L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 4, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano ELIZABETH SALTHOUSE Seclusion, solitude and scenic settings: Italy's hidden monasteries ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES E ver since Jesus spent 40 days in the wilderness, Christians have sought soli- tude as an act of devotion and dedication to peaceful prayer. Devout and secluded Christian communities began to spring up across Europe as early as the 3rd and 4th century AD. And Greece, Ireland and Italy were at the fore- front of the new practice, estab- lishing a pious tradition of reclu- sion and isolation with remote monasteries and hermitages. Today, some of the earliest Italian examples survive alongside later communities, all still tucked away in quiet, scenic spots ideal for contemplation so if you are seek- ing seclusion, solitude and time to pray, here are some of Italy's beautiful hidden monasteries. Early Christian monasteries When Christianity first started it came up against the all-power- ful, pagan Roman Empire whose supremacy encompassed much of Europe and the Middle East. Worshippers often had to pray in secret, forming small groups who would come together in private homes to avoid Roman suspicion or surveillance. As the empire began to wane, however, towards the 4th and 5th centuries, Christianity spread and the devo- tional practice of living an ascetic, austere and pious life developed across the southern Mediterranean, particularly in Greece and Italy. As more people took on a reli- gious life, they increasingly mod- eled themselves on scripture, including the Old Testament, choosing isolated, solitary lives as hermits dedicated to God. They became known as monks, taking their name from the ancient Greek word "monos" meaning alone. And whilst Irish monks continued to live secluded lives alone, Italian monks living in the wilderness gradually moved together into communities or monasteries where they could continue their religious life even further. Some Italian monasteries or hermitages were founded on the principles of reclusion where individuals lived in voluntary seclusion from the public and society whilst others encouraged community. But however they lived all monks focused on prayer, devotion and study. This led many monasteries to become centres of knowledge, with prized libraries of rare transcripts that the monk scribes would laboriously copy. And today we owe much of our historic knowl- edge to the patience of those monks, without whom many sto- ries and key accounts would have been lost. That many of these Italian monasteries still stand, whilst their English counterparts were smashed to smithereens by King Henry VI in the Middle Ages is due to Italy's deeply respected religious heritage and tradition. And although many now stand empty or have been turned into commercial hostels or hotels as fewer people choose the monas- tic life, there are plenty of places where quiet contemplation is still possible. Let's take a look at some of the most beautiful set- tings for Italy's hidden monaster- ies. 6 OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ITALIAN HERMITAGES Eremo or hermitage of San Bartolomeo in Legio – set 600 meters above sea level in the Majella massif of the Abruzzo Appennines the tiny eremo dates back to the 1270s when a hermit called Peter Angelerio da Morrone, who would go on to become Pope Celestino V, settled there. Hunched on a rocky bal- cony, protected by a massive overhang the church and two small hermit cells can be reached by one of four irregular staircases cut into the mountainside. And it's thanks to its protected loca- tion that the hermitage, aban- doned for several centuries, has survived the degradation of time and now offers shelter once more to those seeking respite. Hermitage of San Colombano, Trambileno – the legend of San Colombano began with tales of dragon slaying, killing a monster that had been terrifying local children. The her- mit hero settled in a little cave sunken into the vertiginous cliff face overlooking the Leno Vallarsa gorge to pray and was, over time, joined by others in the Grotta degli Eremiti or Cave of Hermits. By 753 there was a small hermitage clinging to the cliff face and in the early 11th century a church was added enabling the hermits to focus on meditation and contemplation in complete isolation until 1782. Even today the eremo is reach- able only by climbing 102 uneven steps in the rock wall but visitors are welcome to admire the view out over the gorge where a dragon once lived. Hermitage of Bismantova, Castelnovo ne' Monti, Reggio Emilia – dedicated to the Madonna, the church and monastery of Bismantova nestles at the bottom of the Pietra di Bismantova, an enormous cylin- drical rock formation that domi- nates the skyline of the Reggiano Apennines. The pietra, or stone, has long been believed to hold spiritual powers and has always been the destination for religious pilgrimages even before the her- mitage was built in 1617. It was even mentioned in Dante Alighieri's Divine Comedy. Today the church, run by a sin- gle, solitary priest, holds 15th century frescoes and continues to welcome visitors for a spot of contemplation. Hermitage of San Cataldo, Cottanello – venturing south, pilgrims entering Lazio find this monastery hugging the tough granite rock, sheltering in an immense hollow for protection. Benedictine monks have used the refuge since at least the 10th cen- tury, dedicating it to the 6th cen- tury saint Cataldo, Bishop of Rochau, who was said to have taken shelter from Aryan perse- cution there. And today the small chapel is home to the most beau- tiful ancient Byzantine frescoes that lay hidden for centuries until German Saboteurs blew up the bridge below in 1944 accidental- ly revealing the paintings beneath old plasterwork. Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso, Leggiuno, Lake Maggiore – pilgrims in north-western Italy can take sanctuary in this 12th century hermitage overlooking the glori- ous Lake Maggiore. Designated a national monument, the eremo includes a small convent, church and historic frescoes. And its position perched on a rocky out- crop once made it the perfect secluded spot for prayer, served only by a long winding stairway down to the lakeside. Today trav- ellers can chose between a ferry service to the hermitage or even a modern elevator inside the stone ridge and the views make the journey well worth while. Sanctuary of Madonna della Corona, Ferrara di Monte Baldo – and finally, our sixth monastery is the perfect setting for solitary meditation and prayer. Hidden between heaven and earth in the Baldo rocks the sanctuary overlooks the Adige valley from 774 meters above sea level. Its religious tradition dates to 1522 when a sculpture of the Madonna was miraculously transported here from Rhodes in Greece by angelic intervention. And today visitors can admire Our Lady together with many other Carrara marble statues and 167 religious carvings. Add in the spectacular views out over the mountains and serenity is guaranteed. Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso, Leggiuno, Lake Maggiore. Photo by Chapay2000 Hermitage of San Colombano, Trambileno. Photo by freeteo

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