L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 15, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano MARIELLA RADAELLI I b r o u g h t w i t h m e a l i t t l e sachet of salt, a time-honored remedy to ward off evil spir- its, when visiting two Medieval borghi on La Riviera dei Fiori whose history includes a bizarre story of witchcraft, envy, super- stition and power. T h e f i r s t , T r i o r a , w h i c h means "Three Mouths", is scat- tered across the scenic interior in the Alta Val Argentina at 900 meters in altitude. Close by is Dolceacqua, or "Sweet Water", a well-preserved town with a peaceful atmosphere just 10 km from the French Riviera. Both are in the mountainous province of Imperia. They are two distinct places, b u t t h e y h a v e i n c o m m o n a somber past shrouded in mys- tery. B e a u t i f u l b u t q u a s i - a b a n - doned Triora counts just 400 souls. It is nested in the moun- tains, seemingly still in the fore- boding shadow of witch trials held in 1588 when it was an i m p o r t a n t f o r t r e s s i n t h e Republic of Genoa. S i t e o f o n e o f t h e l a r g e s t witch trials in Italian history, it was rumored to be a haven for witchcraft as widespread crop failures led to famine. Starving locals were convinced witchcraft was the cause. " D o z e n s o f w o m e n w e r e interrogated and imprisoned," says Professor Paolo Portone, c u r a t o r o f a n e w w i t c h c r a f t m u s e u m ( M u s e o d e l l a Stregoneria) that opened last December at Palazzo Stella, a restored building that housed the t r i a l i n 1 5 8 8 . A w o r k i n progress, the museum has a col- lection of paraphernalia such as black crucifixes and caldrons. "A section of the museum focuses on documents from the trials," he says. The Inquisitor of Genoa veri- fied local suspicions and 20 women were rounded up after parishioners at a mass pointed fingers at them. The number of alleged witches increased as the women were forced under tor- ture to name accomplices. At least four were burned at the stake. "Most of the women were not executed at the end of the trials, w h i c h t o d a y p r o v i d e a c a s e s t u d y o f h o w t h e C a t h o l i c C h u r c h c h a n g e d i t s a t t i t u d e toward the crime known as "dia- bolical witchcraft" because in the late 16th century a new pri- ority emerged -- stopping the spread of Lutheran ideas," he says. Historians note that thou- sands of so-called witches killed in Europe between 1500 and 1700 were healers. "The witches of Triora were healers as well," says Portone. "They were domi- nae herbarum, gifted herbalists that were competitors to medical doctors and priests as well. They attracted jealousy, producing hysteria." Triora boasts the impressive San Bernardino church that dis- p l a y s a 1 5 t h c e n t u r y f r e s c o depicting witches. If you visit Triora, take the time to check out picturesque D o l c e a c q u a i n t h e N e r v i a Valley, where the persecution of diabolical witchcraft was also active. "The valley was lashed b y a f e v e r e d w a v e o f w i t c h hunts," says Andrea Scibilia, founder and artistic director at Autunnonero, a cultural associa- tion that promotes folklore as a way to discover Liguria's her- itage. "Secret Inquisition emissaries held a tribunal here," he says. "They started hearings and tor- tured women accused of heresy and witchcraft. We know only the names of most of them. But we do know the entire stories of G i r o l i m a S a p p i a a n d M a r i a Aicardi. " G i r o l i m a l e a r n e d h e r b a l cures from her mother," Andrea explains. "They interrogated her for days. On July 25, 1636, she w a s s h a c k l e d i n t h e p i a z z a . People she had cured insulted her and mocked her." What about Maria? "Called to reveal other witches and the place where they met for the Sabbath, she was accused of killing a child on Christmas Day to offer him to the devil," says A n d r e a . " O n M a y 2 , 1 6 3 9 , Maria was tied to a rope. She was lifted high off the ground, crying out her innocence. They inflicted maximum pain, then she was imprisoned. Nobody heard from her after," Andrea continues. Those stories and many oth- e r s a r e t o l d d u r i n g a u n i q u e ghost tour that Autunnonero cre- ates at any time of the year in A c q u a d o l c e . I t s s t o r y t e l l e r s (www.autunnonero.com) con- n e c t t h e a u d i e n c e t o t h e Dolceacqua world of the time through reenactments. You can delight in the beauty of the Medieval town and its Roman bridge that gives such a sense of lightness it inspired the painter Monet. Afterward, a perfect place to relax is the L'Agriturismo La Vecchia (www.lavecchiadol- ceacqua.it), a country hotel with six comfortable, stylish rooms. Each is colorfully refurbished with hand-painted wardrobes, tables and drawers. La Vecchia is in the heart of the city, offer- ing a tranquil, relaxed base just 5 km from the sea. The restaurant brings you through a magic gas- tronomical journey of Ligurian dishes. Enjoy delicious food, olive oil and the Rossese wine. Everything is produced near- by, and owner Gianni's enthusi- asm for his dogs' friendly rustic haven is intoxicating. Acquadolce is dominated by the ruins of Doria castle, where the cruel 14th century lord of the manor Imperiale Doria is said to have used the custom ius pri- maes noctis, the right to the vir- ginity of his peasants' brides on the first night. "He locked a woman named L u c r e z i a i n s i d e h i s c a s t l e , " Scibilia explains "When she rejected him, he exploded with fury. She was beaten and died of thirst. They say that her ghost still roams the haunted castle, where her lamentations can still be heard." Beautiful but quasi-abandoned Triora counts just 400 souls Historians note that thousands of so-called witches killed in Europe between 1500 and 1700 were healers ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES The bewitched borghi of Riviera dei Fiori

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