L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 26 L'Italo-Americano B r o n t e s i t s o n t h e w e s t e r n slopes of Mount E t n a , i n t h e p r o v i n c e o f Catania, together with Adra- n o a n d B i a n c a v i l l a . H e r e grows a nut with a unique i d e n t i t y : t h e P i s t a c c h i o Verde di Bronte, awarded PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status by the Euro- pean Union in 2010. With its strong aroma and emerald- green kernel, this is by no means your "common" pista- chio: it is cultivated almost entirely by hand on volcanic terraces, and its flavor makes it one of the most sought- after ingredients around the country. A bit of history Pistachios have been part of the Mediterranean for cen- turies, but Etna became Sici- ly's pistachio hub in the 18th and 19th centuries. Orchards d e v e l o p e d o n l a v a f i e l d s where other crops failed, and the local dialect still calls the nut fastuca. The PDO pro- d u c t i o n z o n e i s t i g h t l y d e f i n e d : t h e w e s t e r n a n d south-western slopes of Etna between 400 and 900 meters above sea level, where hot, dry summers, breezy hill- sides, and porous volcanic soils create the ideal environ- ment for a tree that dislikes water-logging and tolerates drought. T h r e e f a c t o r s d e f i n e Bronte's pistachio. The first is the plant itself: the variety is known as Pistacia Vera "Napoletana," also called Bianca or Nostrale in older sources. This is a particular cultivated strain chosen for its vivid green kernels and strong aroma. The second is the way it is grown. As tra- dition requires, farmers graft this variety onto a wild rela- tive, the terebinth (Pistacia terebinthus), which has very deep roots and can survive in dry, rocky soils where domes- ticated pistachio trees would fail. This makes it perfectly suited to Etna's volcanic ter- races. The third factor is the environment. The lava-rich soil and patchwork of small, sloping plots keep yields low but give the nuts their bright color, natural sweetness, and l i n g e r i n g f l a v o r . B e c a u s e most orchards are tiny and hard to reach, machines are of little use; pruning, weed- ing, grafting, and harvesting are still carried out by hand, which further adds to the value of the crop. A two-year rhythm and careful processing Bronte pistachio follows a strict alternate-bearing c y c l e : one heavy harvest year, one rest year. Many f a r m e r s r e i n f o r c e t h i s rhythm by stripping flower buds in the "off" year, letting the tree conserve energy. As a result, the main crop typi- c a l l y c o m e s i n o d d - n u m - bered years, from late August to early October. Harvesting is manual. Nets are spread under the trees, and nuts are detached by hand or light tapping. Then, it is important to be quick, as the outer hull must be removed within a day to prevent off-flavors. Nuts are later sun-dried in Sicily's early fall air, stored in-shell, and shelled or peeled when needed. Peeling exposes the vivid green chefs prize for gelato and pastries, while unpeeled kernels, with their t h i n p u r p l e s k i n , c a r r y a more tannic edge for savory use. Modest volumes and l a b o r - i n t e n s i v e m e t h o d s explain the high prices com- pared to mass-market pista- chios. The PDO system and local economy The PDO Pistacchio Verde d i B r o n t e D O P c o v e r s Bronte, Adrano, and Bian- c a v i l l a . R u l e s s p e c i f y t h e variety, grafting onto tere- binth, production zone, and key processing steps. Only in-shell, shelled, and peeled kernels are admitted under the PDO name, with each lot c e r t i f i e d a n d t r a c e a b l e through control codes on p a c k a g i n g . H u n d r e d s o f small growers, processors, and packers form the supply chain: for many households, pistachio income is essential, and good harvests bring ben- efits across the local econo- my, from transport to hospi- tality. How to recognize the real thing and why it costs more Abroad, "Bronte-style pis- tachio" is sometimes used as a marketing label for unre- lated nuts. Authentic prod- ucts must carry the official wording Pistacchio Verde di Bronte DOP, the EU PDO l o g o , a n d a c o n t r o l c o d e . C o l o r a l o n e i s u n r e l i a b l e because shades vary with ripeness and lighting. Certi- fied semi-finished products, such as pestos or spreads, must also state the percent- age of Bronte pistachio used. Undeniably, Bronte pista- chios are more expensive than Iranian and Californian varieties, but there is a good reason for that: steep lava terraces resist machinery, trees are grafted onto wild stock by hand, and alternate bearing halves output. PDO rules further restrict area and methods, which means Bronte nuts take more care a n d w o r k f o r a r e l a t i v e l y small yield. In return, the nut is distinctive: bright green, naturally sweet, and aromat- ic without additives. For pas- try chefs and gelato makers, these qualities justify the cost. How to enjoy pistacchio di Bronte at its best Some pistachios are eaten fresh at harvest, but most are dried, shelled, and peeled. When it comes to desserts, Bronte pistachio appears in gelato, torrone, cakes, and m a r z i p a n - l i k e s w e e t s ; i n savory cooking, it flavors sausages, coats fish, enriches c h e e s e s , o r m a k e s q u i c k pesto alla brontese with oil and cheese. When cooking with it at home, chefs suggest using whole peeled kernels to garnish, chopped granella for an even coverage, and fine paste to make creams and fillings. October in Bronte The town celebrates its m o s t i m p o r t a n t p r o d u c e with the Sagra del Pistac- chio di Bronte. Every year, the town fills with people and chefs for tastings, cook- i n g d e m o s , a n d g u i d e d walks, and for introduce visi- tors to orchards, products, and local culture. For 2025, the festival runs on October 10–12 and 17–19, giving visi- tors a chance to taste, buy directly from growers, and see lava-stone terraces up close. A final checklist for buy- ers In Sicily, look for PDO labels on jars and ask which harvest year you are buying; in "off" years, kernels come from storage, which is nor- m a l i f h a n d l e d c o r r e c t l y . Abroad, prefer suppliers who state origin, harvest, and the percentage of Bronte pista- c h i o i n b l e n d s . A t h o m e , store kernels airtight and away from heat and light. If you are planning to store for long, freezing is fine; just thaw to room temperature before use. CHIARA D'ALESSIO P i s t a c c h i o d i B r o n t e , e x p l a i n e d : biennial harvest and real flavor Manually selected Bronte pistachios (Photo: Maria Aloisi/Dreamstime) LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE

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