The park is also where the ther- mal waters from the village's central pool flow into, mak- ing it an excellent spot for a day of relaxation and well- ness, provided current regu- lations allow it. To the south l i e s t h e a n c i e n t R o m a n thermal baths: this area offers a slightly cooler ther- mal experience, set against an incredibly picturesque b a c k d r o p . Y o u c a n a l s o observe the original Roman baths and the path the water took in ancient times. Bagno Vignoni is situated about 5 kilometers south of San Quirico d'Orcia and is m o r e o r l e s s e q u i d i s t a n t from Castiglione d'Orcia. Other nearby localities worth visiting include, of course, Pienza, which is just 7 kilo- meters away: each of these towns offers its own unique Tuscan charm and attrac- tions. LUCA SIGNORINI Bagno Vignoni, the Tuscan village made of water ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES Bagni Vignoni's Piazza delle Sorgenti, the heart of the village (Photo: Marco Ciannarella/Dreamstime)

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