L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano T r e i a i s a l i t t l e town on a rocky ridge above the Potenza Valley, in the province of Macerata, halfway between the Sibillini Mountains and t h e A d r i a t i c . R e c o g n i z e d among I Borghi Più Belli d ' I t a l i a , i t i s a c o m p a c t town with loads of history and beauty to show. The story of Treia begins a little below the current hill- t o p , w h e r e a n c i e n t T r e a once stood; probably found- e d b y S a b i n e s e t t l e r s a n d later integrated into Roman rule, it became a municipium in the first century BC and prospered along a secondary route of the Via Flaminia. Archaeological excavations i n t h e P o t e n z a V a l l e y revealed its urban plan, with traces of temples, baths, and a forum, as well as an unex- pected discovery: sculptures and inscriptions dedicated to the Egyptian deities Isis and Serapis, an uncommon pres- e n c e i n c e n t r a l I t a l y t h a t gives Treia a unique place in the region's archaeological record. In the early Middle Ages, the settlement moved to a higher, more defensible spur known as Montecchio, which gradually developed i n t o t h e p r e s e n t t o w n . I n 1790, Pope Pius VI rewarded its loyalty to the Papal States b y r e s t o r i n g t h e a n c i e n t name Treia and granting it city status, a gesture that symbolically reconnected the modern community with its Roman origins. The old center, enclosed by a well-preserved ring of walls punctuated by towers and gates, reveals the town's long history in its layout and architecture: the 12th-centu- ry Torre dell'Onglavina, once part of a fortress, now serves as a panoramic view- point over the hills and the A p e n n i n e p e a k s , a n d o n clear days even the Adriatic c a n b e s e e n . T h e m a i n s q u a r e , P i a z z a d e l l a Repubblica, is an elegant open space suspended on the ridge, often described as one of the finest "hanging" p i a z z a s i n t h e M a r c h e ; f r a m e d b y t h e P a l a z z o Comunale with its graceful l o g g i a , t h e n e o c l a s s i c a l façade of the Accademia Georgica, and other civic b u i l d i n g s , i t m i r r o r s t h e sense of proportion and bal- ance that defines the town. The harmonious Cathe- dral of the Annunciation was rebuilt between 1782 a n d 1 8 1 4 o n d e s i g n s b y Andrea Vici, a pupil of Van- vitelli: it follows a Greek- c r o s s p l a n s u p p o r t e d b y C o r i n t h i a n c o l u m n s a n d c o n c e a l s a l a r g e c r y p t b e n e a t h i t s m a r b l e f l o o r . Inside are works by Vincen- zo Pagani and a bust of Pope Sixtus V. Facing the main square, the church of San F i l i p p o p r e s e r v e s a n e x p r e s s i v e 1 5 t h - c e n t u r y wooden crucifix and sculp- tural groups by Gioacchino Varlè, while Santa Chiara displays the ornate geome- tries of late Baroque. Just outside the walls, the San- tuario del Santissimo Crocifisso stands close to t h e r e m a i n s o f a n c i e n t Trea and has been central to archaeological research on the Roman settlement. Treia is also known for a tradition that links sport and local pride in the gioco del p a l l o n e c o l b r a c c i a l e , a n e a r l y I t a l i a n b a l l g a m e played with a heavy wooden cuff. Before football, it was one of the country's great popular entertainments, and in Treia it became part of c i v i c i d e n t i t y . T h e l o c a l c h a m p i o n C a r l o D i d i m i inspired Giacomo Leopardi's ode A un vincitore nel pal- lone, and his name still des- ignates the sferisterio, the long, semicircular court built in 1818 just beyond the town w a l l s . E a c h s u m m e r , t h e D i s f i d a d e l B r a c c i a l e revives this heritage with matches, parades, and open- air taverns. Unlike the gener- ic medieval reenactments common elsewhere, the fes- tival grows directly from an authentic local practice that has never fully disappeared. The town's culinary reper- toire is well known and well worth a try: its most distinc- t i v e s p e c i a l t y i s t h e c a l - cione di Treia, also known as piconi, small, golden pas- tries filled with cheese, egg, and lemon, traditionally pre- pared for Easter and now listed among the region's p r o t e c t e d p r o d u c t s . Around them, we find the cuisine typical of the Macer- ata area, with vincisgrassi, a r i c h , b a k e d p a s t a d i s h , alongside ciauscolo salami, local pecorino, and seasonal vegetables. Wines from nearby appel- lations complement these flavors perfectly and com- plete the picture of a territo- ry still very much connected in its agricultural rhythms and long history. I n the coastal town of Amalfi, each year the d e v o t i o n t o S a i n t A n d r e w ( S a n t ' A n- drea) culminates in a unique ritual known as the Corsa di Sant'Andrea. The event begins when the s i l v e r b u s t o f t h e p a t r o n saint is carried out of the crypt of the cathedral and p r o c e s s e d t h r o u g h t h e streets, then brought down to the sea for a blessing of the waves, a nod to Amal- f i ' s m a r i t i m e h e r i t a g e a n d t h e l o n g p r e s e n c e o f fishermen in the communi- ty. W h a t f o l l o w s i s w h a t everyone waits for: on the monumental staircase of the c a t h e d r a l , p o r t e r s s w i f t l y c a r r y t h e s t a t u e u p w a r d , u r g e d o n b y t h e c r o w d , climbing roughly sixty-two steps to the threshold of the Duomo. The Duomo itself, dedicated to Sant'Andrea, sits above the town on the h o m o n y m o u s P i a z z a a n d serves as both spiritual cen- ter and civic landmark for Amalfi. Though the image of the race might appear ancient, i t s o r i g i n s a r e r e l a t i v e l y recent; the first documented c o r s a d a t e s t o 1 9 4 6 , a n d s i n c e t h e n t h e r i t u a l h a s become an essential part of A m a l f i ' s c e l e b r a t i o n s o n June 27 and November 30. The moment of arrival at the steps is met by ringing bells, cheers, and a palpable sense o f c o m m u n a l r e l e a s e : t h e town, for that moment, for- gets its quiet daily rhythm to enter a collective act of devo- tion and identity. More than a spectacle, the tradition evokes Amalfi's historical role as a mar- i t i m e r e p u b l i c a n d t h e saint's protection of seafar- ers. The uphill race becomes symbolic of the town's rela- tionship with its steep ter- rain, the sea, and the effort of living in such a beautiful but difficult landscape. As evening falls, fireworks burst over the harbor, and towns- folk gather in processions, feasts, and celebrations. For visitors intent on more than mere sightseeing, attending t h e C o r s a d i S a n t ' A n d r e a means immersing oneself in a tradition of place, so it's i m p o r t a n t n o t t o s i m p l y watch from the sidelines: the ideal vantage point is mid- way up the stairs, where you can hear the leather uniform shoes hitting the stone, the crowds' encouragement, and sense the living community t h a t k e e p s t h i s t r a d i t i o n alive. The calm before the race up the steps, in Amalfi (Image created with DALL-E 2) Amalfi, Sant'Andrea, and the race up the Duomo steps Treia: living history in the heart of the Marche An aerial view of Treia (Photo: David And Diane Daniel/Dreamstime) LIFE PEOPLE REVIEWS ADVICE TRADITIONS

• Cover