L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 18 L'Italo-Americano Fubine Monferrato: a colorful journey to 'infernot' F ubine is evocative in autumn with the deep reds, yellows and browns of fall- en leaves. You hear the crackle underfoot as you walk the coun- tryside around the small town set amid the first gentle hills of the Monferrato region. Vineyards fan out in all directions, interspersed with castles and beautiful rural homes. About 60 kilometers south of Turin and 17 kilometers north- west of Alessandria, Fubine is steeped in legend, fine food and philanthropic ardor. Tradition says that Michele Balestrero from Fubine was one of 52 men aboard with Christopher Columbus on his flagship Santa Maria. The other two caravels, the Nina and the Pinta, were crewed by 18 men each.  Fubine is a peaceful place, but the impact of man can clearly be seen through an extremely inter- esting example of vernacular architecture that reflects local tra- ditions. Visitors especially arrive in this picturesque town of late- Roman origin to explore its splen- did 56 "infernot," which together became a UNESCO Heritage site in 2014.  "An infernot is an under- ground room dug into the Pietra da Cantoni rock (sandstone) to store the best bottles of wine," says Giorgio Sassone, an experi- enced guide to the rich history of the Monferrato infernots. Ancient and unique, infernots "have no lighting nor ventilation and can be usually accessed through a cellar," Giorgio says. "Their con- stant temperature and humidity create an excellent microclimate for the preservation of wine." "Being in our land, a territory of quality vineyards and noble wines, the infernots are closely related to wine culture. They are small architectural jewels, extra- ordinary works of art with a strong evocative impact. They illustrate the ingeniousness of men who made them," he says. "The origin of the name is uncertain, but infernot literally means 'small hell' because in Italian inferno translates as hell and the suffix "ot" in our dialect means small," says Giorgio. The term was probably coined "because an infernot goes down deep underground and the can- dlelight used created big scary shadows," he continues. "The word might also derive from the Provençal term 'enfernet' which means small narrow prison."  "The infernots represent a ver- nacular style that characterizes this territory from a geological point of view," says Giorgio. Monferrato wines are spec- tacular. Aficionados particularly enjoy Fubine's locally produced Barbera and Grignolino vintages. Dozens of Fubinesi were among the great mass of Italians who have emigrated to the United States since the 1800s. The Fubinesi were able to keep their affection for their native town alive by establishing the Fubinesi social societies of New York and of Connecticut. In New York, two Fubinesi families flourished in the circumscribed world of haute cuisine and helped create a certain refinement of lifestyle. Pietro Robotti, a native of Fubine, founded the Fubinese Society of New York in 1919 and in 1929 became the owner of Le Château Richelieu, a continental restaurant on the East Side of Manhattan noted for its high- priced elegance. The restaurant closed in 1983 and Robotti died in 1988. Fubine Mayor Dina Fiori says that Robotti was a benefactor to his native town. His donations built a school, repaired the church and supported an orphanage. Another great success story is that of the Maioglio family, who has been running the Barbetta restaurant at 321 W. 46th St. in New York since 1906. None of New York's dining rooms can quite match the pedigree or longevity of the Barbetta, an iconic restaurant specializing in Piedmont cooking. In the '70s the Barbetta began to import Grignolino and Barbera from its own vineyards in Fubine. Certainly the oldest restaurant in the theater area, the Barbetta has earned the admiration of film directors such as Woody Allen and politicians such as the Clintons.  A bastion of Italian fine din- ing in New York historically pop- ular with the show-biz set, the Barbetta is now owned and run by Laura Maioglio. She and her husband Dr. Gunter Blobel, win- ner of the 1999 Nobel Prize in Medicine, love to spend some time in their beautiful home in Fubine. The couple is active in philanthropic activities. Mrs. Maioglio's father Sebastiano introduced delicious treats to America such as bagna cauda and white truffles. Guests were delighted and somewhat baffled by the delicacies. His Italian clientele included tenor Enrico Caruso and conduc- tor Arturo Toscanini. I like to also relate the history of Fubine to that of Fiat Automobiles S.p.A., the largest automobile manufacturer in Italy, now a part of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles. Maybe Fiat would have never existed without the contribution of Count Emanuele Cacherano of Bricherasio, an eccentric woman- izer who was born in Turin in 1864 from a noble family that produced high-ranking soldiers and philanthropists. He died in mysterious circumstances at age 35. He rests in the Neo-gothic family chapel located in the Palazzo Bricherasio in Fubine, his summer residence, a 16th century listed castle. Giovanni Agnelli, Fiat founder, met Count Emanuele in 1898, while looking for investors for his horseless carriage project. Count Emanuele was a supporter of large-scale, production-line manufacturing and the creative Agnelli sensed the opportunity. The next year, Fiat was found- ed at Count Emanuele's Palazzo Bricherasio in Turin. The noble- man was also co-founder of the now famed Italian Automobile Club. Fubine is a peaceful place, but the impact of man can clearly be seen through an extremely interesting example of architecture, the infernot. Photo credit G. 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