L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 11, 2025 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano B r e s s a n o n e r e v e a l s i t s e l f g r a d u a l l y , a s A l p i n e t o w n s often do, but its mix of history, architecture and mountain life gives it a character that makes it very special. Considered the oldest town in Tyrol, it grew along an important north-south route yet never lost the scale of a walkable community where Italian and German cultures meet naturally in cafés, mar- kets, and habits. The peaks of Mount Plose rise close behind the houses, while vineyards almost touch the edge of the historic quarter, giving the town a pleasing mix of Alpine scenery and Central European elegance. Bressanone's long history becomes clearer as you wan- der toward the cathedral, whose baroque interior con- t r a s t s w i t h i t s s i m p l e r medieval cloister decorated with frescoes; nearby stands t h e H o f b u r g , t h e f o r m e r episcopal palace, which pre- s e r v e s t h e m e m o r y o f t h e prince-bishops who once gov- erned this part of Tyrol. Today its rooms house museums and exhibitions, and its courtyard serves as an atmospheric set- ting for cultural events. Even a n u n e x p e c t e d c h a p t e r o f European history appears here: in the 1550s, an ele- phant named Soliman, t r a v e l l i n g f r o m L i s b o n t o Vienna as a diplomatic gift, stopped in Bressanone with h i s h a n d l e r s , a s t o r y t h a t remained in the local lore and is still cherished by the com- munity. More prosaically, it tells us about a town that, throughout its history, based its fortune on being a key link between the Mediterranean and the wealthy courts of Mit- tel Europe. The closer we get to winter, t h e m o r e B r e s s a n o n e ' s atmosphere shifts towards t h e f e s t i v e , w i t h P i a z z a Duomo, its wooden stalls arranged around the central tree and the cathedral as a wondrous backdrop, turning into the heart of the Christ- mas season. The market has existed for more than thirty years and remains committed to regional products: crafts- p e o p l e f r o m S o u t h T y r o l b r i n g d e c o r a t e d c a n d l e s , carved wood objects, ceram- ics, knitted hats and seasonal biscuits, while food stalls offer dumplings, goulash soups, s t r u d e l , m u l l e d w i n e a n d herbal teas. The market is part of the network of Origi- nal South Tyrol Christ- m a s m a r k e t s , w h i c h emphasize local identity and short supply chains. I n t h e e v e n i n g , p e o p l e move towards the Hofburg for the light-and-music show that has become one of the town's signatures during this time of the year; past edi- tions have transformed Soli- man's story into an illuminat- ed tale projected across the palace walls, while recent sea- sons introduce new narratives created by designers, musi- cians and visual artists. The courtyard fills with families and visitors who settle into the cold for twenty minutes of color, sound and humor. Away from the seasonal lights, Bressanone remains a place for slower exploration: a short trip leads to Novacella A b b e y , a 1 2 t h - c e n t u r y Augustinian monastery which is still today an important cul- tural and religious institution. Its library, church and collec- tion of artworks connect to centuries of scholarship and spirituality, while the sur- rounding vineyards underline the long-standing connection between monastic life and agriculture. The wines pro- duced here, especially the crisp white varieties charac- teristic of the Eisack Valley, are well known and appreciat- ed. Back in town, the slopes of Mount Plose rise just above the rooftops: while this is not the season for it, if you visit during the summer you'll be able to enjoy its many hiking trails, bike routes and broad views. Right now, of course, it's all about skiing. And then, of course, there i s f o o d : m e n u s h e r e l e a n toward the comfort of the Alps, so think of speck, caned- erli, barley soups, and slow- cooked meats; cafés, though, serve pastries and espresso with the same confidence as anywhere further south. Bak- eries here tell the same story, with strudel sitting next to brioche and almond cookies. Even the heady mixture of Italian and German spoken in the streets makes Bressanone special, as it low-key reminds us of the beauty of the Old Continent, with its mix of sounds, habits, flavors and quirks, that manage to make us all, at once, unique and unified. I n m a n y p a r t s o f Italy, the Christ- mas season begins not with decorations but with the lighting o f a f i r e . T h e f a l ò d e l - l'Avvento is an older cus- t o m t h a n m o s t m o d e r n Christmas traditions, and in some valleys and villages, it r e m a i n s t h e g e s t u r e t h a t marks the shift from late fall to the weeks leading up to C h r i s t m a s . T h e p r a c t i c e varies from town to town, b u t t h e b a s i c i d e a i s t h e same: communities gather around a large pile of wood, branches, and garden cut- t i n g s , a n d s e t i t a l i g h t a t dusk, sometimes on the first S u n d a y o f A d v e n t , s o m e - times closer to Christmas. In villages across Trenti- no, South Tyrol, and parts of V e n e t o , b u t a l s o i n m a n y other locations across the center and the South of Italy, families, local associations, and volunteer groups pre- pare the bonfire in the days before the event, often treat- ing the work as an occasion to clean fields and orchards before winter. Before wide- spread electric lighting, a large blaze visible across the valley would have been one of the few signals that the Advent season had begun, but the flames also carried s y m b o l i c w e i g h t , a s t h e y were a way of clearing out the remains of the agricultur- a l y e a r a n d b r i n g i n g l i g h t into the darkest weeks. In some communities the height of the flames or the direction of the smoke was read as a sign for the coming winter. The bonfires of yore were certainly different in essence f r o m t h o s e o f t o d a y , b u t there are still common traits, starting with the social fabric that forms around the fires themselves: people still gath- er with mulled wine or hot chocolate, children run at the edges of the crowd, and small neighborhoods that may not meet often during the year find a chance to reconnect. The tradition is still very much alive in many parts of the country, from North to South: from Molini di Tures ( T r e n t i n o – A l t o A d i g e ) t o N o v a P o n e n t e ( T r e n t i n o – Alto Adige); from Loreto and Ancona (Marche) to Cascia and the villages of the Valne- rina (Umbria); from Bari and m a n y s m a l l t o w n s a c r o s s Puglia, to the villages of east- ern Sicily (Sicilia). Advent bonfires are very common in the North of the country, but are also found in the Center and South (Image created with DALL-E 2) Lighting the season: Northern Italy's Advent bonfires History, mountains and winter light: a visit to Bressanone A beautiful view of charming Bressanone, in Alto Adige (Photo: Luca Lorenzelli/Dreamstime) LIFE PEOPLE REVIEWS ADVICE TRADITIONS

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