L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano O b t a i n i n g a frolla in New York City can be a challeng- i n g c u l i n a r y quest. A frolla, a type of Ital- ian shortcrust pastry, is a staple in many traditional I t a l i a n d e s s e r t s . I t ' s t h e foundation for treats like crostata, tarts, and certain types of cookies. New York City is known for its vibrant and diverse food scene, how- ever, finding authentic frolla is more difficult than one m i g h t i m a g i n e , e v e n i n neighborhoods with strong Italian roots. W h i l e m y f a m i l y a n d I v a c a t i o n e d o n t h e A m a l f i C o a s t i n M a i o r i , I w a s reminded of this Neapolitan delight. Before going to the beach to walk on the dark s a n d , m a d e o f g r a v e l a n d pebbles, I needed to start my d a y w i t h t h i s N e a p o l i t a n d o l c e . F o r m o s t I t a l i a n s , breakfast consists of coffee (an espresso) and a sweet, and I am no exception. Ital- ians are known to eat much less for breakfast compared to Americans. Of course, when we think o f I t a l y w e a u t o m a t i c a l l y think of the food and wine, e s p e c i a l l y t h e p i z z a Margherita in the Campania region. At the same time, I t a l i a n d o l c e i s m o r e o f a peripheral thought for visi- tors. For instance, the Amalfi Coast and the other parts of t h e C a m p a n i a r e g i o n a r e k n o w n f o r t h e b a b a , t h e d e l i z i a a l l i m o n e a n d , o f course, the sfogliatella. T h e s t a n d a r d l e a f / l a y e r sfogliatella pastry is com- mon in New York City and other Italian neighborhoods in America. O n t h e o t h e r h a n d , t h e sfogliatella Napoletana frolla, is less labor-inten- sive, but equally delicious with creamy ricotta inside. The difficulty in finding frol- la also stems from its speci- ficity. Frolla is not just any pastry; it requires a precise b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s — f l o u r , b u t t e r , s u g a r , a n d eggs—and a delicate touch in its preparation to achieve the right texture. It's crumbly and firm, making it a chal- lenging pastry to perfect. S u p p o s e d l y , t h e s f o g l i - atella was created by a group o f n u n s i n t h e c o n v e n t o f Santa Rosa in the outskirts of Naples circa the 1600s. Originally, the sfogliatella consisted of ricotta cheese, d r i e d f r u i t , a n d l i q u e u r , most likely limoncello. Like m o s t t h i n g s , t h e p a s t r y evolved, as others decided to eliminate the dried fruit and liqueur. It can be made in two ways smooth (frolla) or c u r l y , t h e l a t t e r t e x t u r e resembles a stack of leaves and is sold in most Italian bakeries across America. An interesting fact, some- times Americans mislabel the pastry and call it a lob- ster tail. I have heard this once or twice in Italian bak- eries, while also overhearing others get tongue-tied when p r o n o u n c i n g t h e n a m e . Some start by saying, "May I have a soffa… and immedi- ately stop and move on to, "I mean a sfagettell…"— Do you mean the sfogliatella? W h i l e m a n y b a k e r i e s might offer various Italian pastries, like shortbread or general tart bases, true frol- l a i s a d i f f e r e n t b e a s t , demanding both skill and tradition. From the outside, t h e o v a l - s h a p e d p a s t r y appears similar to a pastic- c i o t t o l e c c e s e a p a s t r y from Puglia. The pasticciotti leccesi and the frolla have a golden crust and are served w i t h a h i n t o f p o w d e r e d sugar. I like the frolla's soft and creamy inside. I guaran- tee the first bite will win you o v e r . U n f o r t u n a t e l y , t h e frolla is unknown to most Americans, including some Italian Americans. The lack of knowledge in this pastry impacts demand. While Italian cuisine is pop- ular in New York City, many consumers are more famil- iar with items like cannoli, tiramisù, or biscotti. Frolla, being less well-known, does- n ' t h a v e t h e s a m e w i d e - s p r e a d a p p e a l , m a k i n g i t less likely for bakeries to include it in their offerings. E v e n w i t h i n t h e I t a l i a n - American community, there h a s b e e n a s h i f t t o w a r d s more contemporary or pop- ular desserts, leading to a gradual fading of this tradi- tional pastry. For those seeking authen- tic frolla, the journey often leads them out of Manhat- tan's trendy bakeries and i n t o t h e l e s s e r - k n o w n enclaves of the outer bor- oughs. Arthur Avenue in the Bronx remains one of the few bastions where tra- ditional Italian baking tech- niques are preserved, but even there, frolla can be elu- sive. Some have turned to making it at home, learning the techniques passed down t h r o u g h g e n e r a t i o n s o r shared in online communi- ties dedicated to traditional Italian cooking. In a city where you can find almost any dish from around the world, the diffi- culty in finding something as specific as frolla high- lights the challenges of pre- serving culinary traditions. I guess it's still possible to f i n d , o r m a k e , a u t h e n t i c frolla in New York City. I have yet to discover a loca- tion that makes and serves this pastry. I will continue to be on the hunt for a frolla s o m e w h e r e i n N e w Y o r k City or across America. ALFONSO GUERRIERO Sfogliatelle frolle on sale (Photo courtesy of A. Guerriero Jr) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Where can I get a frolla? Sfogliatelle ricce are more common and easier to find (Photo: Enzodebe/Dreamstime)

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