L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 23, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano ELIZABETH SALTHOUSE P erched atop three Tuscan hills, the ancient walled city of Siena is famous for many things. Its medieval streets and architecture have barely changed in 800 years. Its poly- chrome marble cathedral rivals the beauty of Florence's own. And its historic Piazza del Campo, hosting the world famous Palio horserace every year, is acclaimed as the most beautiful civic square in Italy. But beneath the pavements and palazzi lie the tunnels, or bottini, constructed in the 12th century that kept Siena alive; these are the underground aqueducts of Siena and this is their story. A brief history of Siena The original founders of the hilltop city of Siena are lost in the mists of time. Legend has it that Senius and Aschius, sons of Remus and nephews of Romulus the founder of Rome, established Siena, hence the city's emblem of a she-wolf suckling twins. The truth may be a little less romantic with evidence of Etruscan settlement dating back to between 900 & 400 BC. The Romans arrived next, followed by the Lombards of Germany bringing trade prosperity in the 700s AD. And then Charlemagne's Franks took over in 774 AD before the Senese gained independence in the 11th century. But whatever Siena's history or whoever was ruling, there was one problem that all residents faced - how to make water flow uphill into the walled hilltop citadel. Building the Bottini of Siena The early Etruscan and Roman settlers were advanced people, familiar with the use of irrigation for farm land and mov- ing water from uplands but the problem facing them in Siena was different. The city is 322 meters (1056 feet) above sea level and the nearest fresh water source is a tributary of the river Arbia in the valley to the south so the Senese had to find another source of water for daily life and one that didn't involve leaving the safety of their hilltop strong- hold. The solution in the end was quite simple, literally falling from the sky. Rainwater. Long before modern plumb- ing and hydraulics the Senese people learnt to collect rainwater seepage together with water from little hilltop springs. The trick was to channel it into a series of underground tunnels called Bottini built into the tufa vol- canic rock. Gravity and natural flow would then direct the water in small terracotta tiled channels or gorelli in the bottom of the tunnel. As it gathered in volume it would be pooled in large col- lection tanks, cisterns and foun- tains dotted around the city. And as many of the pools were under cover they had the added benefit The medieval fountain Fontebranda, located in Terzo di Camollia, in the Contrada of Oca in Siena, Tuscany, Italy. The first mention of the fountain was in 1081. — Photo by ajlber ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES Discovering Siena's underground aqueducts A map of the wells and corresponding streets of preventing evaporation and keeping the precious water cool and clear throughout the swelter- ing Tuscan summers. As the city became richer and more powerful the underground aqueducts became more sophisti- cated too. And the result was that after some serious construction work between the 12th and 15th centuries during the height of the city's power, Siena now had over 25 kilometers of head-height vaulted stone tunnels criss-cross- ing far beneath the streets. The problem of water had been solved. By the Renaissance Siena's ancient underground bottini tun- nels were feeding 17 fountains dotted around the city. The oldest one still supplied by the bottini is the Fontebranda in the contrada or district of Oca, near the Porta di Fontebranda. The first pool on the site dated to around 1081 but the Siena Guild of Woolmakers built the current version in 1246. And today you can still visit it, admiring the Gothic arches and crenellated roof that protect the precious liquid treasure inside. The arrival of modern hydraulics and plumbing meant that the Senese people no longer needed to rely on the bottini to supply the community fountains as sources for their household water. Nevertheless the tunnels continue to send Tuscany's pre- cious precipitation to the tanks, cisterns and pools. And the chan- nels are still maintained by spe- cially trained bottinieri who coordinate repairs, remove debris and restore damage caused by tree roots to ensure the water flows just as it has for centuries and centuries. And will do for many more. You can even visit the bottini with specially organized tours by the skilled and knowledgeable bottinieri who will take you through the tunnels that made life in Siena possible. These were the arteries and capillaries that brought the lifeblood into the heart of the city and by walking even a small section you begin to appreciate their significance, despite their hidden, secret loca- tions. So next time you climb up the hill and cross through the impos- ing Medieval gates to tread the stone paved alleyways of Siena spare a thought for the bottinieri who once toiled right under your feet to keep the city alive. And keep an eye out for the decora- tive and functional fountains that are sprinkled around the city. From the very public and ornate Fonte Gaia in the central civic Piazza del Campo to the func- tional Fontebranda tucked away in the heart of one of Siena's leg- endary, historic contrade com- munities, each one had the same purpose; to keep the city hydrat- ed under the blazing summer sun. You can even still dip your hand under the taps and spouts to take a slug of the crystal clear liquid. And its all thanks to one thing; the ingenious underground bottini tunnels of Siena.

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