L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JANUARY 25, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano Y o u s a y " f o c a c - c i a " a n d " L i g - u r i a , " a n d t h o u g h t s g o immediately to Genova and its olive oil-rich culinary icon, la focaccia genovese. However, Liguri- ans know well there is also that "other" focaccia, the one from Recco, which is just as lovely and delightful. Focaccia di Recco has a long, rich history and a unique regional identity. As its name attests, it comes from Recco, a coastal town in Liguria not too far from G e n o v a i t s e l f . I t s o r i g i n s date back, according to tra- dition, to the 12th century, m o r e s p e c i f i c a l l y t o t h e y e a r s o f t h e T h i r d C r u - sade, when locals sought refuge from Saracen raids in Liguria's mountainous hin- terland and created this flat- bread using the only ingre- dients at hand: flour, water, olive oil, salt, and cheese. U n l i k e o t h e r t y p e s o f focaccia, particularly the Genoese variety, Focaccia di Recco is characterized by its l a c k o f l e a v e n i n g a g e n t s , which gives it a distinctly t h i n a n d c r i s p y t e x t u r e . The dough is made from a s i m p l e m i x t u r e o f f l o u r , water, salt, and extra virgin olive oil, rolled out into two very thin sheets, which are t h e n u s e d t o s a n d w i c h a g e n e r o u s l a y e r o f f r e s h cheese. Ideally, it should be prescinseua, but strac chino or crescenza, known for their creamy and melting qualities, are also used. P r e s c i n s e u a c h e e s e i s deeply connected with the rural and pastoral traditions of the Ligurian hinterland: it is exclusively produced in this region, especially in the province of Genova, follow- i n g t r a d i t i o n a l m e t h o d s . Prescinseua used to be a sta- ple for local shepherds and farmers, and was appreciat- e d f o r i t s s i m p l i c i t y a n d nutritional value; its specific history is somewhat nebu- lous, but it has undoubtedly been a Ligurian specialty for centuries. Taste-wise, it's a bit like a mix of cheese and yogurt, with a soft, creamy texture, and slightly acidic f l a v o r . C o n t r a r y t o m o r e famous Italian cheeses, it is not aged and is meant to be consumed fresh. Ancient origins and sim- ple, local ingredients are a g r e a t t h i n g , b u t t h e t r u e turning point for Focaccia di Recco was the 1950s when it became very popular among summer tourists visiting the Ligurian coast. This surge in demand led to its transfor- mation from a somewhat lit- tle-known food, prepared only when prescinseua was made, to a year-round offer- i n g . E n t e r O s t e r i a M a n u e l i n a : f o u n d e d i n 1885, this well-known local eatery played a pivotal role in popularizing Focaccia di Recco when it turned, in the early 1960s, from a simple roadside tavern to a restau- rant, thanks to the entrepre- n e u r i a l v i s i o n o f G i a n n i Carbone, who was at its helm back then. Under his stewardship, Manuelina bec ame a go-to culinary desti- n a t i o n a n d o u r s p e c i a l , cheesy focaccia was elevated there from local grub to a s y m b o l o f r e g i o n a l pride. Osteria Manuelina has seen several transforma- tions over the years, includ- ing a move, in 1960, to its current location, where it became the beloved restau- rant people know today. It e v e n h a s i t s o w n l i t e r a r y c l a i m t o f a m e , a s i t w a s mentioned by Umberto Eco in The Foucault's Pendulum. I n 1 9 8 3 , t h e " M a n u e l i n a family" grew with the open- i n g o f F o c a c c e r i a Manuelina: more street- food oriented and, of course, known for its Focaccia di Recco, it did so well that, in 2014, a second outlet was o p e n e d i n M i l a n , f u r t h e r spreading its fame. F o c a c c i a d i R e c c o , i t ' s easy to see, is a dish that truly embodies the history and produce of the area, so it's not surprising that the European Union recognized its cultural and gastronomic significance by granting it, in 2012, the Indicazione G e o g r a f i c a P r o t e t t a ( I G P ) s t a t u s , w h i c h i s designed to protect and pro- mote regional foods whose authenticity and origin can be traced back to a specific place. This label ensures that o n l y p r o d u c t s g e n u i n e l y coming from a particular region can be sold under a specific name. In the case of Focaccia di Recco, the I G P s t a t u s v a l i d a t e s i t s exclusive connection to the town of Recco and its neigh- boring areas in the Liguria region. This geographical limitation is crucial in main- t a i n i n g t h e q u a l i t y a n d u n i q u e n e s s o f t h e d i s h b e c a u s e i t e n s u r e s t h e name "Focaccia di Recco" is reserved for products gen- uinely originating from this area and made with specific ingredients. Indeed, another key aspect of the IGP status is the preservation of tradi- tional recipes and produc- tion methods. For Focaccia di Recco, this means adher- ing to the old ways of mak- ing the thin, crispy bread and using authentic prescin- seua cheese. But how do you make it, I h e a r y o u a s k . W e l l , t h e process may seem straight- f o r w a r d , b u t i t a c t u a l l y requires a certain dexterity a n d k n o w - h o w i n t h e k i t c h e n , p a r t i c u l a r l y i n s t r e t c h i n g t h e d o u g h t o achieve the desired thinness (a piece of advice: the use of h i g h - p r o t e i n b r e a d f l o u r enhances the dough's elas- ticity, so it becomes easier to stretch). When it comes to temperature, bake it at the highest your kitchen oven can go, to ensure a perfectly crisp and golden finish. Focaccia di Recco, this simple and ancient food cre- ated for necessity and made famous at Manuelina's dur- ing Italy's economic boom of t h e 1 9 6 0 s , e v e n t u a l l y crossed Italian borders to reach culinary enthusiasts also in the United States, especially in New York. As reported by The New York Times, there are a few focac- cerie in the Big Apple mak- ing a pretty good version of it. Back in Liguria, Focaccia di Recco is celebrated annu- ally with a festival in the vil- lage where it was created, which attracts both locals and tourists alike, all eager to try this iconic dish. Recco, and the "other" Ligurian focaccia GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Focaccia di Recco is usually made with traditional Ligurian cheese prescinseua (Photo: Izanbar/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED

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