L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19 2023 www.italoamericano.org 10 L'Italo-Americano " In the last few days I have been to Tivoli and I have seen one of the first wonders o f n a t u r e . T h e waterfalls, the ruins and the overall landscape belong to those objects, the knowledge of which enriches our most inner souls." It is with these words that the great German writer and intellectual J.W. Goethe described Tivoli in his Ital- ian Journey. And how right h e w a s ! T h i s q u a i n t t o w n located in the Lazio region of central Italy, near the falls of the Aniene River, is a place where history, architecture, and nature blend seamlessly. Its long, fascinating histo- ry brings us back to 1215 BC, long before the times of Vir- gil, who would call it Tibur S u p e r b u m i n h i s g l o r i o u s A e n e i d . I t s p r o x i m i t y t o R o m e m a d e i t a p o p u l a r resort destination for Roman nobles and emperors, who adorned the town with mag- nificent villas and gardens, leaving a legacy that we can s t i l l f u l l y a n d a m a z i n g l y enjoy to this day. Indeed, we tend to associ- ate the beauty and cultural significance of Tivoli with the splendor of Roman architec- ture, and there is reason for it: let's take Villa Adriana (Hadrian's Villa), a vast com- p l e x e r e c t e d b y R o m a n E m p e r o r H a d r i a n . T h i s U N E S C O W o r l d H e r i t a g e Site brings together architec- tural elements from Egypt, Greece, and Rome amidst scenic green settings. Time may have worn its original form, but the grandeur of its second-century architectural prowess is still very much visible. L e t u s m o v e f o r w a r d , though, to explore a, per- haps, less popularly known Tivoli, one that spaces from the elegant artistic endeavors of the Renaissance, to the ever-surprising majesty of nature. Without a doubt, one of Tivoli's crown jewels is Villa d'Este, a superb representa- tion of Renaissance architec- t u r e a n d g a r d e n d e s i g n . Commissioned by Cardinal Ippolito d'Este in the 16th century, this estate exempli- f i e s t h e m a g n i f i c e n c e o f Renaissance aesthetics with its spectacular gardens, the design of which was consid- ered pioneering back then. Characterized by a central alley intersecting with paths leading to various fountains, Villa d'Este's gardens are perhaps better known for the Fontana dell'Organo, with a water-powered organ, and the Fontana dell'O- vato, with its cool walkway behind a waterfall. Adding a medieval touch to Tivoli's architectural nar- r a t i v e i s R o c c a P i a , a fortress symbol of the town's medieval era. While not as opulent as the villas, Rocca Pia is a strong structure that echoes the defensive archi- tectural style prevalent dur- ing medieval times and adds a contrasting yet enriching layer to Tivoli's predomi- nantly Roman and Renais- sance architectural scenery . But, nestled as it is in the beautifully whimsical cam- pagna romana, Tivoli has a lot to offer to nature lovers, too, and there isn't, perhaps, a better representation of this than the Villa Grego- riana park. Commissioned by Pope Gregory XVI in 1835 to combat the frequent dev- astating floods caused by the Aniene River, the park is n o w h o m e t o a s e r i e s o f majestic waterfalls and grot- tos. The most spectacular of these is the Grande Cas- c a t a , a w a t e r f a l l t h a t plunges 108 meters into the depths, creating a stunning visual and auditory spectacle for visitors. The park also houses other natural forma- tions like the Sirens' Grot- to and the Grotto of Nep- t u n e , e a c h u n i q u e l y beautiful. I f y o u a r e i n t o a m o r e rugged, less landscaped type of nature, you'll be happy to know that there are plenty of v e r d a n t t r a i l s w e a v i n g through the town's outskirts to explore. These trails are hand-curated, and offer a mix between nature and the historical sights that punctu- ate the landscape. Here, the campagna romana, with its undulating hills and tranquil countryside, forms a pic- turesque backdrop to the town and becomes the true protagonist. C o n s i d e r i n g h o w w e l l Tivoli brings together the wonders of art and nature, it isn't surprising to find out it has been source of inspira- tion and love for more than a n a r t i s t . T h e t o w n ' s enchanting landscapes and a r c h i t e c t u r a l l a n d m a r k s have been a muse for poets, writers, and musicians, and fostered a rich tradition of artistic homage to Tivoli's own special beauty. The illustrious German p o e t W o l f g a n g G o e t h e held Tivoli in high esteem, finding profound inspiration in its scenic vistas. Villa Gre- goriana, with its cascading w a t e r f a l l s , h e l d a s p e c i a l place in Goethe's heart, epit- omizing the unadulterated beauty of nature. Yet, his admiration didn't end there: the ancient ruins of Tibur Superbum and the venerable wisteria near the Temple of Vesta - known as Goethe's wisteria, believed to be the oldest plant in Europe - also captured his imagination. Goethe revered these spots, and they inspired him to put his admiration for Tivoli on paper in his famous Italian Journey. It was Tivoli's spirituality t h a t , o n t h e o t h e r h a n d , s t r u c k a c h o r d w i t h t h e f o u n d e r o f F r e n c h l i t e r a r y r o m a n t i c i s m , Chateaubriand. The tran- quility and devout ambiance of the Sanctuary of the Virgin Mary of Quintilio- lo touched him deeply, lead- ing to the composition of the Prayer of the Pilgrim, in his s e m i n a l w o r k G e n i u s o f Christianity. In the realm of music, the majestic Villa d'Este played host to the composer Franz Liszt, who found himself enthralled by the villa's Ital- ian gardens and the playful water displays of its foun- tains. From his quaint room in Villa d'Este, Liszt could admire the panoramic beau- ty of the Roman countryside, a scene that undoubtedly stirred his musical genius. Let's move on to another excellence of Tivoli, its culi- nary scene. Tivoli cuisine is rooted in the town's agricul- tural tradition, where the simplicity of the Tiburtini customs shine through bal- a n c e d d i s h e s m a d e f r o m carefully chosen, genuine ingredients. Notable prod- ucts include the unique Piz- z u t e l l o g r a p e a n d t h e exquisite extra virgin olive oil known as Terre Tibur- tine. The oil, characterized by a golden yellow hue with green undertones, offers a fruity yet slightly spicy fla- vor, likely reminiscent of the ancient Oleum Tiburtinum prized since Roman times. A d d i t i o n a l l y , t h e A n i e n e River has facilitated the cul- ture of trout farming in the area, a tradition harkening back to the times of Emperor N e r o a n d c o n t i n u i n g i n estates like Villa Gregoriana and Villa d'Este. Left, the charm of a sunny Tivoli (Photo: Stefano Valeri/Dreamstime) and, right, water games at Villa d'Este (Photo: Perseomedusa/Dreamstime) Tivoli: a beauty that goes beyond Roman times GIULIA FRANCESCHINI ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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