L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 15, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano C avatelli hold a special place in the heart of many s o u t h e r n I t a l - ians: among the many pasta shapes hailing from our sunnier regions, they are definitely one of the best loved. R e c o g n i z a b l e b y t h e i r small, shell-like form with a gentle groove, they are made from just two ingredients, semolina flour and water, but they have such a long story to tell! A story made of regional traditions, festive meals and heartwarming home cooking. The name cavatelli comes from the Italian verb cavare, meaning "to hollow out" or "to carve," referring to the technique used to shape the pasta: each piece is hand- r o l l e d a n d t h e n g e n t l y dragged across a board or pressed with the thumb to create the indentation. The resulting shape is perfect for catching sauce, which is why this pasta is so often served with rich, bold sauces. Though closely associated t o d a y w i t h M o l i s e a n d Puglia, cavatelli is a pasta of the broader southern and central Italian tradition, with variants existing under differ- e n t d i a l e c t a l n a m e s – c a v a t i e l l e , c a v a t e d d h i , cavateddi – in regions like Basilicata, Campania, Cal- abria, and parts of Sicily. His- torical references place their use as far back as the Middle Ages in Molise, as attested by records of rural feasts and family celebrations. Unlike egg-based pastas common in the North, cavatelli belongs to the cucina povera heritage, where semolina and water made up the daily staples of many southern households. T h e d o u g h i s t y p i c a l l y m a d e w i t h d u r u m w h e a t semolina, which gives the pasta its signature bite and durability; some variations, especially in home kitchens, include a spoonful of olive oil, or in more festive settings, the addition of ricotta cheese for a more delicate flavor. The key, however, remains the simplicity of the ingredients and the patience needed to make each cavatello by hand. Cavatelli are very adapt- able: each region – and often each town – pair them with local ingredients according to s e a s o n a n d c u s t o m . I n Molise, it's common to find cavatelli served with a rich pork ragù, especially during holidays and family gather- ings; in Campobasso, sausage and tomato sauce is a staple condiment. In Puglia, partic- ularly around Bari, cavatelli con le cime di rapa is iconic: the bitter greens are sautéed with garlic, olive oil, and anchovies to make a sharp, earthy sauce. Basilicata pairs them with peperoni cruschi – fried sweet, dried peppers – a n d a s c a t t e r i n g o f l o c a l cheese. In Calabria, varia- tions might include turnip g r e e n s o r s p i c y s a u s a g e . There is also a vegetarian classic that is common across the south: cavatelli con fagi- oli, a hearty concoction of pasta with white beans, gar- lic, and olive oil. But among the simplest and most elegant prepara- t i o n s i s c a v a t e l l i a l pomodoro con ricotta salata, cavatelli served with a bright tomato sauce and finished with shavings of aged ricotta. It is, perhaps, this version that best represents the sim- plicity and beauty of south- ern home cooking. How to make cavatelli with tomato sauce and ricotta salata For the pasta: 400 grams (about 3 1/3 cups) semolina rimacinata (durum wheat flour) 2 0 0 m l ( a b o u t 7 f l o z ) lukewarm water A pinch of salt Method: Pour the semolina onto a clean work surface and make a well in the center. Add the salt and begin to p o u r i n t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , incorporating the flour with a fork or your fingers. Knead for about 10 min- u t e s , u n t i l t h e d o u g h becomes smooth and elastic. If it feels too dry, add a few drops of water; if too sticky, a dusting of flour. Cover the dough with a clean cloth and let it rest for at least 30 minutes. Cut the dough into pieces and roll each piece into long ropes about the thickness of your little finger. Cut the ropes into 2 cm (¾ inch) pieces. U s i n g y o u r t h u m b o r a knife, press and drag each piece toward you to form the classic indentation. It should resemble a small canoe or shell. Let the cavatelli rest on a floured tray while you pre- pare the sauce. For the sauce: 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 s m a l l o n i o n , f i n e l y chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 bottle (700 ml) passata or 1 large can (28 oz) crushed tomatoes Salt and black pepper to taste A handful of fresh basil leaves 80–100 g (3–4 oz) ricotta salata, grated or shaved Method: Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion a n d s a u t é g e n t l y u n t i l translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Add the tomato passata or crushed tomatoes and stir well. Season with salt and pep- per, lower the heat, and let the sauce simmer uncovered for 20–30 minutes, stirring occasionally. I n t h e f i n a l m i n u t e s o f cooking, add the torn basil leaves. To finish: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the cavatelli until they float to the surface and are tender—about 4–6 min- utes if fresh. Drain and transfer them d i r e c t l y i n t o t h e t o m a t o sauce. S t i r g e n t l y t o c o a t t h e pasta, then divide into serv- ing plates. Top generously with grat- ed or shaved ricotta salata and serve immediately. W h i l e y o u c a n f i n d cavatelli sold in supermar- kets, there is something spe- cial about making them by hand, as there is in making anything from scratch, really. When we are in the kitchen with friends and family, sur- rounded by pots, plates, and the sounds of a busy kitchen, we may be making dinner, but we also make memories. And nothing is quite as beautiful as that! GIULIA FRANCESCHINI Cavatelli and broccoletti (Photo: Ezumeimages/Dreamstime) Cavatelli: the soulful, handcrafted pasta at the heart of southern Italy's cuisine LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES

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