L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano P umpkins and fall go together like, w ell… pumpkins and fall! Pumpkin décor finds its way to store shelves before the sum- mer kiddie pools are marked for clearance, while loads of har- vested pumpkins are unloaded at supermarkets before the temper- ature drops below balmy. No need to watch for that first falling leaf; the appearance of ads touting a creamy pumpkin spice latte are evidence enough of the season's change. And if that doesn't scratch the itch, there's certainly something else pumpkin s pice you can eat, drink, bath in, apply, or scent your life with that will. It's fairly safe to say that most Americans equate fall with all-things-pumpkin. But what about our Italian brethren? In the Italian cucina (kitchen), le zucche (pumpkins) find their w ay into many a warm, delicious fall dish: tanta- lizing cappellacci (large tortelli type pasta) dressed in buttery sage sauce, creamy pumpkin risotto, savory pumpkin gnocchi, even pumpkin infused tiramisù grace tables across Italy when fall comes to call. While celebrated grandly in the kitchen, pumpkins s eem comparatively less revered as décor and commercial chattel in Italy. But that doesn't mean this orb-shaped squash doesn't hold its traditional place outside of on a plate. J us t as an A merican Halloween wouldn't be com- plete without the expected Jack- O-Lantern, so too it goes in Orsara di Puglia. A tradition of ancient roots, the "Fuoc Accost e Cocce Priatorje" (bonfires and heads of Purgatory) festival is celebrated during the night of November 1 st , Ognissanti or All Saints Day. With roots dating to a pre- Chris tian era, this all-night observance fills the streets of Orsara with fiery light and fes- tivities honoring the deceased. As dusk settles over terra-cotta rooftops, it's lights out through- out the town. Multiple bonfires of brush and ginestra are set ablaze and illuminate the dark streets. Tradition holds that the flames and sparks flying sky- ward attract the souls of the departed and purify them before they pass on to the next world. But how to find their way along that path to paradis e? P umpkins ! The fields are scoured for the finest specimens, which are then carved with faces and lit from within. Positioned along the streets, the glimmering displays are said to light the way for the departed, guiding them to their final rest. Sounds like our familiar Jack-O-Lanterns may have Italian ancestry. The region of Veneto shares a similar tradition, carving up their famous Mar ina di Chioggia "sea pumpkins." The eerie glow is believed to repre- sent resurrection and light the way for the dead as they traverse the canals on All Saints' Day Eve. Celebrated for its reputa- tion as one of Italy's tastiest pumpkins, this varietal might just have the opposite effect, causing that wayward spirit to hang around for a bite! At the far northern end of the peninsula, the Alpine town of Bormio celebrates a part of November 2 nd , All Souls' Day, by way of offering up pumpkins filled with rich wine for the passing souls believed to roam about on this day. It seems a rather fitting way to make the spirits feel relaxed and at home as pumpkins have als o been used historically in this area as containers for salt, fish, and other culinary goods. And cer- tainly, a pumpkin's worth of wine would appease any poten- tially disgruntled apparition floating about. A tradition more related to trickery than anything lofty is la morte secca in Tuscany…the dry death. Typically pulled from the patch by young boys, pump- kins were carved up with ghoul- ish faces and sometimes paired with clothing, candles inserted, then set upon walls or pathways at dark in hopes of frightening the unaw are…mos t likely accompanied by some prankish "Boos!" As part of the almost now -extinct Z oz z o (literally translated as "lacking morals") games of the countryside, this bit of fall mischief was allowed before Nonna got busy making zuppa di zucca out of the tools of the pranksters. Similar traditions were prac- ticed in the Emilia-Romagna region, but like a fres coed Madonna on an ancient church PAULA REYNOLDS Le zucche – it must be Fall! wall, they seem to have faded to nothingness with the passage of time. A less glamorous but practi- cal use for pumpkins in Italy is fall fodder for pigs. Some might say this is a bit ironic; pumpkins were often referred to in parts of Italy as "pigs for the poor." Traditionally grown in some rural regions for the sole pur- pose of bringing a smile to a pig's face, this autumnal treat is fed in hopes of adding a bit of girth before the "last call" in December. What might appear as a treat one day sure seems to turn into a trick the next for these fellows. Although it might make me feel a bit too comparative to the aforementioned pig… I, too, enjoy ingesting my share of pumpkin cuisine during the fall season. If I ever decide to claim some fame for something from my kitchen, it would have to be Pumpkin Bread. A fall staple, I've used the same family recipe for over 30 years…and might even say I have a cultish follow- ing of expectant gift-recipients each year! Paula's Pumpkin Bread • 3 ½ cups flour 2 tsp vanilla (Mexican always preferable!) • 3 cups sugar1 cup oil • 2 tsp soda4 eggs • 1 ½ tsp salt2/3 cup water • 3 -4 tsp cinnamon1 can pumpkin (2 cups) • 2 tsp nutmeg1 cup chopped walnuts • ½ tsp ginger* raisins and dates optional Instructions 1. P reheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Prepare 2 large or 3 medi- um loaf pans. I line mine with parchment for eas y clean up… of simply grease well and dust with flour. 3. Whis k dry ingredients together well. 4. Add wet ingredients, then mix thoroughly. S tir in chopped nuts. 5. Fill loaf pans equally; bake for approximately one hour or until toothpick comes out clean. 6. Glaze if desired. S o how ever you get your pumpkin on, enjoy — and Happy Fall! Carving pumpkins is a typical American activity, but it's actually a tradition in some parts of Italy, too Pumpkin bread: a heart warming autumnal treat LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE

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