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THURSDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2023 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano salted water and served with t o m a t o s a u c e a n d g r a t e d pecorino cheese, or simply with olive oil and pecorino in b i a n c o . I n s o m e r e g i o n s , they are also enjoyed with mushrooms when in season. Secondo Sarde alla Beccafico win hands down! This Sicil- i a n d e l i c a c y i s d e e p l y ingrained in regional history and it's known for its unique blend of flavors and textures. The origins of the dish can be traced back to the Middle A g e s w h e n A r a b c u l i n a r y i n f l u e n c e s s i g n i f i c a n t l y impacted Sicilian gastrono- my. At the heart of the recipe we find, of course, le sarde, which are meticulously fillet- ed and laid flat, then stuffed with a medley of ingredients, i n c l u d i n g b r e a d c r u m b s , grated pecorino cheese, fine- are ready. C u l u r g i o n e s , o n t h e o t h e r h a n d , a r e a t y p e o f ravioli typical of Sardinia, quintessential part of the island's cuisine, particularly of the province of Ogliastra. They are most commonly s t u f f e d w i t h a m i x t u r e o f potatoes, although the ingre- dients can vary significantly based on local customs: in many towns in Ogliastra, the filling recipe includes mint a n d g a r l i c i n a d d i t i o n t o potatoes, and in some areas, cheese is a dominant ingre- d i e n t — t h o s e f i l l e d w i t h cheese are the ones I person- ally prefer. The pasta for culurgiones is traditionally m a d e f r o m a m i x t u r e o f s e m o l i n a a n d f l o u r o r semolina alone, mixed with warm salted water. They are usually boiled in ly minced garlic, fresh pars- ley, pine nuts, and plump raisins. It is this stuffing that lends the dish its unique bal- a n c e o f s w e e t a n d s a v o r y notes. Dessert Call me old fashioned, but at Christmas, you can't beat a p r o p e r , b a k e r y - m a d e panettone at the end of a meal: its iconic domed shape and the delicate balance of f l u f f y t e x t u r e a n d s w e e t , fruity flavors make it a cen- terpiece at holiday gather- ings across the country. Its origins are legendary and m o s t l y r e v o l v e a r o u n d a y o u n g l a d c a l l e d T o n i , believed to have transformed a humble loaf of bread into the sweet, airy delicacy that we know today. Let me tell you something important: when selecting your panettone, the choice of where you buy it matters immensely. While commer- c i a l v e r s i o n s a r e r e a d i l y available, nothing compares to the quality and delicious- ness of bakery-made panet- tone: honestly, you can't say you've tried the real thing until you get your hands on one of those! And while a variety of flavors exist, con- sider embracing the classic, traditional version: simplici- ty, in some cases, is best. ...last but not least ...Something you can have whenever you like during the meal because they can be savory or sweet: p e t t o l e l u c a n e . P r i m a r i l y m a d e f r o m a m i x t u r e o f f l o u r , water, yeast, and salt, then deep-fried, what makes them special is their versatility, especially during the Christ- m a s s e a s o n : t h o s e w i t h a sweet tooth can enjoy them dusted with powdered sugar, but if you prefer something savory and tasty, then you c a n a d d i n g r e d i e n t s l i k e olives or anchovies to the batter and transform them in a perfect aperitivo, or even side dish. Interestingly, while many families make pettole lucane at home, they are also a sta- ple of street food during the h o l i d a y s e a s o n w h e n t h e enticing aroma of deep-fried d o u g h f i l l s v i l l a g e s a n d towns in Basilicata, in glori- ous anticipation of the culi- nary delights awaiting us all on our Christmas day table. S o u t h , c a p p e l l e t t i i n brodo. Traditionally associ- ated with Emilia-Romagna, they are small, hat-shaped pasta, typically filled with a m i x t u r e o f m e a t s a n d cheese, and served in a fla- v o r f u l b r o t h . T h e f i l l i n g often includes a blend of pork, veal, and sometimes other meats like prosciutto o r m o r t a d e l l a , c o m b i n e d with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, nutmeg, and other seasonings. T h e b r o t h , a n i n t e g r a l part of this dish, is usually a c l e a r , h e a r t y s t o c k m a d e from chicken or capon, to which vegetables like car- rots, celery, and onions are often added to make it even more flavorsome. Cappellet- ti are cooked directly in this broth until they float to the surface, the telltale sign they W h e n i t comes to f o o d , e v e r y r e g i o n — and every family, to be hon- est!—has its own traditions, especially at Christmas. M i n e s t r a m a r i t a t a a n d pasta al forno in Naples, canederli in Trentino-Alto Adige, tortellini in brodo a bit everywhere: the variety and choice are endless. B u t w e a l l h a v e o u r favorites, don't we? So what would your ideal Christ- mas dinner look like, if you could choose everything you l i k e t h e m o s t f r o m e a c h region of Italy? Take a look at my own personal selec- tion, and let me know what you think! Antipasto Ah! It has to be cappon magro! Cappon magro is a traditional Ligurian dish, often associated with Christ- mas and New Year's Eve cel- ebrations. Rich and elegant, it has, actually, very humble origins, as it was traditional- ly made by fishermen using leftover fish and vegetables. Over time, it became a more elaborate affair served by the nobility, featuring various boiled vegetables, prawns, lobster, olive oil, and salsa verde. Preparing it at home is no easy feat, but fear not: every good gastronomia in Liguria makes it on order for special occasions. T h e b a s e o f c a p p o n magro typically consists of hard biscuits known as gal- lette, which are rubbed with garlic and soaked in vinegar. Layers are then added, con- sisting of many vegetables, fish, or seafood. Common ingredients include boiled white fish, lobster, green beans, celery, carrots, beets, a n d p o t a t o e s . L a y e r s a r e dressed with a sauce, the s a l s a v e r d e , m a d e f r o m p a r s l e y , g a r l i c , c a p e r s , anchovies, hard-boiled egg yolks, and green olives, all ground together in a mortar with olive oil and vinegar. Primo Two choices here: I just couldn't make up my mind. First, I'll go with a classic p o p u l a r f r o m N o r t h t o GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Cappelletti in brodo are a favorite in Italy for Christmas (Photo: Estudio Conceito/Dreamstime) Sarde alla Beccafico are typical for Christmas in Sicily (Photo: Ppy2010ha/Dreamstime) The ultimate Italian Christmas dinner LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE