L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 27, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 30 L'Italo-Americano S a l e n t o , o f t e n referred to as the " h e e l " o f I t a l y ' s boot, is a stunning sub-region in the s o u t h e r n p a r t o f P u g l i a (Apulia), located at the south- e a s t e r n t i p o f t h e I t a l i a n peninsula. It includes the provinces of Lecce, Brindisi, a n d T a r a n t o , a n d i s renowned for its breathtaking coastline, rich cultural her- itage, and significant contri- butions to Italy's agricultural and food industries. Geographically, Salento is bordered by the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Ionian Sea to the west, providing it with a unique and strategic maritime position. The land- scape is predominantly flat, i n t e r s p e r s e d w i t h r o l l i n g h i l l s , m a k i n g i t i d e a l f o r extensive agricultural activi- ties. The region enjoys a typi- cal Mediterranean climate, characterized by hot, dry summers and mild, wet win- ters. These conditions create an optimal environment for o l i v e c u l t i v a t i o n , w h i c h thrives in the region's fertile soil. Indeed, Puglia, including Salento, plays a crucial role in Italy's olive oil industry, producing approximately 40% of the country's olive oil, making it one of the largest olive oil-producing regions in the country. The centuries-old tradition of olive cultivation in Puglia r e s u l t e d i n a l a n d s c a p e adorned with millions of olive trees, some of which are over a thousand years old. The olive oil from this region is highly prized for its rich, strong flavor, which is valued both domestically and inter- nationally. At the heart of Salento's o l i v e o i l h e r i t a g e l i e s t h e f r a n t o i i p o g e i , a n c i e n t underground olive oil mills carved into the soft limestone rock prevalent in the region. The expression frantoi ipogei translates to "underground m i l l s , " h i g h l i g h t i n g t h e i r unique subterranean nature. They date back to the Mid- dle Ages, although some evi- dence suggests they were used even earlier during the Roman and Byzantine peri- ods. The construction of fran- toi ipogei was driven by sev- eral practical considerations: firstly, the constant tempera- t u r e a n d h u m i d i t y l e v e l s found underground provided a n i d e a l e n v i r o n m e n t f o r olive oil production and stor- age, as they protected the oil f r o m s p o i l a g e c a u s e d b y extreme weather conditions. Additionally, during times of conflict and invasion, these underground mills were less vulnerable to attacks and l o o t i n g , p r o v i d i n g a s a f e haven for the valuable olive o i l a n d t h e w o r k e r s w h o operated the mills. Lastly, the use of subterranean spaces allowed for the efficient use of land above ground for agri- culture and other purposes. A typical frantoio ipogeo consists of several intercon- nected chambers and pas- sageways, including areas for crushing the olives, pressing the paste, and storing the oil. The primary tools used in t h e s e m i l l s w e r e s t o n e grinders and presses made of wood and stone. The process began with the crushing of o l i v e s u s i n g l a r g e s t o n e wheels turned by human or animal power. The resulting paste was then spread onto mats made of natural fibers, w h i c h w e r e s t a c k e d a n d placed under a press. The pressing process extracted the oil, which was collected in large basins and then stored in clay jars or stone cisterns. Frantoi ipogei are pre- d o m i n a n t l y f o u n d i n t h e provinces of Lecce, Brin- disi, and Taranto, with a high concentration in the towns of Gallipoli, Ugento, and P r e s i c c e . While the frantoi ipogei are no longer used for commercial olive oil production, they remain a significant part of Salento's cultural heritage: many have been restored and preserved as historical sites, offering a fascinating glimpse into the region's agricultural past and the ingenuity of its inhabi- tants. V i s i t o r s t o S a l e n t o c a n e x p l o r e s e v e r a l w e l l - p r e - served frantoi ipogei, which are often included in guided t o u r s t h a t h i g h l i g h t t h e region's rich history and tra- ditions and offer insights into t h e o l i v e o i l p r o d u c t i o n process, the historical signifi- cance of the mills, and the architectural features of the u n d e r g r o u n d s t r u c t u r e s . Notable frantoi ipogei that can be visited include the frantoio ipogeo di Palaz- zo Granafei in Gallipoli, which is located beneath the historic Granafei Palace and is one of the best-preserved examples of an underground olive oil mill. Another signifi- cant site is the frantoio ipo- geo di Presicce, in a town known as the "city of under- ground oil mills" due to the n u m e r o u s f r a n t o i i p o g e i found in the area. The fran- toio ipogeo di Ugento is another important site, offer- ing a detailed look at the tra- ditional methods of olive oil production and the historical context of the frantoi ipogei. For those interested, several local museums and cultural centers offer exhibitions and e d u c a t i o n a l p r o g r a m s f o c u s e d o n t h e h i s t o r y o f olive oil production in Salen- to and often include demon- strations of traditional olive oil extraction techniques, p r o v i d i n g v i s i t o r s w i t h a hands-on understanding of the processes involved. This educational aspect is particu- larly valuable for younger generations and tourists who may be unfamiliar with the historical and cultural signifi- cance of olive oil production in the region. The preservation of frantoi ipogei has sparked interest in sustainable tourism and heritage conservation, with local governments and cultural organizations active- ly involved in maintaining and promoting these sites, ensuring that they remain accessible to the public while protecting their historical i n t e g r i t y . E f f o r t s i n c l u d e detailed archaeological stud- ies, restoration projects, and the development of informa- tive materials to enhance the visitor experience. These ini- tiatives are key for the safe- guarding of the frantoi ipogei and for the broader goal of preserving Salento's cultural landscape. L a s t b u t n o t l e a s t , t h e frantoi ipogei have become a symbol of regional pride, reflecting the resilience and ingenuity of the Salento peo- ple. The story of these under- ground mills is intertwined with the broader narrative of the region's history, from ancient times through the Middle Ages and into the pre- sent day. This rich historical background is evident in the architecture, artifacts, and oral histories associated with the frantoi ipogei, which offer a profound connection to the past. Underground secrets: discovering the frantoi ipogei of Salento GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Gallipoli, an old olives crusher at the hypogeum oil mill of Palazzo Granafei (Photo: Marco Brivio/Dreamstime) Another detail of the hypogeum oil mill under Palazzo Granafei (Photo: Laudibi/Dreamstime) LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE TRADITIONS

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