L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 1, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano I n the eastern part of Sicily, south of Cata- n i a a n d n o r t h o f R a g u s a , l i e s S y r a - cuse — the capital of its namesake province and a city steeped in centuries of history and culture. It's also t h e b i r t h p l a c e o f A r c h i m e d e s , t h e f a m e d mathematician, physicist, and inventor. Among the many stories associated with him is the invention of war machines that helped Syracuse with- stand a Roman siege in 212 BC. Today, the city's Greek T h e a t e r a n d R o m a n Amphitheater are must- sees for visitors. They are cor- nerstones of a rich cultural experience that also includes the ancient stone quarries, the f a m o u s E a r o f D i o n y s i u s , papyrus plants, the spring of Arethusa, and the miracle of Saint Lucy. But let's take it step by step. The National Institute for Ancient Drama (INDA) was officially recognized as a public institution in 1978, described as "essential to the country's social, civil, eco- nomic, and cultural develop- ment." It was led for many years by Giusto Monaco, a c l a s s i c a l p h i l o l o g i s t a n d e x p e r t i n b o t h L a t i n a n d Greek. In 1998, INDA transi- tioned from a public entity to a foundation, and by 2000 its c l a s s i c a l p e r f o r m a n c e s became an annual tradition instead of a biennial one. Enthusiasts from all over the world have long gathered in S y r a c u s e f o r t h e f e s t i v a l , which significantly boosts cul- tural tourism in the city each year. The Greek tragedies and comedies are staged between late May and early June — this year, for the festival's 60th season, from May 9 to July 6. It's also a chance to visit the latomies, ancient quar- ries once used not only for extracting stone but also as prisons. Athenian soldiers were held there after their failed attack on Syracuse. The latomies, scorching in sum- mer and icy in winter, were so deep that escape was impossi- ble; many prisoners died from hunger and hardship. Their reputation for security was such that captives from other p a r t s o f S i c i l y w e r e a l s o d e t a i n e d t h e r e , a s C i c e r o r e c o u n t s i n t h e V e r r i n e Orations against Verres, written in 70 BC. Among these latomies — p a r t o f t h e N e a p o l i s A r c h a e o l o g i c a l P a r k , which also includes the Greek T h e a t r e a n d t h e A l t a r o f H i e r o a n d s p a n s s o m e 200,000 square meters — the most famous is the Latomia del Paradiso, home to the Ear of Dionysius. This nat- ural sound amplifier, accord- ing to legend, was used by Dionysius, the tyrant of Syra- cuse, to eavesdrop on his prisoners, listening in on any conspiracies whispered in the dark. O n t h e s m a l l i s l a n d o f Ortigia, the original nucleus and historic heart of Syra- cuse, lies the Fonte Aretusa — a millennia-old freshwater spring fed by an underground aquifer that also supplies the nearby Ciane River. Accord- ing to legend, Arethusa, one of Artemis's nymphs, was s w i m m i n g i n t h e r i v e r Alpheus when the river god noticed her and, enamored, appeared in human form, frightening her. To protect her from his pursuit, Artemis transformed Arethusa into a spring. But Alpheus, resum- ing his natural form, opened the earth and caused her to sink beneath it. The spring resurfaced in Syracuse, where its waters mingled with those of Alpheus, who had followed her. Even today, the spring can be admired, its surface dotted with papyrus plants that evoke the ancient Egypt- ian civilization. The city of Syracuse is also home to the Sanctuary of t h e M a d o n n a o f t h e Tears, built in memory of the miracle of a plaster statue depicting the Immaculate Heart of Mary. In 1953, it was said to have shed tears, draw- ing thousands of faithful pil- grims from across Italy and beyond. As in many parts of Sicily, this area is home to sites rec- o g n i z e d b y U N E S C O a s World Heritage. Granted i n 2 0 0 5 , t h e d e s i g n a t i o n includes the rock-cut necrop- olises of Pantalica, the island of Ortigia, the Greek Theater, the Roman Amphitheater, and the Ear of Dionysius — acknowledged for their "out- standing historical, archaeo- logical, speleological, and landscape value." These trea- sures span a vast timeline, f r o m G r e e k a n d R o m a n antiquity to prehistoric burial grounds. The Pantalica necropo- lis, located in the Sortino area, contains over 5,000 tombs distributed across at least six distinct burial sites. In addition to their UNESCO status, they offer an emotion- ally powerful glimpse into a distant past that belongs not only to the local territory but to human history itself. The entire settlement of Pantali- ca, including the necropolis, was eventually abandoned as Syracuse's influence expand- ed, only to be repopulated during the Byzantine period. At that time, some of the tombs were modified into dwellings, forming small cave villages. Others were trans- formed into churches or ora- t o r i e s . B u t o n c e t h a t e r a ended, Pantalica faded into obscurity once again. At this point, it's fitting to quote a passage from The Stones of Pantalica by Sicilian writer Vincenzo C o n s o l o , i n w h i c h t h e plateau becomes a metaphor for the human journey: "We arrived at Pantalica, t h e a n c i e n t H y b l a . W e climbed goat paths, entered the tombs of the necropolis, the cave dwellings, the sanc- tuaries carved into the steep walls of rock overlooking the waters of the Anapo. The old man spoke continuously, telling me of his life, of child- hood and youth spent in that place. He spoke of herbs and animals, of the snakes of the Anapo, and of a huge serpent — the biddina — a mythical dragon, seen by few, that e n t r a n c e s a n d s w a l l o w s men, donkeys, sheep, and goats." T h e f i n a l s t o p o n o u r imaginary visit to the city takes us to the far tip of Orti- gia, where Castello Mani- ace stands. Built as a defen- sive outpost against Saracen attacks, the castle was com- missioned by Frederick II of S w a b i a a n d c o n s t r u c t e d between 1232 and 1239. It was later converted into a prison by the Spanish. The building has a square layout, s u r r o u n d e d b y a m a s s i v e perimeter wall; at each of its four corners stands a round tower. Inside, the main hall was originally covered by 24 vaulted ceilings, symbolizing the 24 kingdoms of Frederick II, with a central twenty-fifth vault representing the King- dom of Sicily. Syracuse is home to count- less monuments, churches, and museums that add to the beauty of its piazzas, alley- ways, and the many restau- rants where visitors can enjoy outstanding local cuisine. The flavors take nothing away from the solemnity of its his- tory or the magic that perme- ates every corner of this city — where echoes of ancient Greece and traces of prehisto- ry coexist with a warm, mod- ern atmosphere. From this fusion springs an unrelenting breath of culture, ever-pre- sent and ever-inspiring. TERESA DI FRESCO Syracuse: from prehistoric rock-cut tombs to classical theater The lighthouse over Castello Maniace, on Ortigia Island (Photo: Bernard Bialorucki/Dreamstime). Bottom left, a view of the castle (Photo: Bernard Bialorucki/Dreamstime) ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS PEOPLE ACTIVITIES

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