L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, AUGUST 21, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano I f there's a sound ripe with promise, I'd have to say it's that satisfy- i n g " p o p " w h e n a hibernating wine cork begrudgingly enters the world g r a s p e d i n t h e s p i r a l o f a corkscrew. It never fails to make me smile! A perfuncto- ry sniff before uncoiling from its captor, and the faithful guardian of the vintage is t o s s e d a s i d e w i t h n a r y a thought. Have you ever experienced curiosity about that small but mighty piece of cork, other than perhaps admiring the décor stamped on its side? There's a wonderful story rich in history, patience, and arti- sanal skill behind each one of these practical keepers of the wine; our version starts on Italy's rugged, stunningly beautiful island of Sardinia. And now we touched the verge of the forest... This part of the forest consists of an unbroken mass of primitive cork trees of great size. The rugged bark, the strangely angular growth of the limbs, hung with grey lichens in f a n t a s t i c c o m b s , a n d t h e t h i c k o l i v e - g r e e n f o l i a g e almost excluding the light of heaven… (Rambles in the Islands of Corsica and Sardinia with N o t i c e s o f t h e i r H i s t o r y , Antiquities, and Present Con- dition - Thomas Forester, 1858) L o o k i n g a s i f t h e y ' d emerged from the pages of a fairy tale book, the oak groves of Gallura in northeastern Sardinia are a sight to behold. R u g g e d a n d o r g a n i c a l l y shaped, no two are alike, yet all are easily distinguished as Cork Oak – the mighty and ancient Quercus suber. Histo- rians believe these trees sur- vived the Ice Age and may date back as far as 10 million years. Pre-Roman civiliza- tions here were using cork bark to stopper their wine and oils long before oenolo- gy (the study of wines) was hip. For all their utilitarian value, the groves are still the perfect supporting cast to Sardinia's mystical lure as they reign alongside ancient pastures, vineyards, and hay fields. Cork production is indige- nous to the Mediterranean basin, including Portugal, Italy, Spain, and a few other countries. The perfect combi- nation of hot, arid summers and mild, wet winters, cou- pled with a less-than-fertile soil of perfect pH balance, suits the hardy cork oak well. While Portugal holds claim as the top producer of cork, Italy provides approximately 15,000 annual tons of cork, with 12,000 of those coming from Sardinian trees. Picturesque, yes, but also highly sustainable, cork oak is one of the world's most ecological crops. The trees g r o w i n d i g e n o u s l y w h e r e they rooted, never purpose- fully planted or confined to orchards, and are tended to s h e p h e r d - l i k e b y p r i v a t e landowners. A cork oak must mature to at least twenty-five years before it is considered for harvest; any sooner, and the tree can be irreparably damaged. The first harvest by the scorzino, a skilled har- v e s t e r , i s a l w a y s d o n e b y hand with an axe known as the piola. This is just the beginning, however, of a very lengthy process; cork farm- ing is not for the impatient! Called the demaschiatu- ra, the virgin harvest of a tree produces a somewhat gnarly, unrefined slab of cork r e f e r r e d t o a s t h e s u g - h e r o n e , a l s o c a l l e d t h e maschio (male) due to its rough state. This primes the oak bark to produce its best cork – referred to as fem- m i n i l e ( f e m a l e ) f o r i t s smooth, elastic, and more refined properties. As with a fine wine, time cannot be rushed; the second harvest for the female cork is delayed at least another nine more years. Cork harvesting, always done by hand, occurs during the warmer months of sum- mer. While driving through northern Sardinia one early fall, I noted oaks that had been recently harvested. The sight is a bit shocking at first – what happened to those trees?! After a little research, I was reassured that these mighty oaks can live 200 or m o r e y e a r s a n d h a p p i l y regenerate their utilitarian bark for the next decade's harvest. Of course, skilled labor and the correct tools are a necessity to properly strip the cork without caus- ing harm. Most cork oak can sustain healthy harvests fif- teen to eighteen times…but only every nine to ten years, mind you. From second harvest on, cork producers must practice continued patience as they guide the bark towards its p r i m e f o r m . S h e e t s o f extracted cork are stacked outside to season and dry for a m i n i m u m o f t w e l v e months, as well as to coax out the natural curvature. Next step – boiling the seasoned cork to remove impurities and tannins, enhance flexibil- ity, and further flatten each plank. Once dry, it's time to sort and begin production. Cork: it's not just for wine stoppers anymore! While the best cork is reserved for high- quality tappi per vino, less perfect sheets are formed into flooring, tiles, wallpaper, insulation, office products, sporting goods, and as a sus- t a i n a b l e a l t e r n a t i v e t o leather. Local artisans real- i z e d s o m e t i m e a g o t h a t t h i n k i n g o u t s i d e t h e b o x would help perpetuate Sar- dinia's reputation as a quality c o r k p r o d u c e r . S t e p p i n g i n s i d e a n a r t i s a n a l s h o p reveals a world of creativity… and usefulness. Shoes, purs- es, wallets, and unique cloth- ing are found alongside artis- tically carved tea sets and dishes, stationary items, fur- niture, décor, and traditional p r e s e p i (Italian nativity scenes). But back to those wine stoppers – perhaps the most romanticized of Sardinian cork products. Sixty percent of cork production is used for this purpose; a single sug- herificio (cork factory) can crank out tens of thousands in a single day. Smaller, more traditional companies still e x i s t , e m p l o y i n g a g e - o l d m e t h o d s s u c h a s h a n d - punching corks and using human noses for quality con- trol. The best cork is cut into single-piece stoppers and supplies much of the presti- gious wine industry – think Brunello, Super Tuscans, Vino Nobile in Tuscany, and Barbaresco and Barolo in Piemonte, as well as Californ- ian superstars. Wines requir- ing less aging make use of lower-quality corks. Col- mated corks made from a single piece filled in with glue and cork dust work well for medium aging, while young wines get along fine with stops made from cork "crum- b l e s " g l u e d t o g e t h e r a n d bonded with cork dust and glue. If in Sardinia, make time to appreciate the gifts of the Quercus suber by visiting the Museo del Sughero, a museum within a transfig- ured monastery in the town of Calangianus, the epicen- ter of cork production. Sever- al high-quality artisan shops can be found on the island, but if you're not near one – no worries. Throughout the island, authentic Sardinian cork souvenirs are as plenti- ful as pizza in Napoli. Next time you pop open your favorite wine, pause a moment to admire that lowly little cork with a mighty story to tell. PAULA REYNOLDS Cork tree bark. Cork is a traditional product of Sardinia. Photo: Shutterstock Uncorking Sardinia: a Journey into the island's remarkable cork industry ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

• Cover