L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 11, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 28 L'Italo-Americano T h o s e s m a l l r e d and yellow seals found on cheeses, wines, and cured m e a t s h a v e become increasingly familiar, and acronyms such as DOP, I G P , D O C , a n d D O C G , once meaningful mainly to specialists, now sit at the cen- ter of a growing share of the Italian agri-food economy. The most recent Ismea- Qualivita report places the production value of geograph- ical indication foods at about €20.7 billion (around 24 bil- lion USD) in 2024, a 3.5 per- cent increase in one year and roughly 25 percent higher than in 2020, confirming the system has truly become an economic driver, thus moving well beyond its role as a tool for safeguarding tradition. A clearer understanding of these labels can help explain why their use has expanded so quickly: DOP identifies foods produced, processed, and pre- p a r e d e n t i r e l y w i t h i n a d e f i n e d a r e a , k e e p i n g a n uninterrupted link with place; IGP allows greater flexibility but still requires at least one production phase in the desig- nated zone and a demonstra- ble connection to local exper- t i s e ; D O C a n d D O C G regulate winemaking, setting precise rules for grape vari- e t i e s , y i e l d s , a n d a g i n g . Together, they form Italy and Europe's most extensive net- work of protected names. By l a t e 2 0 2 5 , I t a l y c o u n t e d around 896 geographical indi- cations across food, wine, and spirits, including more than 330 products in the agri-food category alone. The economic impact of this framework is visible in both domestic turnover and e x p o r t p e r f o r m a n c e , w i t h D O P a n d I G P f o o d s n o w accounting for roughly 19 per- cent of Italy's agri-food econo- my, and sales abroad continu- ing to grow at a steady pace: in 2024, foreign sales of certi- fied foods and wines reached around €12.3 billion (14.3 bil- lion USD), more than 8 per- cent higher than the previous year and 24 percent above 2020 levels. Wine remains a strong performer: DOC and DOCG labels dominate Italy's €8.1 billion (9.4 billion USD) export value and continue to resist the global slowdown in consumption. Analysts often note that, despite inflation, irregular harvests, and trade pressures, Italian wine has maintained results that many c o m p e t i t o r s s t r u g g l e d t o match. C o n s u m e r t r u s t i s , o f course, essential: research conducted in 2024 by Luiss Business School suggests that nearly all Italian con- sumers recognize DOP and I G P l a b e l s a n d a s s o c i a t e t h e m w i t h g u a r a n t e e s o f a u t h e n t i c i t y a n d s a f e t y , while, outside Italy, their function becomes even more practical, especially in mar- kets crowded with "Italian- sounding" products that imi- t a t e I t a l i a n n a m e s o r packaging without any real link to the country. For North American consumers faced with this confusion, choos- ing a certified product has become a straightforward w a y t o b y p a s s i m i t a t i o n goods and support producers working within the protected system. The recent expansion of certified foods has also made space for products that were once known mainly within their own regions, as in the case of Piave DOP, a cow's milk cheese from the Belluno area in the Dolomites. For much of its history, Piave remained a local specialty, yet targeted investment in international promotion over the past decade has changed its trajectory, with recent reports indicating turnover increases of about 35 percent, and exports now reaching more than thirty countries. To put it simply and briefly, Piave DOP shows that mid- s i z e d D O P w i t h a w e l l - defined identity can secure a stable position not only local- ly, but also in international distribution channels. A similar pattern can be s e e n w i t h P e c o r i n o Toscano DOP. Although it spent years overshadowed by Pecorino Romano, it has built a solid presence outside Italy; a p p r o x i m a t e l y a f i f t h o f annual production now goes abroad, and the United States absorbs more than a third of that volume. The cheese's balance of familiarity and r e g i o n a l s p e c i f i c i t y h a s helped it become a recogniz- able name, and consortium- led tastings and trade-fair participation have strength- ened recognition among buy- ers who previously focused on larger names. Other DOP/IGP success stories come from produce like Radicchio Rosso di T r e v i s o I G P , o n c e s o l d almost exclusively in North- ern Italy, and today known and appreciated around the world, thanks to coordinated p r o m o t i o n a l w o r k a n d increased interest from spe- cialty retailers. The consor- tium estimates that exports account for roughly 15 per- cent of total production, sup- ported by incoming trade missions organized with the Italian Trade Agency that give foreign buyers direct exposure to fields and pro- ducers. Current discussions about upgrading the radic- chio rosso from IGP to DOP only demonstrate the confi- dence of growers, who see further potential for expan- sion. The olive-oil sector has been experiencing the same momentum: Italian DOP and IGP oils exceeded 16,000 tons of certified volume in 2024, a rise of more than 30 percent in one year, with a market value approaching €200 million (230 million USD) and exports increased by about 25 percent. This is a n e s p e c i a l l y n o t e w o r t h y result, considering the nega- tive harvest in the country's m a i n r e g i o n a l p r o d u c e r , Puglia, and the combination of extreme weather, rising costs, and pressure on yields that olive growers have faced. But while denominations are useful for consumers and strengthen producers' visibil- ity – and revenues – there are also challenges. Small farms often struggle with the administrative demands of certification, and repeated calls for simplification under- line the need for clearer pro- cedures, especially for opera- tors with limited resources. And while international trade means visibility and more sales, it can also introduce uncertainty: Italian cheeses, cured meats, and sparkling wines periodically face the threat of tariffs in major mar- k e t s s u c h a s t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , r a i s i n g c o n c e r n s about the stability of export flows even though overall performance remains strong. Issues may also be present within the structure itself of the denominations: in the olive-oil sector, for instance, some consortia argue that current rules do not fully r e w a r d q u a l i t y a n d t h a t structural reforms are needed to maintain competitiveness. But what do these dynam- ics mean for American con- sumers? They certainly shape the way Italian food reaches their tables today and, cer- tainly, the increased avail- ability of DOP, IGP, DOC, and DOCG products on US shelves means easier access to foods that once required a trip to Italy or a visit to a spe- cialist importer. Choosing Piave, Pecorino Toscano, or Treviso radicchio creates a direct link to the farmers, cheesemakers, and winemak- ers whose work defines these products. With new names entering the system and less- er-known regions gaining vis- ibility, geographical indica- tions show their ability not only to preserve tradition but also to broaden it, offering emerging foods the chance to t r a v e l f a r t h e r t h a n e v e r before. In a market still crowded with imitations, these seals remain a practical and reli- able way to support genuine Italian craftsmanship and the communities behind it. LUCA SIGNORINI The new geography of taste: how DOP and IGP products are expanding worldwide Radicchio di Treviso, a recognized produce of Veneto (Photo: Annilein/Dreamstime) IMPRESA ITALIA MADE IN ITALY TOP BRANDS BUSINESS & ECONOMY

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