L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 12, 2024 www.italoamericano.org 10 L'Italo-Americano ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES between Catania and Messi- na. During the Greek and Roman eras, it served as the c i t y ' s a c r o p o l i s a n d w a s called the Rocca del Tauro. A secondary acropolis, locat- ed higher up, was the Castle of Mola, later known as the c a s t r u m s u p e r i u s ( u p p e r castle), while the fortress b e l o w w a s t h e c a s t r u m inferius (lower castle). I n 1 1 3 4 , t h e c i t y c a m e u n d e r t h e c o n t r o l o f t h e Monastery of San Salvatore della Placa, near Francavilla di Sicilia. During the reign of Frederick II of Swabia— known as stupor mundi for his political, military, and c u l t u r a l p r o w e s s — t h e fortress was entrusted to a n o b l e c a s t e l l a n . O v e r t h e centuries, like much of Sici- ly, it changed hands, moving from the Aragonese to the Spanish. Getting to the castle, built between the 11th and 12th centuries during the height of the Arab-Norman period, i n v o l v e s a s c e n i c r o u t e . S t a r t i n g a t t h e c h a r m i n g M a d o n n a d e l l a R o c c a C h a p e l , v i s i t o r s c l i m b a s t a i r c a s e c a r v e d i n t o t h e rock, leading to a forepart guarded by a walkway hid- d e n b e h i n d t h e c a s t l e ' s crenellated walls. This path- way eventually reaches the entrance gate. The Madonna della Rocca Chapel, built around 1640 by the Abbot Francesco Raineri with the support of Arch- bishop Geronimo Venero of Messina, incorporates the natural cave-like formation of the rock into its design. Its ceiling partly consists of the raw, living stone known as pietra di Taormina, adding to its distinctive character. The castle itself is trape - z o i d a l i n s h a p e a n d w a s designed from its inception as a watchtower and lookout post. While its outer walls still stand over four meters high, much of its interior has c r u m b l e d o v e r t i m e . Remarkably, some features have survived the centuries, including a cistern used for c o l l e c t i n g r a i n w a t e r , a n underground corridor once utilized for storing provi- sions and weapons, and a employed what we would now call an embargo. They b l o c k e d s e a a c c e s s , s h u t d o w n t h e p o r t , a n d c o n - structed twenty-two wooden towers around the city to cut i t o f f c o m p l e t e l y . T h e fortress, now referred to as the Arab-Norman Castle and a l s o k n o w n a s t h e M o n t e Tauro Castle or Saracen Cas- tle, occupied a strategically significant position. From its vantage point, it provided a clear view of the key routes fan-shaped staircase leading to the keep of Monte Venere. Two caves within the cas- tle grounds offer a fascinat- ing glimpse into its storied past: the Saracen Armory a n d t h e P r i s o n e r ' s C a v e . A c c o r d i n g t o l e g e n d , t h e Saracen Armory served as a weapons depot. In times of s u d d e n e n e m y a t t a c k s , g u a r d s s t a t i o n e d o n t h e tower would retrieve and distribute arms stored in the cave. Another story suggests the cave doubled as a resting and sheltering place for sol- diers. Today, visitors can see l i f e - s i z e d m a n n e q u i n s dressed as an Arab warrior and a Norman knight, com- p l e t e w i t h p e r i o d a r m o r , adding an immersive ele- ment to the experience. The second cave, known as the Prisoner's Cave, tells darker tales of suffering and penitence. It is believed to h a v e b e e n u s e d t o d e t a i n captured enemies, who were chained to the walls and left there for days, awaiting their grim and uncertain fate. The purpose of this imprison- m e n t w a s n ' t m e r e l y t o deprive them of their free- dom; it was also intended to force them to reflect on their a c t i o n s i n t h e f a c e o f t h e punishment awaiting them. I n s i d e t h e c a v e , a m a n - nequin represents a prisoner in chains, offering a chilling reminder of the past. As we continue our visit, we come across the Taormi- na Castle's water well, a vital r e s o u r c e d u r i n g t i m e s o f siege. Rainwater was chan- n e l e d i n t o t h i s w e l l a n d other cisterns, which were covered with barrel vaults for protection. In the heart of the central courtyard lies t h e i n f a m o u s " W e l l o f Death." Approximately eight meters deep, it contains an u n d e r g r o u n d c h a m b e r shrouded in mystery. Leg- ends tell of prisoners, tor- tured and then thrown into the well, or of it being the final resting place for the castle's most dangerous ene- mies, left to perish in agony. According to local lore, on certain nights, the anguished cries of the condemned can still be heard. s t r u c t u r e , d a t i n g b a c k t o Byzantine times, served for centuries as a key defensive o u t p o s t a g a i n s t A r a b attacks. Despite this, the S a r a c e n s l a u n c h e d t h r e e invasions between 964 and 969, ultimately capturing t h e t o w n . I t w a s n ' t u n t i l Count Roger of Sicily liber- ated Taormina that the cas- tle began a new chapter. In 1079, when the Nor- mans laid siege to the castle t o f r e e T a o r m i n a , t h e y M a r c h 8 , 2 0 1 9 : a d a t e t o r e m e m b e r for the peo- ple of Taormina, a city in t h e p r o v i n c e o f M e s s i n a , renowned worldwide for its proximity to the enchanting Isola Bella and, above all, for i t s m a g n i f i c e n t A n c i e n t T h e a t r e . P e r c h e d b y t h e sea, the theatre is a treasure of extraordinary beauty and a v e n u e f o r c u l t u r a l a n d international events of the highest caliber. But this par- ticular date marks the revival of another gem in this "pearl of the Ionian," as Taormina is often called—the city's cas- tle. N o f a i r y t a l e s e t t i n g i s complete without the image o f a b e a u t i f u l y e t f o r l o r n p r i n c e s s i m p r i s o n e d i n a tower, awaiting a knight to rescue her. While no such princess remains to be saved here, the castle, situated on the eastern coast of Sicily just a few kilometers from Mount Etna, has found its o w n s a v i o r i n M a u r i z i o Scaglione. An entrepreneur, journalist, and publisher, Scaglione is also the CEO of Centomedia&lode srl, a Sicil- ian company specializing in territorial marketing, cultur- al heritage management, and the organization of cultural events. Thanks to his vision, the castle has been brought back to life—not for rescuing princesses, but for preserv- ing cultural heritage from the ravages of time and neglect. After winning the bid to manage and restore the cas- tle—an 11th-century Arab- Norman fortress that had been closed to visitors and left in total abandonment for n e a r l y t h r e e d e c a d e s — Scaglione's team undertook essential maintenance, safety measures, and restoration w o r k . F o l l o w i n g t h e s e e f f o r t s , t h e c a s t l e w a s reopened to the public in May 2024, allowing visitors to once again experience this historic site after a 35-year closure. T o t r u l y a p p r e c i a t e t h e castle's significance, a look at its history is essential. In 403 BCE, Greek colonists who s u r v i v e d t h e m a s s a c r e o f Naxos relocated to the slopes of a nearby hill resembling a bull in shape. From this, the n a m e T a u r o m e n i o n w a s b o r n . T h e f i r s t f o r t i f i e d TERESA DI FRESCO The ancient Castle of Taormina and its renaissance Above, a beautiful view of the Castle; below, the castle's dungeon (Photos courtesy of Maurizio Scaglione)

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