L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 30, 2026 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano I n the hills of southern Basilicata, above the broad course of the Sinni Valley, we can find Valsinni, one of those Italian villages that can easily mislead you: it is small, with fewer than two thousand residents, and quiet enough to seem almost detached from the noise of modern tourism, yet it carries a larger-than-life identity, influenced not only by history and geography, but also by literature. The village lies in the province of Matera, around 55 miles south of Mat- era itself, roughly 95 miles southwest of Bari, and within reach of the Ionian coast. I t s n a m e i s g e n e r a l l y understood as meaning the "valley of the Sinni," the river that has long marked the life of this corner of Basilicata; like many Italian places, how- ever, the village had other names before arriving at the present one: for centuries it was known as Favale, later Favale di Malvarosa, before taking its current toponym in the nineteenth century. Valsinni's history is easily recounted starting from its position, because it rises on elevated ground, as so many historic settlements in south- ern Italy do. Height offered security, a clearer view of the surrounding territory, and s o m e p r o t e c t i o n f r o m t h e unhealthy lowlands that once troubled many valleys. Just like most of this part of the c o u n t r y , V a l s i n n i f e l t t h e influence of ancient Italic peo- ples, the Greek world of near- b y M a g n a G r a e c i a , R o m e , Byzantium, Norman rule, and the feudal systems that were characteristic of much of the South for centuries. It is not surprising, then, that the building defining the village skyline is a castle, the Castello Morra. Developed on medieval foundations and r e d e s i g n e d o v e r t i m e , i t remains the place most visi- tors remember, at least at first. Its stone towers and defensive walls give the town its profile, but this building is important also for another reason, as it is closely linked t o t h e w o m a n w h o m a d e Valsinni known far beyond Basilicata: Isabella Morra. It is, indeed, this connec- tion that gives the village an unusual distinction: while many small Italian towns are associated with saints, noble families, or dramatic battles, V a l s i n n i i s r e m e m b e r e d above all for a poet, Isabella. She was born here in the early sixteenth century into the noble family that held the castle, but her life was brief and tragic: in 1545, she was killed by her brothers, who believed she had dishonored the family through correspon- dence with a neighboring nobleman. Her writing, how- ever, survived the tragedy. Morra's poetry, marked by l o n e l i n e s s , c o n f i n e m e n t , longing, and a sharp aware- ness of isolation, is now con- sidered one of the most dis- tinctive voices of the Italian Renaissance; even today, one can still perceive, when read- ing her verse, the tension b e t w e e n i n t e l l i g e n c e a n d enclosure, talent and circum- stance. Valsinni intelligently decided to treat her legacy as an active part of the life of the village, with many cultural events, readings, and a well- k n o w n s u m m e r p r o g r a m , L'Estate di Isabella, dedicated to her work and figure. But Valsinni is also, more prosaically, just a beautiful place to visit, with an historic c e n t e r f i l l e d w i t h n a r r o w lanes that turn unexpectedly, stairways that connect differ- ent levels of the town, and incredible viewpoints that open onto the valley. Its stone houses seem to grow natural- ly from the hillside, making the whole village an almost magical, fable-like place. Its food belongs unmistak- a b l y t o i n l a n d B a s i l i c a t a : b r e a d r e m a i n s c e n t r a l , a s throughout the region, joined by handmade pasta, legumes, olive oil, seasonal greens, peppers, and cheeses linked to sheep and goat farming. Pork and lamb appear often, preserved meats remain part of the culinary tradition, and many dishes rely on simplici- ty, following a trend typical of agricultural realities across the peninsula. The village also sits well for travelers who want to explore a different kind of southern Italy: Matera draws international attention, coastal resorts attract sum- mer visitors, and the Pollino landscapes have their own appeal, but Valsinni offers a n o t h e r r e g i s t e r e n t i r e l y , more intimate and less per- formative, where time and peace are at the heart of it all. E a c h s p r i n g , Assisi sets aside i t s w e l l - k n o w n identity as a pil- grimage destina- tion and returns to one of its most vivid local traditions: the Calendimaggio, a festi- val of medieval pageantry and neighborhood rivalry held in the first days of May when, f o r s e v e r a l e v e n i n g s , t h e town's stone streets fill with banners, drums, torchlight, and costumed processions, transforming them into a liv- ing historical stage. T h e n a m e i t s e l f c o m e s from the Latin Kalendae Maii, the first days of May. Across Italy, forms of Cal- endimaggio once marked the arrival of spring with songs, flowers, and communal cele- brations after winter, but in Assisi, these older seasonal customs gradually merged with the city's civic history, giving rise to a much more elaborate event. At the heart of the festival i s t h e f r i e n d l y c o n t e s t b e t w e e n t h e t w o h i s t o r i c parts of Assisi: the Nobilis- sima Parte de Sopra, rep- resenting the upper section of town, and the Magnifica Parte de Sotto, represent- ing the lower section; loyalty to these two teams often runs through families and neigh- borhoods, and many resi- dents identify strongly with one side or the other from childhood. The modern form of Cal- endimaggio was revived in 1927 and developed further after the Second World War, when it took on the structure it still follows today. It is usu- ally held on the first Wednes- day, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday after May 1, with m o n t h s o f p r e p a r a t i o n behind it, during which cos- t u m e s a r e s e w n , m u s i c rehearsed, sets designed, and performances planned. Among the most symbolic moments is the blessing of the banners: Parte de Sopra gathers at the Cathedral of San Rufino, while Parte de Sotto gathers at the Basilica of San Francesco, before both groups move toward the cen- ter of the city. Over the following days, each side presents historical s c e n e s , m u s i c a l p e r f o r - mances, choral pieces, and torchlit parades inspired by m e d i e v a l A s s i s i . J u d g e s award points, and the win- n i n g f a c t i o n r e c e i v e s t h e Palio, the prize of the festi- val. Another beloved tradi- t i o n i s t h e s e l e c t i o n o f Madonna Primavera, the symbolic Lady Spring. What makes Calendimaggio spe- cial is that it remains a true civic celebration that unifies the town in a good-hearted rivalry. The celebration of Calendimaggio involves plenty of historical re-enactments beloved by the entire community (Photo: Shutterstock) Inside Calendimaggio, Assisi's most colorful historic tradition Valsinni, where a Renaissance poet still defines a village A view of Valsinni, in Basilicata. Photo: Shutterstock LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE

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