L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano T a k e y o u r p i c k . Any of northern I t a l y ' s " l a k e region" lakes are not going to dis- appoint. Not even one of the smallest of the lot, the often- overlooked Lago di Orta. Tiny Lake Orta lies furthest west of Italy's famed lakes, the understudy to the grand d a m e s o f L a k e M a g g i o r e , Lugano, and Como. Like her well-known counterparts, Lake Orta is a heavenly slice of clear water, quaint old vil- lages, and idyllic marinas framed by emerald moun- tains…but pleasingly more tranquil. As a recent first-time visi- t o r h e r e , i t t o o k o n l y moments to reach smitten. Spectacular views, oh yes, but there was room to breathe, opportunity to become lost in delicious thought, and end- less possibility to absorb the n a t u r a l b e a u t y . S u m m e r months become more crowd- ed, naturally, but it seems Italians have kept this little lake a quiet secret to enjoy without too much tainting from excessive tourism. A visit to a northern Italian lake is unique no matter its size, a worthy destination for many reasons. Lake Orta, however, has one attraction that stands out — a man- m a d e m a r v e l t h a t … w e l l … t r u l y m a d e m e m a r v e l . Spread throughout a nature reserve on the hilltop of San N i c o l a o i s t h e U N E S C O World Heritage Site col- l e c t i o n o f s m a l l c h a p e l s known as Sacro Monte di O r t a . A c o m p l e x o f 2 0 unique structures featuring tableaux that depict the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, the complex was begun in 1583 by Capuchin friar Cleto da Castelletto Ticino . The friar's vision included a total of 36 chapels, yet by the com- pletion of the project in 1788 only 20 had come to be. Lake Orta's largest town, Orta San Giulio, is where a pilgrimage best begins. Orta San Giulio is one of the most charming lakeside villages I've encountered, so what better excuse for a visit here. If time and ability allow, a gently steep but impressively beautiful trek leading up to Monte Sacro di Orta leads through small neighborhoods and along trails that offer incredible views. The oppor- tunity to take small breaks to admire your surroundings or p e t a c u r i o u s c a t m a k e a c c o m p l i s h i n g t h e w a l k doable with just the smallest bit of stamina. It seems fit- ting, somehow, to arrive in this special place of devotion on foot. For those unable, a winding back road brings vis- itors by car to the top of the hill where parking is easy. Once at the complex, flat footpaths shaded by huge chestnut trees await along with plentiful benches for rest and reflection. The collection of individu- ally styled chapels is a testa- ment not only to Saint Fran- c i s , b u t a l s o a u n i q u e l y harmonious blending of nat- ural and man-made creation. Breathtaking views over Lake Orta, contemplative gardens, birdsong and trees, stunning frescoes and life-size statuary depicting the life of Saint Francis housed in impressive small chapels – it's an unfor- gettable union of nature, art, and architecture. Upon entering the first of however many chapels one decides to visit, the stirring effect is not unlike viewing any of Italy's profound reli- gious treasures. What differs, though, is the almost odd sense of coming upon what m i g h t b e a f a n c y g a r d e n shed, an ornate yet practical s t r u c t u r e p l a c e d a m i d s t greenery. As the eyes adjust to the dimmed light, a world of exquisite frescoes, altar pieces, and in many, some of the finest lifelike terracotta statuary I've ever seen come to life. No guards, no entry fees, no one shushing voices or reminding non toccare – it's a reflective space freely a v a i l a b l e t o a l l , j u s t a s intended. The chapels are numbered and small plac- ards at the entrance give a brief preview. Pamphlets are available, too, and do add more meaning to the visit. Part of the no guards fea- ture, however, is graffiti on the lower portions of the fres- coed walls. At some point, ornate iron gate works (artis- tic finery in their own right) were placed preventing visi- tors from approaching the altars and statues, which has protected that portion of the chapels. The graffiti is not the e m b o l d e n e d s o r t s e e n o n trains and city walls, fortu- nately, but rather scratched in expressions of love or not- ing a date. Some are as old as the 1600 and 1700s: rather amusing, even if a scourge. Saturation is easy to reach. The incredible detail to be t a k e n i n , t h e m y r i a d moments frozen in forever time, facial expressions so lifelike it's as if you are in that very moment; the mind can only digest so much! Ide- ally the grounds would best be enjoyed spread over sever- al days, but if impossible to do, view as many as able. But that must include the final chapel, number 20 — the largest, featuring an almost indescribable three-dimen- sional scene of the canoniza- tion of Saint Francis. Mod- eled by locals of the time, the various governmental and religious figures are placed in an assemblage of realistic thought, conversation, pos- turing, and even boredom. Getting lost in the moment — as if a guest present — while studying each expression, the exquisite detail and vibrant colors, wonderment at what each character in the scene must be thinking, is mesmer- izing. To add to the realistic feel, talented sculptor Dioni- gi Bussola (1615-1687), cre- a t e d t h e i l l u s i o n o f f u l l dimension by decreasing the size and height of each char- a c t e r a s t h e s c e n e m o v e s closer to the viewer. Gor- geous frescoes emulating decorated walls and paint- i n g s s u r r o u n d t h e s c e n e thanks to the talents of artist A n t o n i o B u s c a ( 1 6 2 5 - 1 6 8 6 ) . I n t e r e s t i n g l y , t h e actual canonization occurred in the 13th century, yet the d i o r a m a h e r e i s f u l l - o n baroque in style. Who's wor- ried about details, though, with this magnificence. I t m u s t b e n o t e d t h a t Sacro Monte di Orta, while unique in its focus solely on Saint Francis of Assisi, is a s i s t e r t o N o r t h e r n I t a l y ' s Sacri Monti, a collection of n i n e c h a p e l c o m p l e x e s designed to integrate nature, spirituality, and art. All were constructed during the 15th and 16th centuries to offer holy sites as an alternative to what had become a danger- ous pilgrimage to the Holy Land. Found in Varello, Crea, Orta, Varese, Oropa, Ossuc- cio, Ghiffa, Domodossola, and Valeria, each are unique i n f o c u s a n d a U N E S C O World Heritage Site. I n s p i r i n g , f a s c i n a t i n g , soul-restoring, and beautiful, Orta's Sacro Monte has value for all who find their way there. It's the perfect trifecta of art, nature, and architec- ture in finest Baroque style. The only thing they forgot was a good trattoria – pack a picnic and you're set! PAULA REYNOLDS LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE Sacro Monte di Orta: Lake Orta's walk through the illustrated life of Saint Francis Fishermen boats along the lake (Photo: Frank Bach/Dreamstime) and, bottom left, a square in quaint Orta San Giulio (Photo: Frank Bach/Dreamstime)

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