L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano S formato, flan, timballo, and gattò are iconic I t a l i a n d i s h e s even though, out- side the borders of the Bel- paese or the homes of Ital- ians around the world, they are little known. While shar- i n g s o m e s i m i l a r i t i e s i n terms of preparation and presentation, each of these delicacies has very specific characteristics and origins, w h i c h w e w i l l e x p l o r e together: there is plenty to say about sformato and its gang of savory friends, and there is a lot of goodness to enjoy, too! Lo sformato T h e w o r d s f o r m a t o translates to "unmolded" in I t a l i a n , w h i c h d i r e c t l y reflects the way this dish is presented. Its origins trace back to the Italian Renais- sance when it was served as an elegant, molded custard filled with various ingredi- e n t s s u c h a s v e g e t a b l e s , cheeses, and meats. Initially a delicacy for the a r i s t o c r a c y , s f o r m a t o evolved into a dish enjoyed across Italy, varying from region to region; versatile and popular from North to South, it can be made with a wide variety of ingredients, d e p e n d i n g o n t h e s e a s o n and regional preferences. C o m m o n b a s e s i n c l u d e p u r é e d v e g e t a b l e s l i k e spinach, pumpkin, or arti- c h o k e s , w h i c h a r e t h e n b l e n d e d w i t h b é c h a m e l sauce, eggs, and Parmesan cheese to form a smooth, rich mixture. Sformati are then baked until firm and g o l d e n , a n d e n j o y e d a s a primo (first course) or as a c o n t o r n o ( s i d e d i s h ) i n a more elaborate meal. Some trivia for you: in some historical Italian cook- b o o k s , s f o r m a t o r e c i p e s were considered a test of a chef's skill due to their deli- cate balancing act of flavors and textures. Il flan Flan is often associated with Spanish cuisine, but we eat it in Italy, too. However, here it is a savory dish. The Italian flan, or flan di ver- dure, is typically prepared with a mixture of seasoned vegetables and baked until it achieves a delicate, custard- l i k e c o n s i s t e n c y , o f t e n enriched with local cheeses and eggs. Hang on, you may be saying: isn't this just the same as sformato? In part, you are right, because flan and sformato have a lot in common, but the difference is in the texture, which is typically denser with a thick- er consistency for a flan, due to the higher proportion of whole vegetables used. The Italian flan is particu- larly liked for its simplicity and the spotlight it places on greens: ingredients typically include seasonal vegetables such as zucchini, carrots, or asparagus, which are first sautéed with herbs and then mixed with a binding agent like eggs and often ricotta or Parmesan cheese. The mix- ture is poured into molds and baked until set. Of course, our flan has variations, primarily based on the available local vegeta- b l e s : f o r i n s t a n c e , i n t h e Veneto region, it's often made with radicchio, which gives it a slightly bitter fla- v o r . F l a n i s c o m m o n l y served as a starter or side dish, just like its cousin, the sformato. Il timballo Timballo, also known as timpano, is a pretty theatri- cal concoction, made famous to the international public by the film Big Night: it is, e s s e n t i a l l y , a b a k e d d i s h consisting of pasta, rice, or potatoes, layered with meat, cheese, and vegetables, then e n c a s e d i n p a s t r y , p a s t a dough, or vegetables. The dish's origins are believed to be from Southern Italy, where extravagant presenta- tions and rich ingredients w e r e a w a y t o s h o w t h e w e a l t h a n d s t a t u s o f t h e host. Preparing a timballo is an elaborate affair: the base m i g h t b e t h i n s h e e t s o f pasta, slices of eggplant, or even crepes, which line a d e e p d i s h . T h e s e l a y e r s encase a filling that could i n c l u d e c o m b i n a t i o n s o f r a g ù ( m e a t s a u c e ) , p e a s , hard-boiled eggs, mozzarel- la, and sometimes even tiny meatballs. Once assembled, the timballo is baked until the exterior is crisp and the inside is bubbling. Often, it is served in slices to reveal its intricate layers. In Abruzzo, a traditional timballo might be made with scrippelle, a type of crepe, l a y e r e d w i t h m e a t b a l l s , chicken livers, and cheese. In Sicily, on the other hand, you'll find timballo with egg- plant and macaroni, and o f t e n b a k e d i n a n o r n a t e mold. Now, timballo is a real showstopper, so it's no sur- prise that it's usually served as the main course, particu- larly during festive occasions and large family gatherings. A little curiosity about the n a m e : i t c o m e s f r o m t h e French timbale, and refers to the kettledrum used in orchestras. Likely, it was inspired by the dish's drum- l i k e a p p e a r a n c e w h e n unmolded. Il Gattò Gattò, short for gattò di patate, is a Neapolitan dish from C a m p a n i a , and its name is derived from the French word gâteau (cake). So no, it has nothing to do with cats! I n t r o d u c e d d u r i n g t h e Bourbon rule, it is a savory potato cake, often layered with mozzarella, cured meat, a n d s e a s o n e d w i t h l o c a l herbs, in a fusion of French and Italian culinary tradi- tions that ended up becom- ing a staple of Neapolitan cuisine. The gattò di patate, as its name points out, is primarily made from mashed potatoes e n r i c h e d w i t h e g g s a n d P a r m e s a n c h e e s e , w h i c h provides a dense, cake-like texture. The filling usually features mozzarella cheese, diced ham or salami, and sometimes peas or mush- rooms. The entire mixture is flavored with nutmeg and black pepper, then topped with breadcrumbs and dots o f b u t t e r b e f o r e b a k i n g . Gattò is generally served as a main dish. At Christmas, no h o u s e h o l d r e n o u n c e s i t s gattò in Naples, where some people still refer to it affec- tionately as gattò 'mpac- chiuse or "clumsy cake," due to its rustic appearance and dense texture. Sformato, timballo, gattò, and flan: similar, but not quite the same! GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Potato "gattò" is a typical Neapolitan dish (Photo: Alexander Michko/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED

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