L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano M onteleone d'Orvieto is a l o v e l y h a m l e t l o c a t e d i n the Umbria region, not far from the border with Tuscany. The closest larger town is Città della Pieve, about 10 kilometers away, which is itself a little jewel of art and history. Monteleone's position offers a perfect vantage point to explore both Umbria and Tuscany, making it an ideal s p o t f o r t h o s e l o o k i n g t o immerse themselves in Italy's rich cultural heritage and nat- ural beauty. To its visitors, this village offers a serene escape into a world where time seems to move at a gen- tler pace: perched as it is atop a hill, it offers breathtaking v i e w s o f t h e s u r r o u n d i n g countryside, filled with rolling hills, lush vineyards, and olive groves. Its hilltop position made it an important military, strate- gic, and commercial spot, as it offered views and control over the trade routes crisscrossing t h e U m b r i a n a n d T u s c a n countryside. This advantage meant that, during the Middle Ages, Monteleone was often at the center of skirmishes and power struggles between com- peting local lords, the Papal States, and the burgeoning city-states such as Florence and Siena. Its fortified walls still stand to remind us of the village's tumultuous history. As it always is in places with an eventful past, the art a n d a r c h i t e c t u r e o f M o n - teleone d'Orvieto are a mirror of its history and the embodi- ment of the aesthetic and spir- itual journey of its people through the centuries. Notable i s t h e C h u r c h o f S a n Francesco, an architectural t r e a s u r e k n o w n f o r i t s Renaissance frescos, as well a s t h e C a s t l e o f M o n - t e l e o n e a n d t h e i c o n i c Torre Mozza. The winding streets of Via Dritta and Via Torta, now named Via Mazzini, are perfect examples of the village's medieval lay- out. Another interesting land- mark in Monteleone is the T e a t r o d e i R u s t i c i . Though modest in size, the theater plays a significant role in the village's cultural life: it is one of the smallest h i s t o r i c a l t h e a t e r s i n t h e world, and it was created thanks to an initiative by local youth in 1732. They sought permission from the town's authorities to use the space, originally a granary within the ancient public palace, for theatrical activities, particu- larly to perform comedies during the Carnival season. This request was unanimous- l y g r a n t e d , m a r k i n g t h e beginning of a longstanding tradition of theater in Mon- teleone d'Orvieto that contin- ues to this day. Its historical significance is further high- lighted by its role as the seat of the Accademia Filodram- matica dei Rustici, which emphasizes its importance in the local cultural landscape. Despite challenges, including suspicions from the Papal State concerned about the spread of revolutionary ideas, t h e t h e a t e r s u r v i v e d a n d thrived. It underwent signifi- cant renovations in the 19th and 20th centuries, preserv- ing its architectural charm and enhancing its functional- ity. M o n t e l e o n e d ' O r v i e t o offers a lot to nature lovers as well. All around the village, t h e U m b r i a n c o u n t r y s i d e u n f o l d s i n a p a n o r a m a o f rolling hills, vineyards, and olive groves; the area is per- fect for hiking and cycling, but also to simply taking in the beauty of central Italy's countryside. When it comes to events and the cultural calendar, M o n t e l e o n e s t a r t s w e l l between December and Janu- ary with its Living Nativity, a representation of the Christ- mas story that brings together the community in a display of f a i t h a n d t r a d i t i o n . T h e Sagra degli Gnocchi, held in mid-June, is a good oppor- tunity to experience local cui- sine and the village's knack for creating delicious, tradi- tional dishes. July sees the Festa di San Lorenzo, a celebration filled with music, good food, and the unique tortuccie, sweet and savory fried pizzas that are a local delicacy. August brings the Homecoming, La Rimpa- t r i a t a , a h e a r t f e l t e v e n t designed to welcome back t h o s e w h o h a v e v e n t u r e d beyond the village in search of new opportunities, reaf- firming the bonds of commu- nity and shared heritage. T h e c u i s i n e o f M o n - teleone d'Orvieto, like much of Umbria, is rooted in the land. Local dishes are made with fresh, seasonal ingredi- ents, emphasizing simplicity and flavor. Truffles, legumes, and game feature prominent- ly, along with the prized olive oil and fine wines produced in the surrounding area. The food here is a reflection of Umbria's culinary heritage, offering a taste of the region's rich bounty and its people's connection to the land. T h e B a t t a g l i a delle Arance, or the Battle of the O r a n g e s , i s a unique and lively tradition held annually in Ivrea, a town in Italy's Pied- mont region. This event is part of the town's historical carnival and takes place over three days, usually in Febru- a r y , l e a d i n g u p t o A s h W e d n e s d a y . T h e f e s t i v a l commemorates a medieval t a l e o f r e b e l l i o n a g a i n s t tyranny, with origins that trace back to a 12th-century revolt against an evil lord. According to the story, the lord had the right to spend the night with any newlywed woman, a claim that was vio- lently rejected by a miller's daughter named Violetta. She managed to decapitate the tyrant, which sparked a m a s s u p r i s i n g a m o n g t h e townspeople. To honor their fight for freedom, the citizens of Ivrea reenact this battle t h r o u g h t h e t h r o w i n g o f oranges, which symbolize the stones and other medieval weapons used by the rebels against the lord's henchmen. The Battle of the Oranges involves thousands of partic- i p a n t s , d i v i d e d i n t o n i n e combat teams on foot, repre- senting the commoners, and several carted teams, sym- bolizing the tyrant's guards. T h e p a r t i c i p a n t s o n f o o t , known as aranceri, engage in a mock battle against those on carts, hurling oranges at e a c h o t h e r : t h e e v e n t i s a serious affair, with many par- ticipants wearing protective gear to avoid injury from the flying fruit. Despite the pro- tective measures, it's com- mon for participants to sus- tain bruises and gashes from the oranges! T h e f e s t i v a l n o t o n l y serves as a lively and colorful spectacle but also as a com- munal celebration of Ivrea's history and spirit of indepen- dence. The oranges used in the battle, which do not grow locally and must be import- ed, often from Sicily, become a symbol of the community's unity and resistance against oppression. After the event, the smashed oranges are col- lected and used for com- p o s t , e n s u r i n g a n e c o - friendly disposal. Visitors and locals alike love the spectacle, with the town's population swelling with tourists eager to witness or participate in the festivi- ties. To be on the safe side, s p e c t a t o r s a r e a d v i s e d t o wear red hats to signal their non-participation and stay behind safety nets to avoid accidental hits by oranges. Time to fight with oranges! (Photo: Zilli Roberto/Dreamstime) The roofs of Monteleone d'Orvieto (Photo: Paolo Giovanni Trovo/Dreamstime) The Battle of the Oranges, the sweetest of all battles! Monteleone d'Orvieto, a village of quiet beauty LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE

• Cover