L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano W h e n i t comes to i c o n i c I t a l i a n p a s t r i e s , the cannoncino may not receive the same internation- a l f a m e a s i t s s o u t h e r n cousin, the Sicilian cannolo, but it is no less deserving of recognition. This delicate, cream-filled puff pastry treat, o r i g i n a l t o t h e n o r t h e r n region of Piedmont, holds a special place in Italy's rich culinary history. Like many traditional pastries, the can- noncino has a story steeped in both local customs and c e n t u r i e s o f c u l t u r a l exchanges across Europe. T h e c a n n o n c i n o a s w e know it today was born in the e l e g a n t p a s t r y s h o p s o f Turin during the second half of the 19th century: this was a period when Italy was estab- lishing its cultural and politi- cal identity, and Piedmont, with its proximity to France a n d t h e r e s t o f E u r o p e , became a crossroads of influ- ences. Turin, the capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia and the birthplace of the Italian unification movement, was known for its cosmopolitan charm and thriving café cul- ture. Though many pastry shops in the city lay claim to the invention of the cannoncino, its true origins remain a mat- ter of debate; what is certain is that this delicate pastry— characterized by its crisp, flaky shell and rich, creamy filling—became a staple of pasticcerie (pastry shops) d u r i n g t h e B e l l e É p o q u e , when small, bite-sized con- fections, known as mignons, w e r e a l l t h e r a g e . A m o n g them, the cannoncino stood out for its elegant form and decadent fillings, especially custard and zabaglione, with the latter having a pretty interesting history of its own. Z a b a g l i o n e i s a r i c h , frothy custard made from egg yolks, sugar, and wine (usual- ly Marsala), whose origins a r e s t e e p e d i n l e g e n d . I n P i e d m o n t , i n p a r t i c u l a r , zabaglione is said to have been introduced by a Francis- can friar named Pasquale di Baylon in the mid-1500s. According to the story, di Baylon, who was stationed in T u r i n , s u g g e s t e d t o l o c a l women that they prepare a nourishing cream made from egg yolks, sugar, and wine to r e s t o r e t h e i r h u s b a n d s ' strength. This "potion," ini- tially intended to revive tired men, evolved into the dessert we now know as zabaglione and, over time, it became a beloved filling for the can- noncino and other Piedmon- tese pastries. In fact, the con- nection between di Baylon and the dessert was so strong that when the friar was can- onized in 1722, he was named the patron saint of pastry chefs, and the dish took on the local dialect name san- bajòn (Saint Baylon), from w h i c h t h e I t a l i a n "zabaglione" comes. And if zabaglione has a somewhat colorful history, cannoncini's puff pastry base is the essence of Euro- pean arte pasticcera and was already well-established in mid-1800s. The origins of puff pastry, or pâte feuilletée, t r a c e b a c k t o t h e M i d d l e Ages, with the earliest ver- sions of this dough appearing in Mediterranean and Arabic cooking, where thin sheets of dough were layered with oil. However, it was in France during the 1600s that puff pastry as we know it today t o o k s h a p e : F r a n ç o i s Pierre de la Varenne, the French chef credited with creating the modern method, used butter instead of oil, folding it into dough to create puff pastry's signature flaky layers. The method was then refined further by the famed Marie-Antoine Carême, a towering figure in the world of pastry. Let us return, now, to our cannoncino, which, while firmly rooted in Piedmontese tradition, also has parallels in other parts of Europe. In the Czech Republic and Hungary, for example, a pastry known as trdelník is quite similar, f e a t u r i n g a r o l l e d d o u g h cooked on a spit and often filled with sweet cream. In Austria and Germany, the Shaumrollen is a Christ- mas favorite, resembling the c a n n o n c i n o i n s h a p e b u t often filled with whipped cream. Even in Russia, the trubochki, a pastry with a crisp exterior and creamy fill- ing, shares a common ances- t r y w i t h t h e c a n n o n c i n o , while the English c r e a m horn and the French cornet à la crème both show that the idea of a sweet, cream- filled pastry roll always had a wide appeal across the Euro- pean continent. I n t h e p o s t - w a r e r a , a s Italy rebuilt its economy and i d e n t i t y , t h e c a n n o n c i n o became an increasingly popu- lar treat, both for special o c c a s i o n s a n d e v e r y d a y indulgence. The pastry adapt- e d w e l l t o c o n t e m p o r a r y tastes, with modern varia- tions including fillings like hazelnut cream, lemon curd, and even more innovative i n g r e d i e n t s l i k e s a l t e d caramel or coffee mousse. Pastry shops across Italy, especially in the northern regions, continue to serve cannoncini, typically as part of a Sunday tradition where families visit their local pas- ticceria to pick up an assort- m e n t o f s m a l l p a s t r i e s , including bigné, sfogliatelle, and of course, cannoncini. They remain so popular that there are bakeries uniquely dedicated to them, just like P a s t i c c e r i a S e r g e i n Milan, which offers a variety of flavors and keeps the pas- tries warm and fresh for cus- tomers to enjoy at any time of day. The cannoncino may look humble, but its history is one of cross-cultural influence and continued popularity, as rich and layered as the pastry itself. Today, this beloved t r e a t r e m a i n s a d e l i c i o u s symbol of the creativity and craftsmanship of European pastry traditions, and contin- ues to delight us every time we are looking for a small, yet decadent, treat. So, next time you bite into a perfectly crisp a n d c r e a m y c a n n o n c i n o , remember that you're not just enjoying a delicious dessert— you're also taking part in a culinary trip that spans cen- turies, nations, and tradi- tions. FRANCESCA BEZZONE Cannoncini are commonly known in their homeland of Piemonte as cannoli. (Photo: Cristina Alexe/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Cannoncino: the Piedmontese pastry with a European twist

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