L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 30, 2026 www.italoamericano.org 22 L'Italo-Americano M a n y o f u s know Lig- u r i a t h r o u g h f o o d s t h a t b e c a m e i n t e r n a t i o n a l l y famous, like pesto or focac- cia, and through that post- card image of colorful towns facing the Mediterranean. Yet, this slice of coast in the North of Italy is also a region of mountains, inland valleys, and old routes that connect it to France, Pied- mont, Tuscany, and Emilia. In those upland communi- t i e s , c o o k i n g d e v e l o p e d around very different needs, and ingredients like potatoes, o n i o n s , d a i r y , p r e s e r v e d pork, and chestnuts, all of which influenced the table far more than fish or olive oil. If there is one dish that well represents this almost hidden side of Liguria, that's definitely torta baciocca, a rustic savory pie still associ- ated with the Ligurian-Emil- ian Apennines, especially with areas such as Val Sturla and Val d'Aveto, where local food traditions often crossed regional borders more easily than many maps may sug- gest. Indeed, its borderland i d e n t i t y i s p a r t o f w h a t makes torta baciocca inter- esting, not only from a gas- tronomic but a socio-cultural point of view: Italian cuisine is often presented abroad as neatly divided into regions, each with its own fixed spe- cialties, but reality has always been more fluid than that. In t h e p a s t , f a m i l i e s w o u l d m o v e f o r s e a s o n a l w o r k , w h i l e s h e p h e r d s c r o s s e d mountain paths and traders linked villages; each of them often brought local recipes along, and this is the context t o w h i c h t o r t a b a c i o c c a b e l o n g s , a c o n t e x t o f exchange and adaptation. Even today, depending on the household and the valley, it may lean more Ligurian in one place, more Emilian in another, but the core idea remains the same, with a fill- ing made largely from pota- toes and onion, enriched with cheese and sometimes a little pork fat, enclosed in a simple crust and baked until golden. But torta baciocca also tells us an important story about what Italians mean when they speak of cucina povera, an expression often translated lazily as "poor cui- sine," as if it described depri- vation alone; in practice, however, it refers to a cook- ing culture built on thrift, knowledge, and the ability to make simple ingredients go a long way and in a manner that tastes good. This is the v e r y i d e a b e h i n d t o r t a baciocca, a recipe developed by mountain communities, who had to think carefully about storage, calories, and waste, and to whom potatoes b e c a m e v a l u a b l e b e c a u s e they grew well in difficult ter- rain and fed households reli- ably. The other ingredients were added following the same concept: onions kept through colder months, while hard cheeses added some protein and extra flavor; flour and water could always become dough. A pie like baciocca was, in other words, an effi- cient, intelligent meal that could be put together using reliable, always available ingredients. The queen of the baciocca i s , o f c o u r s e , t h e p o t a t o , which itself gives us some interesting clues about the dish's history. Since potatoes spread widely through north- e r n I t a l i a n r u r a l c o o k i n g from the eighteenth century onward, torta baciocca likely belongs to later peasant f o o d t r a d i t i o n s o f t h e Apennines and not to that distant medieval past often imagined for old recipes; this i s e s p e c i a l l y s i g n i f i c a n t because it places the dish in a very recognizable historical moment, when new crops changed European diets and communities incorporated them into local habits. As you may have guessed, no single official version of the baciocca exists: some cooks slice the potatoes thin- ly, others mash them rough- ly; some soften the onions first, drawing out their sweet- ness, while others bake them directly into the filling; eggs may appear or not, and while Parmigiano is common, local cheeses can replace it. Some versions use lard or pancetta f o r r i c h n e s s , o t h e r s a r e entirely meatless. There are even accounts of pans lined with chestnut leaves instead of dough, a reminder of how central chestnut culture once w a s i n t h e s e m o u n t a i n s , where chestnut flour and chestnut wood used to be at the heart of all communities. What we discover from all these variations is a dish with the texture of real domestic cooking: it was never sup- posed to go on restaurants' menus, nor to be branded or e x p o r t e d . I t w a s m a d e because it worked well with simple ingredients. Served warm, it can be dinner; at r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e , i t becomes lunch or picnic food. The next day, a leftover slice is often better still. Recipe: torta baciocca (9-inch pie) F o r t h e d o u g h ( p a s t a matta), combine 2 cups all- purpose flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons olive oil, and about 1/2 to 2/3 cup water, adding the water gradually until you have a soft, workable dough. Knead briefly until smooth, then cover and let rest for 30 min- utes. F o r t h e f i l l i n g , b o i l o r steam 2 p o u n d s Y u k o n Gold or other waxy pota- toes until just tender. Peel if desired and slice thinly or crush roughly with a fork. In a skillet, cook 2 large sliced onions in 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-low heat until soft and lightly golden. Combine the potatoes and onions with 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano (or P e c o r i n o , o r a n y l o c a l cheese), 1 b e a t e n e g g if d e s i r e d , 1 / 2 t e a s p o o n black pepper, and salt to taste. Some traditional ver- sions also add a little diced pancetta, lard, or bacon for richness. H e a t o v e n t o 3 7 5 ° F (190°C). Roll out the dough into a thin round and use it to line a greased 9-inch pie dish or s h a l l o w b a k i n g p a n , allowing a slight edge up the sides. Add the filling and level it gently. Drizzle the top lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with a little extra cheese if desired. Bake for 40 to 50 min- utes, until the crust is golden underneath and the top is nicely browned with crisp edges. Let rest for 15 minutes before slicing. Serve warm or at room temperature. GIULIA FRANCESCHINI A slice of delicious torta baciocca, made with potatoes, pasta matta, cheese, and pancetta (Photo: Shutterstock) LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES Torta baciocca: a taste of Italy's mountain borderlands

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