L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2017 www.italoamericano.org 24 L'Italo-Americano U sed since ancient times for cooking, cosmetics and curative properties, saffron is the wonderfully aromatic queen of spices. The Greeks used it to fight toothache whilst the Romans used it in fish sauce recipes. And since the 1200s Italians have been growing it as a dye, a sedative and even an aphrodisiac. This month the old town of Città della Pieve celebrates 800 years of Umbrian saffron production with a festival dedicated to the spice. Here's the story so far. The history of saffron The history of saffron is, like the spice itself, steeped in mystery. Indeed the very origins of the plant from which it is plucked, the purple flowering crocus sativus, are unknown as it's not found in the wild and can't reproduce without human help. Horticultural historians think that we began to cultivate the goblet-shaped flower sometime between 4000 and 3500 years ago. What we do know is that one of the very first mentions of saffron in literature dates back to the 7th century BC when it was documented in an Assyrian botanical reference book. Mentions of true saffron and close relation, the meadow saffron, also pop up in the texts of most cultures and religions including Egyptian texts, Indian manuscripts and even the Bible's Song of Songs. Cleopatra was said to bath in saffron infused milk before romantic encounters. Buddhist monks still use saffron threads to dye their clothes and there are even links to it in the most ancient texts of Brahmanism and Judaism. But for all the eastern and Asian connections and over 80 species of wild crocuses distributed throughout the Mediterranean, botanical evidence seems to suggest that we have the ancient Greeks, or rather the Minoans of Crete, to thank for first cultivating and domesticating the modern saffron plant. And evidence of Greek use of the spice is abundant. From 1500 BC frescoes depicting the saffron harvest on the walls of the Palace of Knossos, to the pages of Homer's legendary tome, the Iliad, or from the pharmacological writings of Hippocrates, father of modern medicine, to the works of his medical descendant Galeno, saffron was widely interwoven into Greek health, cultural and even spiritual life. Saffron and Italy From Greece it was an easy hop and skip across the Adriatic to trade saffron with the Romans. Galeno, otherwise known as Galen, was one of the earliest physicians to help bridge the gap, prescribing saffron threads to Romans for all manner of ills. And the early Italians quickly took up saffron use in other areas of life, too. They were using so much – even spreading it abundantly like petals at the feet of Emperor on his triumphant return to Rome - that by the later years of the empire Romans had begun to grow their own. As the Roman empire ended, however, European saffron cultivation slumped. Two things would help its Italian Medieval revival a few short centuries later, however. First was the spread of Islamic people and civilization across parts of the Mediterranean reintroducing the saffron culture. And secondly, the arrival of the Black Death in the 1300s that ignited a surge in demand for saffron-based lotions, potions and curative medicines. Once again "red gold" was back in popularity. Vast quantities of Greek saffron were brought in through Venice and Genoa sparking a brief 2-week Saffron war when one spice shipment was stolen. This went on to stir a revival of Italian cultivation of the domesticated Crocus sativus in a few areas of Italian excellence. One of which was Castel della Pieve, now Città della Pieve, Umbria's oldest saffron city. By 1279 the protection of saffron growing and growers was written into local Pieve law through the Statute of Perugia that made it illegal for anyone other than local citizens to plant the crocus corms. Two hundred years later production of the spice was at such a level that it was taxable. Saffron production was a major asset to the Pieve economy and, by association, the Perugia economy too. And Umbrian saffron was ELIZABETH SALTHOUSE Z a f f e r i a m o – t h e i n t r i g u i n g s t o r y o f Pieve's saffron festival highly prized. Unlike its Iranian or Spanish cousins, Italian saffron is rare. Some even say that the color, aroma and potency are deeper, richer and more intense. And just like its counterparts, the price of Italian saffron soared due to the enormously labor-intensive harvest.Thankfully only 3 to 4 strands are usually required to boost a recipe or create a soothing remedy but it's still more than double the price of truffles and close to the price of caviar weight for weight. No wonder, then, that Pievans celebrate the harvest of this most precious of spices. Each year, as the autumn days shorten and cool, over 30 Pieve crocus farmers come together for a vibrant, saffron-infused weekend festival under the auspices of the Zafferano di Città della Pieve consortium. With cooking demonstrations in the main town square, saffron painting classes and dyeing workshops plus festive dinners, there's plenty with which to get involved. But the main attraction has got to be the mostra-mercato, a food market where you can satisfy your taste buds with tempting tasters and do a little shopping for your favorite foodie saffron souvenirs. Many producers also open up their farms so visitors can explore the spice's journey from bulb to bowl. You'll see where the arduous purple crocus harvest happens and watch as the rusty red threads are plucked from their purple hideaway before heading for drying. Back in the town lilac petals decorate the shop windows and windowsills of countless homes. The market place is laden down with all manner of aromatic saffron lotions, potions and nourishment. And with precious little space for gardens, keep an eye out for the creative window boxes and flower displays that line the narrow stone streets. It stems from friendly rivalry between neighbors but makes the town even more vibrant and beautiful, especially during the Zafferano festival. But nothing quite beats the purple and yellow hues that carpet the town and meadows around it. The crocus may be a little flower but inside its deep purple petals lurks the world's most expensive spice, the red gold of Umbria. And all it takes are a few short strands to elevate any dish. Simply beautiful! Città della Pieve celebrates each year the ties of Umbria with saffron LA VITA ITALIANA TRADITIONS HISTORY CULTURE Umbrian saffron is precious, more than any other variety in the world

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