L'Italo-Americano

L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, DECEMBER 12, 2013 Planning Christmas in Italy JESSICA ANDREWS In April I decided to book tickets for my parents and I to be in Italy at Christmas. We were so excited, obviously, and are looking forward to it immensely, but after we bought the flights there was a moment where we looked at each other and said "Now what?" What exactly does one do in Italy around Christmas? The only thing we could think of was Midnight Mass at the Vatican. We knew Santa Claus, though present as "Babbo Natale", isn't as big of a deal as he is in the States and, though you'll see a Christmas tree now and then, they're not the staple of the holiday like they are here. So we were aware that Christmas in Italy wouldn't be eggnog and reindeer and Charlie Brown's Christmas on TV while everyone munches on candy canes, but what would it be? And so the search began for things to do in Italy around Christmas. It turns out that the staple of an Italian Christmas is – probably much more appropriately than a tree – a presepe, or nativity. Starting on December 8th (the Feast of the Immaculate Conception) you'll find them all over, some of the largest and most grand manger scenes you've ever encountered. In Rome's Piazza del Popolo, over 100 presepi fill the square. In Naples, via San Gregorio Armeno in Spaccanapoli is the home of dozens of artisans creating magnificent figures for your home nativity in all shapes and sizes. Just like some people in the US have Christmas villages in their home with figurines representing various buildings and people, some Italians have nativities with figures representing their own family and people in their town in addition to the historic figures we all expect to find. You can even find figurines of Bart Simpson as a shepherd or other cartoon characters paying their respects to the newborn Savior. You'll also find presepe vivente, or living nativities, all around Italy, like the one set up in a in a cave each year near Trapani, in Sicily. And though not every family may set up a Christmas tree, the small town of Gubbio in Umbria sets one up that is large enough for the entire valley to enjoy. Gubbio lies at the base of Monte Ingino just east of the Tuscany / Umbria border. Every year they send people up the mountain with lights – it must be thousands and thousand of lights! – and they lay them out from the base of the mountain to the top in the shape of one very large Christmas tree! Che magnifico! Somewhat close by in Città di Castello, the story of Father Christmas (senza reindeer) www.italoamericano.com lights so their journey toward Porta San Florido is easy to follow. Near the bridge, a crib (or culla) is suspended over the water and children wait on the banks for the Father Christmases to disembark and present them with small presents. Up north in the Italian Alps, townspeople use skis instead of canoes to celebrate. If you're in the mountains on Christmas Eve, be sure to be outside at midnight when the Alpine guides from Cortina D'Ampezzo announce the birth of Jesus with the Fiaccolate degli Sciatori ("torch- light procession of skiers"). Carrying illuminated torches, the guides criss-cross down the mountain lighting it up – as we would say here – "like a Christmas tree", creating a magi- cal spectacle for all to see. And of course, you can't go to Italy at Christmas without EATING. Some of the food I'm looking most forward to (and that my Italian friends have told me most about with longing in their eyes!) are the diverse and delicious Italian sweets, like marron glacé (glazed chestnuts), struffoli (balls of fried dough the size of marbles, covered in a coat of honey and sprinkles), cenci (ribbons of fried pastry covered in powdered sugar that are also popular around Carnevale) and the many Italian sweet breads: panforte from Siena, pandolce from Genoa and panettone from Milan. YUM! One of the things I love most about traveling through Italy is the diversity of regional traditions, originating in a time before trains, before television, when culture truly was local down to the city and town level. That's how Italy can remain perpetually interesting, with unending surprises in each new hamlet. Christmas traditions are no different. There are so many things to do in Italy around Christmastime, it became hard to decide where to go! I suppose that's a good problem to have, but its frustrating not to have enough time to experience all of these wonderful events. Perhaps my family will have to create a new tradition of our own… "Christmas in Italy". I like it! Buon Natale a tutti! Jessica is a travel enthusiast and entertainment executive living in Los Angeles. Her independent travels through Italy have inspired her travel blog, OneDayInItaly.com morning breakfast in the skylight-illuminated dining room, greeting each guest in the historic lobby with its circular stairway, to afternoon cocktails in the Blues Bar overlooking the lake, and on into the evening's dinner hour. A recently added museum room shows the incredible 100+ year history of the hotel, with many artifacts and photographs. One does not have to venture very far to enjoy the best of Italian art. In fact, a mere 50 feet from the hotel's main lobby one finds himself in front of the lovely Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angioli. Built in 1499, it houses two major works by famed artist Bernardino Luini, the frescos of "The Passion and Crucifixion of Christ" and the equally beautiful "Last Supper', painted in 1529. The Passion and Crucifixion took ten years to finish, and it represents the artistic highlight of all Ticino, as well as the finest Renaissance fresco in all of Switzerland. After viewing these masterpieces, one can easily understand why Luini is called the "Raphael of the North." Archaeological studies have found the area was once settled by Etruscans, and that in the 9th century it was subject to the Bishop of Como. During the Middle Ages, it was also the scene of complex struggles between the cities of Milan and Como. But what would a visit to any Italian city be without a sampling of the best in local cuisine? Lugano has one of the finest 5 star restaurants in Europe, and it is located on a hillside plateau within the famous Villa Principe Leopoldo Hotel & Spa. Under the careful direction of its Maitre d'Hotel Claudio Recchia, fortunate visitors can enjoy the finest delicacies accompanied by world-class Italian wines, all the while overlooking the twinkling lights of the city and Lake Lugano far below. Christmas Eve celebration on the Tiber River, Città di Castello comes to life on Christmas Eve (la vigilia di Natale) as a group of men, all dressed as the ancient gift-giver, each paddle their own canoe down the Tiber River. The canoes are lit up with Christmas 45 Switzerland's Little Italy pAOLO ROMANO As most Italians and Italian Americans know, in every large, or for that matter small city, one can usually find a "Little Italy" where Italians have congregated for generations, perpetuating the Italian culture and heritage. Even in German-speaking Switzerland lies, almost hidden, a true gem of Italian culture called Lugano. Located in the region known to Italians as Ticino, Lugano is its largest city. It lies on Lake Lugano and is only 8 km from the Italian border, which can be easily seen on most days. Lugano is surrounded by mountains such as Monte Bre, San Salvatore, and the Singhignola. Lugano's suburb Gandria reaches right up to the border. Located south of the Alps, and with its surrounding mountains, Lugano has a mild climate and is therefore a big tourist destination. I can testify to that, having visited there many times in the last 25 years. The landmark hotel that I have called home in Lugano is the "historic" International Au Lac, built in 1906 and owned and operated from that date by the Familia Giulio Schmid. Located center point to this amazing city. The International was recently recognized by UNESCO's International Council on Monuments and Sites as an eminent historic site. Paolo Romano with Maitre d'Hotel, Claudio Recchia at the corner of the famed Via Nassa, Lugano's Rodeo Drive, and the lakefront, it serves as a Despite his advancing years, Sig. Schmid is on site each day supervising the sumptuous

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