L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 22, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano T here's a lot that q u a l i f i e s a s " e n c h a n t i n g " when speaking of Italy's Ligurian coast. An array of crystal- clear seascapes, colorful vil- lages, dramatic craggy vistas, beaches for miles, and incred- ibly fresh food specialties o f f e r a b o u n t y o f s e n s o r y delights in this stretch of Ital- ian Riviera. Cradling the Lig- urian Sea from Tuscany to the border of France, travel destination superstars such as Cinque Terre and Portofi- no are found here — the hap- pening places for chasing the perfect social media portfolio, resplendent with elbow-to- elbow crowds. Not your thing? Fortunate- ly, the Italian Riviera is also home to numerous less-hectic villages and towns strung like precious pearls along her crystalline sea. A coastline of unmitigated natural beauty and rich cul- ture is found no matter your destination along the collec- tive Ligurian coast, but for those seeking a relaxed yet unforgettable experience, look no further than the tiny h a m l e t o f F i n a l b o r g o . Located about an hour's jour- ney west of Genoa, this mem- ber of I Borghi più Belli d'Italia (The most beautiful villages of Italy) lies nestled between emerald hills just a couple of kilometers inland from her larger sister city – Finale Ligure. Like a fortress wall, the Apennine Mountains trace the entire Ligurian coastline, yet less dramatically than found further south. Ancient limestone outcrops have soft- ened over multiple millennia, creating what now provides some of the best hiking, rock climbing, and mountain bik- ing experiences in Europe. With Finalborgo's proximity to this outdoor playground, the village has established itself as a European hotspot for the adventurous. Year- round moderate tempera- tures, thanks to these same mountains, bring droves of thrill seekers. Just about any given weekend will find the p i a z z a s f i l l e d w i t h l i v e l y groups of muddy, smiling folks raising a toast to the day's fun. If more sedate thrills are your preference, opportuni- ties within the well-preserved medieval walls are many. Pick an elegant hotel easily walkable in minutes from Finale Ligure or perhaps a B&B within the old walls. The first views of Finalborgo are impressive. Intact protective walls fashioned from ages- old layers of brick, stone, and concrete encircle the ancient c e n t r o s t o r i c o a n d s t i l l undergird life actively lived here. Their mottled neutral hues create a stark contrast to the gently faded tangerine- colored surface and regal frescoes of Porta Reale, one of four ancient gates pene- trating the wall. A kindly yet skeptical Madonna and Child watch over all who enter; "be wary" they seem to say. Just around the walls to the left is Porta Testa – so named for its history of hosting severed heads placed as a warning to any who dared to err against the ruling Marquisate of the Del Carrettos. Fortu- nately, its only duty today is providing a medieval-era o r n a t e b a c k d r o p f o r t h e many cafes and shops lining the street. Pay your respects to the Madonna and enter at Porta Reale. At first glance, a some- what ordinary piazza lined by several bars seems a less than impressive greeting. Veer left w h e r e y o u ' l l f i n d a n unadorned church façade overseen by its delightful octagonal bell tower domi- nating the scene. Take time to enter – the Baroque interi- or is breathtaking. Stunning o r n a t e g i l d e d w o o d w o r k , marble floors, banisters, and railings, exquisitely carved angels, and rich frescoes cre- ate awe and sensory over- load. Reflection while seated in a pew offers a nice contrast to the vibrancy outside. Strolling the scenic her- ringbone-pattern streets, the scarcity of kitschy souvenir shops becomes apparent. Instead, artisans and innova- tors here banded together to form a local network known as Fatto a Mano a Final- borgo. With an emphasis on maintaining traditional crafts and skills, shops here are encouraged to showcase local artists and artisans yet make their wares easily available for purchase. Quaint shops offering locally made, arti- sanal goods including hand- cast silver jewelry, whimsical ceramics, and woven textiles reflect local pride and tradi- tion. Several outdoor sports outfitters are located here, as well, that cater to the hiking, biking, and climbing enthusi- asts. Eateries are abundant in Finalborgo. As with much of Italy, local food has humble roots. With adjacent sea and mountains, cuisine is varied with an emphatic focus on fresh, simple, and local. Peas- ant foods like focaccia and f r i e d c h i c k p e a f a r i n a t a become elegant by use of only the best of ingredients. Pesto prepared from abun- dant Genoan basil and Lig- urian olive oil is exquisite; it w i l l m a k e a m e m o r a b l e impression! Seafood special- ties are plentiful and don't miss an authentic Ligurian breakfast – fresh focaccia dipped in a steamy cappucci- no. While more limited in wine production due to diffi- cult-to-access terrain that requires hand harvesting, what is produced here is of high quality. A glass of crisp Vermentino compliments many a seafood dish, while t h e l o c a l P i g a t o w h o s e g r a p e s o n l y g r o w i n t h e Finalborgo region is a perfect pairing for herb-filled pan- soti pasta triangles doused in salsa di noci (walnut sauce). Hungry yet? A good way to assuage an overindulgence, if there is such a thing, while in Final- borgo is to take the short but somewhat steep walk up the bougainvillea-lined Beretta road to the austere fort over- looking the region – Castel San Giovanni. Built by the Spanish in the 1600s, San Giovanni seems locked in a death grip on its rocky ridge, its two pincher-shaped bas- tions extending menacingly toward the sea. The fort has b e e n n i c e l y r e s t o r e d , b u t there's not a lot to see within. However, the 360-degree views laced with a cool sea breeze are worth the effort. An enchanting example of a well-preserved medieval Ligurian village, Finalborgo and the availability of nearby F i n a l e L i g u r e m a k e f o r a wonderful Riviera di Ponente v a c a t i o n . W i t h e a s i l y accessed mountain adven- tures, rich history, culture, flavorful local cuisine, a near- b y b e a u t i f u l m a r i n a a n d b e a c h , c h a r m e n o u g h f o r even the most skeptical, and — at least for this year — fewer crowds, Finalborgo is your perfect less-traveled Ligurian coast get-away. PAULA REYNOLDS LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE Finalborgo: Italy's best-kept secret in the heart of Liguria A view of Saint Catherine Cloisters and Finalborgo from Forte San Giovanni (Photo: Fabio Lotti/Dreamstime) and, bot- tom left, a Medieval re-enactment in the village (Photo: Valerio Bianchi/Dreamstime)

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