L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, JULY 27, 2017 LIFESTYLE FASHION FOOD ARTS ADVICE PAULA REYNOLDS T rue confession: up until about 6 years ago I glee- fully lived my life believ- ing a truffle was a delectable orb of chocolaty goodness surround- ing a mystery filling of some- thing gooey and delicious. This type of truffle does exist, but to the foodie and those possi- bly more sophisticated than I, a truffle is much, much more -- and an edible that evokes some pretty strong reactions. Considered by some to be an epic fungus of legendary propor- tions that creates speechless rap- ture w hen s melled then devoured…, and by others as a detestable parasite emitting the stench of dirty feet and resem- bling something one would pre- fer to avoid stepping in, there is typically no fence-riding when it comes to feelings about this deli- cacy. A few years back, s ome Italian friends suggested we make the s hort trip over to Castelnuovo Beradanga and snag a plate of the last of the fresh tartufo of the season – "Go! And be sure it's shaved white tartufo over tagliatelle with nothing but butter…lots of butter." Okay. N ever had any before, and besides…anything with lots of butter has to be good. When the piping hot plate was decorously set before me, I honestly wasn't sure if I wanted to lose my…cool…or quickly find a trashcan to avoid having to ingest this very peculiar, icky- musky scented dish staring up at me. H ow ever, I s miled and decided that "w hen in Castelnuovo Beradanga,…" and commenced to eat. Truth is, it does grow on you. M y hus band and I both became dedicated tartufo fans and get pretty excited whenever we can score fresh tartufo in Italy. But we've met as many folks who abhor, unabashedly, this hard-to-get fungus as we have those that consider it a demagogue. Ma perché – why is this the case? The truffle loving (and proba- bly hating) scientists have also pondered this…and found some interes ting explanations . Interesting, but not very pretty. To make itself available for proliferation, this subterranean mushroom must somehow get the attention of forest creatures willing to dig it up and eat it. Once ingested, the job of uncere- moniously passing the remains is next, depositing spores that give life to the next generation of culinary delights. Fortunately, these little fungi have developed quite a good, if not sexy, strate- gy -- passing gas. A pheromone- type gas cons is ting of androstenone, a sexual hormone emitted by male pigs, is released by the truffle, creating a distinc- tively strong and pungent aroma. No wonder female pigs used to be employed to hunt down these knobby curiosities. Additional studies found that human brains are genetically wired with one of two types of receptors for the androstenone molecule. One variety translates the hormonal gas to a heady translation nigh on to euphoria; imagine an intoxicating layering of provocative s andalw ood, vanilla, rich leather, and a satis- fying earthiness. Those on the other side of the debate inherited receptor #2, causing distain at the nasal interpretation of putrid urine, sweaty armpits, or those socks left in the gym bag for a The white truffle holds the honorable title of being the most valuable substance in the world by weight, costing on average $3,600 a pound The Nefarious Tr uffle/Tartufo: Why You Love Them…or Despise Them week too long. A slice of the human population, fortunately or unfortunately, perceives very lit- tle at all w hen expos ed to androstenone. More recent studies point to microbes - yes, lowly bacteria - as one of the key players in cre- ating the prized scent, especially for the rarer white truffle. This finding may in part account for differing smells and perceived tastes in various types of truffles, as well as for fluctuating taste and quality in the same variety. As with wine, a few kilometers of distance or variation in miner- al content in soil can create a very different tasting product. If you fall on the that is just disgusting side of the argument when it comes to this coveted fungus, you've saved yourself a few bucks. While black truffle dishes can be had for less than a king's ransom in most central and northern Italian trattorias, a white truffle dish – if you can find one – will definitely set you back a few euro. In fact, the white truffle holds the honorable title of being the most valuable s ubs tance in the w orld by w eight, cos ting on average $3,600 a pound. A record-break- ing 4.16-pound white truffle uncovered in Alba, Italy recently sold for $61,250 to a Taiwanese connoisseur. No question which receptor surfaced in his genetic pool. And he'd better have found a lot of friends to share it with; Italian truffles quickly lose their unique scent and flavor as they lose water, peaking within the first 4 days of harvest. If you've not experienced this mysterious, unparalleled tasting, and quite visually unat- tractive oddity of the culinary world, there are any number of festivals in Italy during the peak fall months of tartufo harvesting that can help you decide which receptor your parents bequeathed. From the kick-off festival in Gubbio (Umbria), you can eat your way both south and north at a nice array of sagre (fall festivals), from Rome to Udine and places in between. And if you find yourself in a hate affair, no worries – most of these festivals take place in lesser known towns that offer all the glories that make Italy a land beloved. Buon appetito and pass the tartufo. Black truffles have a less powerful smell and are less complex Truffles are very versatile with the abi- lity to be used in multiple dishes A record-breaking 4.16-pound white truffle uncovered in Alba, Italy recently sold for $61,250 to a Taiwanese connoisseur

• Cover