L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano T rofie may not be the first shape of pasta that comes to mind outside of Italy, but for Ligurians, it is a culinary symbol of their very identi- ty.Traditionally associated with the Riviera di Lev- ante, particularly the area around Genoa and the Golfo del Paradiso, trofie are short, thin pasta curls, each one rolled by hand, deeply connected to the story of Lig- u r i a ' s f o o d c u l t u r e , o n e shaped by simple ingredi- ents, ingenuity, and the idea t h a t n o t h i n g c o u l d g o t o waste. Their origins are difficult to trace with precision: some historians believe the name may derive from the Ligurian word strufuggiâ, meaning "to rub," a reference to the pasta's hand-rolling process, while others connect it to the G r e e k t r o p h e , m e a n i n g "nourishment." But, if the etymology of their name may be a tad mysterious, we know for certain that trofie have existed for centuries in fami- lies' kitchens, way before they became a staple in many Ligurian restaurants: they were once made by women who gathered on doorsteps, chatting and rolling dough into small ropes, then rub- b i n g e a c h p i e c e b e t w e e n t h e i r p a l m s o r a g a i n s t a wooden board to give them t h e i r d i s t i n c t i v e " t w i s t y " look. Unlike other types of pas- tas that rely on eggs, trofie are made with just durum wheat semolina and water, a choice dictated as much by economic limitations as by the very natural characteris- tics of a region that is, in its essence, a steep and narrow slice of earth between the mountains and the sea. This challenging environment his- torically didn't lend itself to l a r g e - s c a l e a g r i c u l t u r e , including the raising of hens for eggs, which would have required more open, arable land. Wheat, however, was a staple commodity that could b e e a s i l y a n d e f f i c i e n t l y transported by sea, a crucial advantage for a maritime r e g i o n l i k e L i g u r i a . T h i s m e a n t t h a t h i g h - q u a l i t y durum wheat semolina, even if not grown locally in abun- dance, was readily accessible t h r o u g h t r a d e n e t w o r k s , ensuring a consistent and affordable supply for pasta making. Today, when we talk about trofie, we, more often than n o t , a s s o c i a t e t h e m w i t h pesto, the sauce that is per- haps Liguria's most recog- nized culinary contribution, as basil, its core ingredient, thrives in the region's tem- perate coastal microclimate. To be fair, the combination b e t w e e n t h e t w o i s q u i t e heavenly, because the spirals of trofie hold the pesto in their crevices, offering the perfect vehicle for the sauce's punchy mix of garlic, pine nuts, Pecorino (or Parmi- giano!), and olive oil. The addition of potatoes or string beans (sometimes both) and a spoonful of pasta water to emulsify the sauce just before serving truly makes trofie al pesto one of the most satisfy- ing primi out there. But pesto isn't the only companion trofie can boast about. For instance, in Lig- u r i a n c o a s t a l t o w n s l i k e Camogli and Recco, varia- tions with seafood are com- mon: mussels, clams, and squid are often tossed with t r o f i e a n d a l i g h t t o m a t o sauce or white wine reduc- tion. Inland, cooks may opt for walnut sauce (salsa di noci), another traditional Ligurian preparation made with crushed walnuts, milk- soaked bread, garlic, and o l i v e o i l . A s y o u c a n s e e , trofie are just perfect for h e a v i e r , r i c h e r s a u c e s , because of their shape and their characteristically rich texture. An extra oomph is o f t e n a c h i e v e d b y a d d i n g some chestnut flour to their dough, which makes them even more wholesome and rustic. Handmade trofie are still a point of pride in Liguria, but machine-made versions are now widely available, with dried trofie commonly f o u n d i n s u p e r m a r k e t s a c r o s s I t a l y a n d a b r o a d . T h a n k s t o i t , t h e y h a v e b e c o m e m o r e a c c e s s i b l e , though purists often insist on the handmade kind for its irregular surface and firmer bite. In towns like Sori, near Genoa, trofie festivals contin- ue to celebrate hand-made trofie and the labor-intensive craft of making them from scratch. In recent years, Liguria's r egional gover nment and culinary organizations have made efforts to preserve the tradition of trofie as part of Italy's broader campaign to safeguard intangible cultural heritage; the pasta's status is c l o s e l y t i e d t o t h e S l o w Food movement, which has long championed local, artisanal production against the rise of industrial food. A n d d o n ' t f o r g e t t h a t , despite their humble ingredi- ents, trofie is not a pasta to r ush: the shape demands time and attention, whether to be rolled by hand or to be cooked properly and pre- serve its texture. Likewise, the sauces it is paired with reward patience and care, as Ligurian cuisine as a whole is not known for cutting cor- n e r s w h e n i t c o m e s t o preparing the perfect food. Trofie really embody this philosophy. If you are in Liguria and decide to try trofie, remem- ber: you're not simply enjoy- ing a local specialty, but a lit- tle masterpiece of patience and time, of simplicity and history. Traditional hand-rolled trofie pasta (Serves 4) Ingredients: 2 ⅔ cups semolina flour (about 400 g) ¾ to 1 cup warm water (about 200–250 ml) A pinch of salt Instructions: Pour the semolina flour onto a clean work surface and form a well in the centre. Add a pinch of salt. Gradual- ly pour in the warm water while mixing with your fin- gers or a fork until a dough starts to form. Knead the dough for about 10 minutes until it becomes smooth, firm, and elastic. If it f e e l s t o o d r y , a d d a l i t t l e more water, a teaspoon at a time. If too sticky, dust light- ly with more semolina. Cover the dough with a clean towel or wrap and let it rest for 30 minutes at room tempera- ture. Once rested, cut off small portions of dough and roll them into thin ropes, about ¼ inch (0.5–0.7 cm) thick. T h e n , c u t e a c h r o p e i n t o pieces around 1½ inches (4 cm) long. Take each piece and roll it quickly under your palm or with the back of your hand, using a gentle pressure to twist it into the traditional trofie shape. Place the finished trofie on a tray dusted with semolina or flour to prevent sticking. To cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the trofie and cook for 4 to 6 minutes, or until they float to the surface and are tender but still slightly firm to the bite. Drain and serve imme- diately, traditionally with fresh basil pesto. FRANCESCA BEZZONE A plate of handmade trofie with pesto (Photo: Pamela Panella/Dreamstime) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Trofie, pesto … and patience: Liguria on a plate

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