L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano I f there is one thing Italians don't mess about, it is their cof- fee: when it comes to kava, we are purists and traditionalists, even a tad fastidious at times. Nothing beats our caffè, nor the way we make it, never mind the trends the world imposes or how good those fancy, fla- vored concoctions we find at Starbucks are. And don't get me wrong, they are good. Our national passion for coffee never wanes, not even d u r i n g t h e h o t s u m m e r months. However, instead of turning to international cof- fee chains for iced coffees and cold milkshakes, we embrace our very own tradition of crafting refreshing coffee beverages. From the delight- ful caffè affogato to the invigorating caffè shakera- to, all the way to Sicily's icon- ic granita al caffè, Italy offers a variety of cold coffee treats fit for a king, which have nothing to envy of more complex and trendy options out there. L e t ' s s t a r t w i t h c a f f è a f f o g a t o , w h i c h m e a n s "drowned coffee" in Italian, a delightful dessert combining espresso and gelato. The ori- gins of affogato are a bit of a mystery, as there are two dif- ferent versions, both relative- ly believable. One credits a F r a n c i s c a n f r i a r n a m e d Angelico from Piedmont, with its invention in the 17th century. Known for crafting l i q u e u r s ( t h e h a z e l n u t Frangelico liqueur, which he c r e a t e d , i s s t i l l p o p u l a r today!), he is said to have s p o n t a n e o u s l y c o m b i n e d vanilla ice cream with espres- s o , t o m a k e w h a t w a s t o become one of Italy's most famous ice cream cups out there. Another theory sug- gests caffè affogato was cre- ated in Turin, where a café o w n e r n o t i c e d c u s t o m e r s enjoying gelato alongside espresso and decided to com- bine the two, resulting in an instant hit. Despite its popularity in Italy and Europe, affogato f a c e d c o m p e t i t i o n i n t h e United States, especially with the introduction of the Frap- puccino in 1992. George Howell, a pioneer of the spe- cialty coffee movement, cre- ated the Frappuccino as a tribute to affogato, combining soft ice cream with coffee, making it more like a milk- s h a k e . W h e n S t a r b u c k s a c q u i r e d H o w e l l ' s C o f f e e Connection in 1994, the Frap- puccino became a widespread phenomenon and ended up overshadowing the affogato. The Frappuccino's appeal to younger audiences with its sweet, creamy profile likely contributed to the affogato's d i m i n i s h e d p r e s e n c e i n American cafes. Despite this, affogato con- tinues to be a favorite in Italy and has seen a resurgence globally with the rise of spe- cialty coffee shops and cre- ative variations, often involv- ing gelato flavors other than the classic vanilla or cream. Another quintessential Italian cold coffee is caffè shakerato. The term "shak- erato" is derived from the I t a l i a n w o r d s h a k e r a r e , clearly related to the English "to shake." Indeed, "shaking" perfectly describes the prepa- ration method for this type of drink, which is mixed in a shaker like a cocktail. Caffè shakerato rose in popularity during the late 20th century, particularly in coastal and warmer regions, where Ital- ian baristas began to experi- ment with various ways to enjoy coffee during the hot summer months. Shakerato quickly became a favorite: its simplicity, coupled with its refreshing qualities, made it a staple in Italian cafés. Caffè shakerato is pre- pared by combining a shot of h o t e s p r e s s o w i t h s u g a r (optional) and shaking it vig- orously with ice in a cocktail shaker. The shaking process chills the coffee and creates a frothy, smooth texture, which is then strained into a glass, usually a martini glass or similar vessel, to be served immediately. As with many traditional beverages, caffè shakerato has seen various a d a p t a t i o n s a n d c r e a t i v e t w i s t s . S o m e v a r i a t i o n s i n c l u d e a d d i n g f l a v o r e d syrups, liqueurs, or even a splash of cream to create a richer, more decadent drink: for instance, adding vanilla or hazelnut syrup can enhance the flavor profile, making it a delightful treat for those with a sweeter tooth. L a s t b u t n o t l e a s t , o f course, we have the queen of a l l c o l d c o f f e e c r e a t i o n s , granita al caffè, a classic Sicilian treat that combines the island's rich cultural his- tory with culinary innovation. T h i s s e m i - f r o z e n d e s s e r t traces its roots back to the Arab rule of Sicily in the 9th century. Indeed, it was the Arabs who introduced sharbat, a refreshing bever- age made from water, sugar, and flavorings, often cooled with snow: this practice laid t h e g r o u n d w o r k f o r t h e granita from Sicily we all know and love today. Mind you, though: in Sicily, the p r e p a r a t i o n o f g r a n i t a evolved uniquely. Back in the Middle Ages, during the win- ter, nivaroli, or snow collec- tors, would ascend Mount Etna to gather snow, storing it in deep trenches insulated with ferns and straw. This snow was preserved for use in summer, when it was trans- ported down the mountain in jute sacks by cart or mule. Originally, granita resem- bled Roman grattachecca, characterized by its coarse, icy texture. But the 16th-cen- tury invention of the pozzet- to, a wooden tub with a zinc bucket, revolutionized its preparation: this device used a m i x o f s n o w a n d s a l t between the wooden tub and the zinc bucket to create a makeshift refrigerator. By stirring a flavored mixture, including coffee, inside with a crank, a smoother, creamier granita was produced, and a culinary Sicilian icon was born. Granita al caffè, tradi- tionally enjoyed with a soft brioche, remains a beloved summer staple in Sicily and a c r o s s t h e c o u n t r y , e v e n though, to be fair, it isn't sim- ple to find a good, top-notch granita siciliana al caffè (or any other flavor) outside of the island. Italian coffee culture, with its rich history and innovative spirit, offers delightful sum- mer treats that stand the test of time and the rise in popu- larity of more internationally famous and trendier drinks. Our caffè affogato, our gran- ite, and our shakerati, keep a special space in our hearts and, of course, also in every trip down il nostro bar we take during the summer! Espresso Escapes: Italy's sun, sand, and sips LUCA SIGNORINI Caffè affogato: some believe it was invented by a Piedmontese monk (Photo: Bhofack2/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED

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