L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano P a s t a a l l a P a p a l i n a is a q u i n t e s s e n t i a l Roman dish, full of tradition and with very aristocratic ori- gins. Though not as univer- sally known as some of its m o r e p o p u l a r R o m a n cousins, like carbonara or c a c i o e p e p e , p a s t a a l l a Papalina has a special his- torical significance, as we are about to discover. The dish is quite modern, as its origin can be traced back to the mid-20th centu- ry, when Pope Pius XII, b o r n E u g e n i o P a c e l l i , r e q u e s t e d a r e f i n e d a n d m o r e d e l i c a t e v e r s i o n o f Rome's beloved carbonara. As we are about to see, the story sets the tone for a dish a b l e t o b l e n d h i g h - e n d i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h a f l a v o r that could make happy all taste buds. So… legends have it that, in the 1950s, with spaghetti alla carbonara gaining pop- ularity in post-war Rome, Pope Pius XII asked his Vat- ican chef to create a varia- tion that was less rustic and more suited to the refined palates of his foreign digni- taries. The result was pasta alla Papalina, a dish that swaps the boldness of guan- ciale for prosciutto crudo, t h e p u n c h o f p e c o r i n o romano for the smoother parmigiano-reggiano, and the strong flavor of garlic for milder onion sautéed in but- ter. Egg yolk was used to create a velvety sauce with- out the heaviness of tradi- tional cream-based concoc- tions, and fettuccine became the noodle-of-choice for the new dish. Though this narrative is w i d e l y a c c e p t e d , a n o t h e r version of the story credits C e s a r e t t o S i m m i , t h e owner of the famous Ris- torante del Colonnato near Vatican City for the cre- ation of Papalina. Again, it involves Pope Pacelli who, back in the mid-1930s, fre- quented Simmi's restaurant a n d r e q u e s t e d a " s p e c i a l pasta" to impress foreign guests. Regardless of which the real version is, pasta alla Papalina became a favorite in the capital, appearing in the menus of Roman osterie throughout neighborhoods like Trastevere and Testac- cio. When it comes to ingredi- ents, they are, overall, sim- ple but the adaptability of Papalina's led to various i n t e r p r e t a t i o n s o v e r t h e years. The core components remain prosciutto crudo, onion, butter, egg yolk, and p a r m i g i a n o - r e g g i a n o . However, over time, pro- sciutto cotto has also been used when seeking a milder flavor, and cream has been a d d e d t o e n h a n c e t h e sauce's texture. Some mod- e r n i n t e r p r e t a t i o n s e v e n incorporate peas or mush- rooms, although these varia- tions depart from the origi- n a l r e c i p e ' s r e f i n e d simplicity. Of course, debates contin- ue about whether cream is a necessary addition or not: many culinary purists reject it, insisting that the creamy texture should come solely from the egg yolk and but- ter. Others, however, appre- ciate the richer sauce that cream offers. As with any traditional Italian recipe, pasta alla Papalina allows room for creativity while still holding true to its roots, with many chefs and home cooks exper- i m e n t i n g w i t h d i f f e r e n t types of pasta, for instance moving from traditional fet- tuccine to paglia e fieno, a combination of spinach and regular noodles. I n t h e e n d , t h e k e y t o a p p r e c i a t i n g p a s t a a l l a Papalina lies in its origins as a refined, aristocratic dish, able to bring together earthy and delicate flavors; while the exact recipe may differ f r o m t a b l e t o t a b l e , i t s essence remains that of a dish created to satisfy both the palate and the soul, with a tad of elegance and a nod to Rome's rich and heart- warming culinary roots. It is true that Papalina never quite reached the pop- ularity heights of carbonara a n d a m a t r i c i a n a , y e t , i t d e s e r v e s a p l a c e i n t h e canon of Italian gastronomy because, as we often like to recount in these very pages, it well represents the inge- nuity of our chefs, especially when tasked to put together something special without much time in their hands! If you want to try this his- t o r i c d i s h , h e r e ' s a b a s i c recipe: I n g r e d i e n t s ( f o r 4 people): 14 oz fettuccine (prefer- ably egg-based) 5 oz prosciutto crudo (or prosciutto cotto for a milder flavor) 1 s m a l l o n i o n , f i n e l y chopped 3 egg yolks 3.5 oz parmigiano-reg- giano, grated 2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper to taste Optional: peas or cream for a richer version Instructions: C o o k t h e f e t t u c c i n e i n salted boiling water until al dente. In a large pan, melt the b u t t e r o v e r l o w h e a t a n d sauté the onion until soft and translucent. Add the prosciutto and c o o k f o r a f e w m i n u t e s , allowing the flavors to meld. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks and mix in the parmigiano-reggiano. Drain the pasta, reserving a bit of the cooking water. Toss the hot pasta into the pan with the prosciutto and onion. R e m o v e t h e p a n f r o m heat and quickly stir in the egg yolk mixture, allowing the residual heat from the pasta to cook the eggs with- out scrambling them. Add a b i t o f t h e r e s e r v e d p a s t a water if needed to achieve a creamy consistency. Season with salt and pep- per, and garnish with addi- tional cheese if desired. Serve immediately and enjoy a taste of… papal tra- dition! Debates about its ingredi- e n t s m a y c o n t i n u e , b u t pasta alla Papalina remains a dish worth trying and cele- brating: it's simple, elegant and historic, exactly what you'd expect from a plate of pasta fit for a pope! GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Some add also peas to the original Papalina recipe (Photo: Luca Santilli/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Pasta alla Papalina, a dish "made in Vaticano"

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