L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano C o f f e e i s o n e o f the world's most cherished bever- a g e s , y e t n o t m a n y k n o w i t h a s a r i c h h i s t o r y t h a t extends beyond its tradition- a l r o l e a s a d r i n k . W h i l e commonly associated with morning routines and sweet treats, coffee's applica- tion in savory cooking is both diverse and fascinating: thanks to its unique flavor profile—marked by bitter- ness, acidity, and depth—it p r o v e d t o b e a v e r s a t i l e ingredient in various culi- nary traditions. The history of coffee started in Ethiopia, where, according to legend, a goat herder named Kaldi noticed the energizing effects of cof- fee beans after his goats con- s u m e d t h e m ; b y t h e 1 5 t h century, coffee had reached Yemen, where Sufi monks used it to stay awake during long religious rituals. From there, it made its way to the Ottoman Empire, Persia, and Europe, becoming a staple in both cultural and culinary practices. Coffee's inclusion in food preparation is not a modern phenomenon, as its use in s a u c e s , s t e w s , a n d s p i c e blends has been document- ed for centuries and spans all continents.Our friends from the South, particularly those from Texas and the Carolinas, know that coffee is a staple in B B Q m e a t r u b s , w h e r e i t i s o f t e n blended with spices such as chili powder, paprika, brown s u g a r , a n d s a l t t o a d d umami to brisket, ribs, and pork. The acidity of the cof- fee acts as a natural tender- izer, breaking down meat fibers, while its deep flavor contributes to a rich, smoky c r u s t d u r i n g g r i l l i n g o r smoking. Some pit masters even brew strong coffee and use it as a basting liquid for slow-cooked meats! S o u t h A m e r i c a n cuisines also embrace cof- fee in meat preparations: in Brazil, for instance, strong brewed coffee is combined w i t h g a r l i c , o n i o n s , a n d vinegar to marinate beef and add a savory depth that per- fectly complements Brazil's churrasco traditions. The meat is then grilled over an open flame, allowing the cof- fee's caramelization proper- ties to create a slightly sweet and smoky crust. Similarly, in Argentina, coffee-based marinades are used in asa- dos, where it helps create a caramelized, aromatic crust on grilled meats, enhancing their flavor profile. Argen- tine chefs, sometimes, also mix coffee with red wine, black pepper, and bay leaves to create a rich sauce usually served alongside beef cuts such as ribeye and sirloin. The Middle East offers another perspective on cof- fee's role in savory dishes: in Yemen, for example, it is s o m e t i m e s i n f u s e d i n t o braised meat dishes to give them a deep, roasted aroma that pairs well with spices like cardamom, cinnamon, a n d c u m i n . T h i s p r a c t i c e adds an earthy richness to s l o w - c o o k e d l a m b a n d stews, and shows coffee's ability to enhance and bal- ance complex spice profiles. Yemeni chefs have also been known to mix coffee with ghee and slow-cook it with m e a t s t o c r e a t e c o m p l e x , aromatic dishes. In some T u r k i s h a n d P e r s i a n recipes, coffee grounds are m i x e d w i t h s u m a c a n d coriander to create dry rubs for lamb and poultry. Let us fly back to the New World, more precisely, to Mexico, where certain vari- ations of mole sauce incor- porate coffee as a key ingre- dient. Mole, as many of you probably know, is a blend of c h i l i p e p p e r s , c h o c o l a t e , nuts, and spices, where cof- fee can be used to amplify its r i c h a n d s l i g h t l y b i t t e r undertones. Certainly, its presence deepens the sauce's flavor and provides a pleas- a n t b a l a n c e t h a t c o m p l e - ments the heat of the chilies and the mild sweetness of the chocolate. Traditional mole recipes vary by region, and some versions include espresso or finely ground c o f f e e b e a n s t o c r e a t e a n e v e n m o r e l a y e r e d a n d intense flavor: in Oaxaca, for example, coffee-infused mole is served with turkey, chicken, or roasted plan- tains. We've been talking a lot about meat and coffee, but what about fish? Well, it can be used with that, too. Chefs in various culinary traditions like to experiment with cof- fee-based marinades for fish like salmon and tuna: when combined with ingredients such as citrus, ginger, or soy sauce, coffee adds a subtle depth that enhances the nat- ural flavors of the seafood without overpowering them. In some Caribbean dish- es, for instance, it is blended with rum and honey to make a marinade for grilled fish, perfect to achieve a slightly smoky and caramelized fin- i s h . O t h e r c o n t e m p o r a r y c h e f s h a v e u s e d f i n e l y ground coffee to crust fish fillets before pan-searing them to add a slight crunch and some bitterness. And because contempo- rary culinary practices are all about sustainability, don't be surprised if some novel uses of coffee in the k i t c h e n a r e a l l a b o u t t h e concept of "zero waste." Used coffee grounds have been incorporated into spice rubs, blended into bread or pasta doughs for a hint of bitterness, or used to add a r o a s t e d d e p t h t o s t o c k s . Some experimental kitchens even utilize coffee grounds in fermented sauces or as components in plant-based dishes to mimic the flavor profile of meat-based dishes. Curiously, coffee grounds a r e a l s o u s e d i n g o u r m e t mushroom cultivation, with chefs using coffee-enriched fungi as a sustainable meat alternative. Now, that's what I call a versatile ingredient! W h i l e c o f f e e ' s r o l e i n desserts and beverages is well-established thanks to classics like tiramisù, opera cake, and affogato, as well as drinks like Vietnamese salt- ed coffee and the ubiquitous espresso, its application in savory cooking continues to evolve. What we ultimately learn from its varied uses in the kitchen is how versatile it is, and how easily it can be used to enhance and balance flavors. That's why we can r e a l l y s a y t h e r e i s m u c h more to coffee than what we drink in the morning! CHIARA D'ALESSIO Coffee is often used as a marinade for meats, or as a rub when ground (Photo: Jennifer Pitiquen/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES OPEN 8AM - 5PM MONDAY TO SATURDAY. SUNDAY CLOSED Coffee in the kitchen: the unexpected role of our favorite brew as a culinary ingredient

• Cover