L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE LIVIA HENGEL A s an avid traveler based in Rome for the past seven years, I've done my fair share of trips around Italy and have also spent many weekends exploring Lazio, a region that conveniently begins right outside my doorstep. I have to admit, I rarely venture abroad anymore because Italy's rich diversity continues to keep me mesmer- ized: my greatest satisfaction in travel has no longer been to get as far away as possible but rather to delve deeper into a familiar territory and pay homage to the intricacies of this splendid and varied land. As such, I'm a big proponent of traveling in the Lazio region, which is often overshadowed by Tuscany and Umbria to the north. Though Rome is the undeniable jewel of the territory, Lazio offers dozens of worthwhile weekend escapes that cover a w ide variety of interests, from visiting garden villas in Tivoli and beach towns in Sperlonga and Gaeta, to pho- togenic hilltop towns such as the Civita di Bagnoregio and Calcata. With fall coming up, I wanted to highlight one of my favorite cities that is often over- looked and provide a few good reasons for visiting it: Viterbo. Viterbo may not make any top 10 lists, but the medieval city is one of the most evocative in Lazio and has remained authen- tic and largely intact throughout the centuries. It is best known for being the seat of the papacy for two decades in the 13 th cen- tury, from 1257 to 1281, and for holding the longest papal elec- tion in history. Located 80 km north of the Eternal City, Viterbo was strategically located close to Rome, but away from its frequent civil unrest and the P opes began s eeking refuge there in the early 12th century. In 1257, Pope Alexander IV moved the P apal Curia to Viterbo and expanded the former bishop's palace, now named Palazzo dei Papi, to serve as the P ope's new res idence. The Palazzo dei Papi is one of the city's most important monu- ments, along with the Duomo di Viterbo, and features an elegant loggia supported by ornamental Gothic columns and arches. The building is particularly significant because it played host to the longest papal election in the his tory of the Catholic Church. Following the death of Pope Clement IV, the election stretched on from November 1268 to September 1, 1271 due to political infighting. The cardi- nals were famously locked into the building, "con chiave" (with key), until they came to an agreement; this is, in fact, the reason we refer to papal elec- tions as papal "conclaves". Viterbo is not just interesting for its his torical relevance though, but also for its fertile location between two volcanic lakes, Lago di Bolsena and Lago di Bracciano. This brings me back to the point about traveling to V iterbo in the fall, w hen fewer things warm the soul bet- ter than hearty Umbrian cuisine, red wine by the fire and a dip in thermal hot springs. Viterbo has been a renowned thermal area for thousands of years and long attracted the ancient Etruscans and Romans with its healing properties . The s urrounding countryside boasts numerous bubbling hot springs, heated due to an underground fault line that heats the water to 59 degrees Celsius, which cool as they reach the s urface to create natural Jacuzzis, perfect for an autumn soak. Like the Etruscans and the Romans, the Popes also shared an affinity for thes e healing w aters and in 1450 P ope Nicholas V constructed the first thermal bath structure, today appropriately named Terme dei Papi, or Thermal Baths of the Popes. With this prominent lega- cy, the Terme dei Papi are the best-known thermal pools in the area and are well organized to accommodate children, families and the elderly, providing loungers, lockers and more. This structure also offers mud treat- ments and numerous other treat- ments at an in-house spa. It's a nice place for a relaxing week- end getaway from Rome, spent soaking in hot springs that boast modern features and amenities. F or thos e more prone to adventure, Viterbo also has its share of wild pools that are free of charge and replete with charm precisely due to the fact they are immersed in their natural envi- ronment. Strewn across the lush countryside, some of Viterbo's lovelies t rugged hot s prings include Bullicame, which Dante even mentioned in The Inferno, P is cine Carletti and Il Bagnaccio, each located within short driving distance from the city. These natural spots are truly spectacular on brisk evenings, when you can take in the winter sunset, or even the stars, while soaking in white craters filled with rejuvenating thermal water, making for a truly relaxing – and photogenic – natural and cultural experience in the Lazio region. Viterbo (Lazio, Italy), the historic Palace of the Popes Not far from the city are numerous hot springs, many of them known since Roman times The characteristically medieval look of Viterbo streets and alleys. Photo: Livia Hengel Viterbo, city of the Popes

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