L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JULY 25, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano S a n L e o , a p i c - turesque village i n t h e E m i l i a Romagna region o f I t a l y , m o r e p r e c i s e l y i n t h e R i m i n i p r o v i n c e , i s a p l a c e f i l l e d with history, culture, and good food. Perched on a hill- top, San Leo offers stun- ning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape and is often referred to as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy and is, in fact, part of the I Borghi più Belli d'Italia network. Originally known as Mon- tefeltro, then renamed after San Leone, believed to be the village's first bishop, San Leo has been a significant strategic and cultural hub for centuries; its prominence began during the Roman era when it served as a critical f o r t i f i c a t i o n d u e t o i t s impregnable position. Over the centuries, San Leo has witnessed the rise and fall of various powers, including the Byzantines, Lombards, and Franks. Each of these cultures has left its mark on the village, contributing to its unique history and artis- tic patrimony. But to us common people, the most fascinating aspect o f S a n L e o ' s h i s t o r y i s , undoubtedly, its association with the enigmatic figure of Count Cagliostro. Born Giuseppe Balsamo in Paler- mo in 1743, Cagliostro was a s e l f - s t y l e d m a g i c i a n , alchemist, and healer who g a i n e d n o t o r i e t y a c r o s s E u r o p e . H i s f l a m b o y a n t lifestyle and mysterious per- sona made him a subject of fascination and controversy. I n 1 7 9 1 , C a g l i o s t r o w a s imprisoned in the fortress of San Leo by the Inquisition, accused of heresy and other crimes. He spent his final years in the fortress, and his legacy continues to intrigue visitors to this day. Indeed, the fortress, an i m p o s i n g s t r u c t u r e t h a t dominates the village, is a must-visit: this formidable fortification has served vari- o u s p u r p o s e s t h r o u g h o u t h i s t o r y , f r o m a m i l i t a r y s t r o n g h o l d t o a p r i s o n . Today, it houses a museum dedicated to the history of the fortress itself and of the village, and includes exhibits on Cagliostro. Visitors can explore the cells where pris- oners were held, including the one that confined the famous Sicilian alchemist. San Leo, though, is more than its imposing fortress. T h e C a t h e d r a l o f S a n Leo, for instance, is a prime e x a m p l e o f R o m a n e s q u e architecture, while the near- b y C h u r c h o f S a n t a Maria Assunta, another R o m a n e s q u e g e m , o f f e r s insights into the village's religious and cultural her- itage. As we always say here at L'Italo-Americano, a day of sightseeing is not com- plete without a good dinner, and San Leo, you can rest assured, is a true heaven for food enthusiasts. The village is famous for its traditional culinary delights, which are deeply rooted in the region's agricultural heritage. One of the local specialties is the Balsamo di Cagliostro, a u n i q u e d i g e s t i v e l i q u e u r m a d e f r o m l i c o r i c e ; l o c a l honey, known for its purity and rich flavor, is a sought- after delicacy. The village is also famous for its formag- gio alle foglie di noce, a cheese aged in walnut leaves, which gives it a unique taste and texture thanks to the infusion of walnut essence during the aging process. San Leo's culinary land- scape is a true reflection of its cultural heritage and the strong sense of community among its inhabitants; the food here is characterized by its authenticity and quality, with each dish representing a different element of local tradition and identity. The village is especially known for how it honors the bounty o f t h e l a n d a n d t h e h i l l s , with its heavy reliance on meats, olive oil, wines, and truffles. Notably, the region i s f a m o u s f o r i t s m o r a romagnola, a type of cured meat with a distinctive taste. Being in Romagna, we can't forget piadine! The local version is known for being t h i n n e r t h a n o t h e r s b u t always filled with an array of delicious ingredients. Hand- made pasta dishes, such as passatelli, strozzapreti, and stuffed cappelletti, are also central to the area's gas- tronomic offerings. Each of these dishes, rich in flavor a n d h i s t o r y , i s a p e r f e c t r e f l e c t i o n o f S a n L e o ' s delightful connection with its heritage, and of its joy de vivre. T h e S a g r a d e l Mare di Proci- da is a culturally rich festival held annually on the i s l a n d o f P r o c i d a i n t h e Gulf of Naples. It was first established in 1939 as a way to celebrate Procida's pro- found connection to the sea, and to highlight the island's h i s t o r i c a l a n d e c o n o m i c reliance on maritime activi- ties. The Sagra is traditionally held during the last week- end of July , with events kicking off with a memorial m a s s o n F r i d a y t o h o n o r t h o s e w h o h a v e l o s t t h e i r lives at sea. The fair continues over the weekend with the famed election of the Graziella, inspired by the novel Gra- ziella by French Romantic poet and novelist Alphonse de Lamartine, who spent time on the island and was e n a m o r e d w i t h i t . I n l i n e with Lamartine's novel pro- tagonist, the pageant cele- brates the beauty and virtues of young Procidane women and sees participants com- p e t i n g i n t r a d i t i o n a l a l l a g r e c a c o s t u m e s , r i c h l y e m b r o i d e r e d i n g o l d . O f c o u r s e , t h e c o r o n a t i o n o f Graziella is one of the main highlights of the festival. The Sagra del Mare also offers a variety of cultural and entertainment events, including concerts, theatrical performances, and art exhi- b i t i o n s , o f t e n i n v o l v i n g n o t a b l e a r t i s t s a n d m u s i - cians: for instance, the 2024 edition will see popular Ital- i a n m u s i c i a n s l i k e R A F , S i m o n a B o o , a n d t h e t r i o S u o n n o d ' A j e r e t a k e t h e stage. The beauty of the Sagra del Mare also lies in the fact that people can really get to know and discover Procida through it, because events a n d a c t i v i t i e s a r e s p r e a d across different locations, e n s u r i n g t h a t a t t e n d e e s experience its full beauty and charm: from Marina Grande to the historic Terra Murata, every corner of the island comes alive with the spirit of celebration. D u r i n g t h e S a g r a , o f c o u r s e , v i s i t o r s h a v e t h e c h a n c e t o i n d u l g e i n t h e island's delicious culinary offerings, including freshly caught seafood, prepared in n u m e r o u s w a y s s u c h a s grilled, fried, or in hearty seafood stews. Local special- ties include linguine con le cozze (linguine with mus- s e l s ) , t o t a n i r i p i e n i ( s t u f f e d s q u i d ) , a n d t h e famous insalata di limoni (lemon salad). For those with a sweet tooth, the graffa (a type of doughnut), provides a delightful snack. Pastel-hued homes in Procida, the island that celebrates the sea every year with a special fair (Photo: Kristinadrozdphotography/Dreamstime) The cell in the fortress of San Leo where Cagliostro was imprisoned (Photo: Stefano Carocci/Dreamstime) and, top left, the fortress itself (Fotolotti/Dreamstime) La Sagra del Mare in Procida honors the sea and a French poet! San Leo, a village of saints and alchemists LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE BORGHI

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