L'Italo-Americano

LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21 2023 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano P i e m o n t e , l i k e m a n y o t h e r regions of Italy, is a p l a c e w h e r e n a t u r e a n d c u l - ture intertwine seamlessly. Its vast vineyards, which are not only a symbol of the region's viticultural expertise but also a UNESCO-protected heritage - think the Langhe, Monferra- to, and Roero areas - are a deeply-hued work of nature's art against the backdrop of the majestic Alps. But beyond its picturesque landscapes, Piemonte is, at its core, a cul- turally rural region: here, the e t h o s o f s u s t a i n a b i l i t y , resourcefulness, and inven- tiveness isn't just a trend, is something rooted in centuries o f l i v i n g i n h a r m o n y w i t h nature. In such a setting, it's no surprise that the Piedmontese embraced the making of a product born from the wish to ensure nothing went to waste. Enter grappa, a creation of Italy's Northwest, crafted from the remnants of wine- m a k i n g , w h i c h t h e Piedomtese embraced as their o w n . I n t h e h e a r t o f t h e region, the Distilleria San Carlo keeps high the tradi- tion of grappa making, cap- turing the essence of the Ital- i a n w a y o f l i f e a n d t h e d e e p - r o o t e d c o n n e c t i o n between Piemonte and its grapes. To learn more about Distil- leria San Carlo, we need to move to Celle Enomondo, a small village of around 470 where everything, including its name, is steeped in the lore o f g r a p e s . T h e v e r y n a m e "Enomondo" is a poetic blend of the Greek word for "wine" and the Italian term denoting purity; this unique moniker, bestowed upon the village after Italy's unification, sets it apart from other "Celle" vil- lages dotting the Italian land- scape. But it's not just the name that speaks of winemaking, here. The Distilleria San C a r l o , a j e w e l o f C e l l e Enomondo, exemplifies this connection between territo- rio, comunità and tradizione perfectly. Though small in size - it is the smallest in Italy! - the distillery is a pow- e r h o u s e o f t r a d i t i o n a n d craftsmanship. The connection between grapes, distilling, and the V a l s a n i a f a m i l y , o w n e r s of Distilleria San Carlo, is d e e p . A n d i t a l l s t a r t e d with Nonno Arturo. Ste- fania Valsania, the vision- ary behind the distillery, often reminisces about her grandfather: for him, the end of the harvest season wasn't just about reaping the fruits of his labor—it was a sacred ritual. Even when life took him to the bustling city of T u r i n , A r t u r o ' s h e a r t r e m a i n e d t e t h e r e d t o h i s vineyards so, every weekend, without fail, he would return, nurturing both the vines and, we love to imagine, his soul. The season's zenith was a grand feast, a celebration of hard work, where the fruits of the vine—both wine and grappa—were shared gener- ously. And as the sun set on the 4th of November, San Carlo's day, Arturo would unveil his latest creation, dis- tilled in his cherished alem- bic, under the family home's portico. Two decades ago Stefania, alongside her husband Gian- carlo—a connoisseur in his own right—set out on a mis- s i o n : t h e i r g o a l w a s t o breathe new life into the dis- tillery and, while they intro- duced modern techniques, the soul of Arturo's methods remained untouched. Indeed, though compact the Distilleria San Carlo stands as a marvel of design and innovation. Giancarlo, with reverence for ancient practices and a deep-seated respect for tradition, devised a unique distillation system. H i s " a r c h a e o l o g i c a l " a p p r o a c h e m b r a c e d t h e time-honored Piedmon- tese bain-marie double distillation method. This technique, rooted in the gen- tle art of water bath heating, ensures that the vapor inti- m a t e l y m i n g l e s w i t h t h e grape marc. Let's delve a bit deeper into the method together: a bain-marie, known in Eng- lish as a water bath or double boiler, is a method used to heat materials gently or to maintain their warmth over a p e r i o d . T h e n a m e c o m e s f r o m t h e F r e n c h b a i n d e Marie, which translates to "Mary's bath". This tech- nique has historical roots, with the name being attrib- uted to Mary the Jewess, an a n c i e n t a l c h e m i s t w h o i s believed to have created the method. In the context of distillation, especially in the Piedmontese tradition, the bain-marie process involves using two containers: the o u t e r c o n t a i n e r h o l d s a w o r k i n g f l u i d , t y p i c a l l y water, while the inner con- tainer, which is immersed about halfway into the work- ing fluid, holds the substance to be heated—in this case, the grape marc. The heat source beneath the outer container causes the temper- ature of the working fluid to rise, transferring heat to the inner container: this ensures a consistent temperature, allowing the substance inside to be heated gently and uni- formly. The Piedmontese bain- m a r i e d o u b l e d i s t i l l a t i o n method is particularly signif- icant because it requires the vapor to come into direct contact with the grape marc. This necessitates a more gen- t l e a n d s l o w e r p r o c e s s , ensuring that the flavors and essence of the grape marc are p r e s e r v e d w i t h o u t b e i n g altered by excessive heat. The result is a distillation process that is unhurried and meticulous, and that cap- tures the true essence of the grape without compromise. Back on the hills around Celle Enomondo, we must talk about wines, too: the vineyards of Piemonte are r e n o w n e d f o r p r o d u c i n g some of Italy's most celebrat- ed wines and, naturally, the distillers at San Carlo are meticulous in selecting the local grape marc. Their flag- ship products include mono- varietal grappas of Nebbiolo, Moscato, and a blend of Bar- bera, Dolcetto, and Nebbiolo. These grappas are sincere, w i t h n o a d d i t i v e s , n o t even the minimal sugar per- centage permitted by law. I find that the Distilleria San Carlo, with its deep con- nection with territory and family, well embodies our ideal of Italian craftsman- ship, tradition, and passion. A s o n e v i s i t o r , A r m i n M , beautifully said on TripAdvi- sor, "wine is the blood of the earth, grappa is its soul," and at the Distilleria, I reckon, they know it well. I n a w o r l d i n c o n s t a n t change, the Distilleria San Carlo - with its loving bond with the past, nurtured with the know-how and technolo- gy of the present - is the per- fect representation of what I believe to be the very soul a n d h e a r t o f P i e m o n t e , a region that understood how, to keep the past we love alive, we must embrace progress and make it our friend. FRANCESCA BEZZONE "Tutto grazie a nonno!" The story and life of Piemonte's Distilleria San Carlo Distilleria San Carlo has been created to honor a long-lasting family tradition, Nonno Arturo's grappa (Photo: Distilleria San Carlo)

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