L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano W e all know h o w important café cul- ture is in Italy, with many believing that the first real cafés in Europe w e r e i n v e n t e d h e r e , w i t h Venice often competing with Vienna for this honor. Over t h e y e a r s , w e a t L ' I t a l o - Americano have had the chance to explore and write about some of the country's most beautiful and character- istic cafés, such as Arione in Cuneo, Caffé Il Bicerin in T u r i n , a n d G r a n C a f f è G a m b r i n u s i n N a p l e s . These establishments share a historical charm and a legacy of tradition and quality diffi- cult to find around. But they also share something else: they are all proud members of the Locali Storici d'Italia A s s o c i a t i o n , t h e a i m o f which is preserving and pro- moting Italy's historic cafés, restaurants, bakeries, and hotels. I am lucky enough to have visited several of these his- toric cafés myself, as some of them are local to me. Arione i n C u n e o i s p e r h a p s m y favorite, not solely because I a m a n E n g l i s h l i t e r a t u r e major and how can I ignore Hemingway loved the place!, but also because it brings back memories of my adolescence, w h e n e v e r y t r i p t o C u n e o meant a new grunge music CD, a new set of strings for my left-handed guitar and a nice stroll in Via Roma and under the portici of Piazza Galimber- ti. There, I would regularly stop at Arione for a hot choco- late or a soda, as the teenage- me wasn't as addicted to cof- fee as the middle-aged-me is. W h e n i n u n i v e r s i t y i n Turin, I discovered Al Bicerin, and, just a handful of years ago, while living in Liguria, I became a regular at Piccardo in Imperia. Each café offers a distinct atmosphere where one can truly sense the history around them and, despite their own individual charm, all cafés maintain the same commitment to high quality and a welcoming ambiance. But what is the Associ- azione dei Locali Storici d'Italia? It is an esteemed association dedicated to pre- serving and promoting Italy's historic cafés and other hos- pitality industry locations, real cultural landmarks that have witnessed significant historical events and hosted notable personalities over the years. The association was founded in 1976, with the pri- mary purpose of protecting and highlighting the cultural, historical, and artistic her- itage of Italy's historic cafés, restaurants, and hotels. Often located in historically signifi- cant buildings and known to have been the meeting places for artists, writers, politi- cians, and intellectuals the locali storici are a piece of Italy's popular culture and social history. To become a member of the Locali Storici d'Italia, a café must meet several strin- gent criteria. Firstly, it must have a long-standing history, 7 0 y e a r s a s a m i n i m u m , a l t h o u g h m o s t a r e m u c h older: the average age of a locale storico is 175 years! Moreover, the café should have played a role in signifi- cant historical, cultural, or social events. Secondly, the interior and exterior of the café should retain original architectural elements and design, including period fur- niture, décor, and overall ambiance, to reflect the era in which it was established. Very importantly, the loca- tion should have been a gath- ering place for notable figures in the arts, literature, politics, or other fields, with docu- m e n t a t i o n o r h i s t o r i c a l r e c o r d s o f s u c h p a t r o n s required to prove the veracity of the claim. Last but not least, quality: maintaining a high standard of service and offering traditional Italian café experiences, including serving high-quality coffee, pastries, and other typical offerings, is crucial. M e m b e r s o f t h e L o c a l i Storici d'Italia enjoy several benefits, as the association promotes them through vari- o u s c h a n n e l s , i n c l u d i n g guidebooks, websites, and social media; it also organizes and supports cultural events, such as literary readings, art exhibitions, and historical reenactments in the cafés, to highlight their cultural signif- icance. Quite importantly for loca- tions that are, more often than not, almost two cen- turies old, Locali Storici d'I- talia provides guidance and support for the preservation and restoration of historical elements within the cafés, including connecting café o w n e r s w i t h e x p e r t s i n restoration and conservation. Exploring five historic cafés Arione in Cuneo Founded in 1923, Arione is a celebrated café and pas- try shop located in the heart o f C u n e o . K n o w n f o r i t s exquisite pastries and tradi- t i o n a l C u n e e s i a l R h u m chocolates, Arione is a sym- bol of local craftsmanship a n d e x c e l l e n c e . T h e c a f é m a i n t a i n e d i t s h i s t o r i c a l charm with original furnish- ings and décor and is proud to show off its connection with iconic American writer Ernest Hemingway, who reg- ularly traveled here to buy Cuneesi al rhum. Al Bicerin in Torino Established in 1763, Al Bicerin is one of Turin's most iconic cafés. Located n e a r t h e S a n t u a r i o d e l l a Consolata, this small and cozy "bar" is famous for its namesake drink, Bicerin, a layered concoction of coffee, chocolate, and cream. The café has retained its 19th- century interior, complete with marble tables and wood- e n p a n e l i n g , o f f e r i n g a g l i m p s e i n t o t h e p a s t . Throughout its history Al Bicerin had been a favored spot for intellectuals and artists, including Alexandre Dumas and Friedrich Niet- zsche. Piccardo in Imperia P i c c a r d o , f o u n d e d i n 1905, is a historic café located in Imperia, Liguria. Known for its elegant Art Nouveau architecture and a wide selec- tion of pastries and gelato, Piccardo has been a meeting place for locals and tourists for over a century. The café's beautiful frescoes and origi- nal furnishings contribute to i t s c h a r m a n d h i s t o r i c a l value. Caffè Gilli in Florence Caffè Gilli opened back in 1733 and is one of Flo- rence's oldest and most pres- tigious cafés. Originally locat- ed in Via Calzaiuoli, it moved to its current location in Piaz- za della Repubblica in the early 20th century. Gilli is renowned for its elegant inte- riors, including chandeliers, mirrors, and marble coun- ters, which reflect the opu- lence of the Belle Époque era. The café has been a popular spot for artists and writers, such as Filippo Tommaso Marinetti and Giovanni Papi- ni. Gran Caffè Gambrinus in Naples W e c o u l d n ' t f i n i s h o u r brief excursus of bar storici without a mention of Gran C a f f è G a m b r i n u s , i n Naples. Established in 1860, Gran Caffè Gambrinus is located in the heart of Naples, near the Teatro di San Carlo. Known for its opulent interi- ors, including marble floors and frescoed ceilings, Gam- brinus has been a favorite gathering place for politi- cians, artists, and intellectu- als, including Oscar Wilde and Gabriele D'Annunzio. The café offers a wide range of traditional Neapolitan pas- tries and coffee, maintaining its reputation for excellence. If you are traveling to Italy and want to know if there is a locale storico near you, just visit the Locali Storici d'Italia website (wwww.localistorici .it) and see if you, too, can enjoy a slice of history - and cake! - with a nice cup of cof- fee. CHIARA D'ALESSIO Caffè Florian in Piazza San Marco, Venice, is perhaps one of the most famous historical cafés (Photo: Imagecom/Dreamstime) Bar Storici d'Italia: safeguarding Italy's cultural treasures in its historic cafés HERITAGE HISTORY IDENTITY TRADITIONS PEOPLE

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