L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 20 L'Italo-Americano THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30, 2017 I t's a scientific fact (as if we needed proof) that fresh salt air, serene blue seas, and sand sifting between our toes is the best stress busting recipe around. But when done Sicilian style, the experience elevates to 5- star gourmet status. Situated neatly in a crescent- shaped gulf facing the Tyrrheni- an Sea, Castellammare del Golfo lies midway between bustling Palermo and the tranquil salt fields of Trapani. This scenic waterfront town has embraced her natural harbor in a motherly hug for over two thousand years, as a succession of cultures have held rule. Aptly named for its original purpose – Sea Fortress of the Gulf – Castellammare del Golfo's stout medieval fortress has been on watch, holding off ne're-do-wells for some 1,500 y e a r s . T h e l i f e b l o o d o f t h e town, fishing, remains a hearty industry to this day, providing bounty from the sea. North-western Sicily's red- dirt rugged mountains seem to give up the fight as they soften and relax along the coast, easing into the still-steep by gentler paths, streets, and stairways that spill out onto the crescent sand b e a c h o f C a s t e l l a m m a r e d e l Golfo and her Cala Marina. The stunning sandy break offers a calming transition into the clear a z u r e w a t e r s o f t h e G u l f o f Castellammare, while an invit- ing array of waterside restau- rants and bars offer a fine place to park oneself and admire it all. Within a shell's throw from the sandy shore, six or so rows of perfectly aligned docks pro- vide tie-offs for marine craft of varying sorts: traditional blue and white fishing boats, sail- boats, small ferries, guide boats, skiffs, and kayaks. The overhead sun seems to look down like a stern capo (boss) directing the g o i n g s - o n a s t h e v e s s e l s g o about their individual purposes, each getting busy early on and returning to harbor in time for the ritual passeggiata. Wrapped belt-like around the harbor, a stone walkway pro- vides the perfect place for the evening promenade of old and young — some on foot, some on bike, some daring not to move at all, preferring chat and cin-cins. Alluring displays sit outside e v e r y c a f é , s h o w c a s i n g t h e day's catch of fish and sea life in hopes you'll choose this or t h a t f o r t h e e v e n i n g m e a l . Mounds of nylon fishing nets sit stacked along the promenade l o o k i n g l i k e o d d l y c o l o r e d haystacks, some harassed by busy fishermen intent on mend- ing while a hopeful cat or two prowls nearby. At the pinnacle of the walkway where the bulk- head meets the sea, Castellam- mare's imposing castello rises. Built upon castle ruins by the A r a b s a n d f u r t h e r e x p a n d e d when under Norman rule, the fortified structure is less than elegant, yet has done its duty since the 800's. With no modern worries of hostile takeovers, the castle now serves as a mildly interesting museum offering a peek into the old ways of fishing and early life in the region. The towering outline of the castello f r a m e s t h e t o w n w e l l . . . a n d makes quite an impressive back- drop for young lovers seeking solitude along the seawall. Castellammare is also home to several noteworthy churches worth a visit for their baroque PAULA REYNOLDS Castellammare del Golfo – Sicily's seaside treasure style and artistic works. In gen- eral, these are walkable from the harbor and offer a chance to intermingle in local neighbor- hoods and piazze as you dodge the boys playing street calcio and teenage daredevils on Ves- pas. O h , t h e a m e n i t i e s ! O n e w o u l d t h i n k t h i s c h a r m i n g coastal haven was akin to Lig- uria's Cinque Terre — overrun with tourists and on the well- beaten path. Surprisingly, it's not. Sure, Castellammare del Golfo has a healthy share of summer guests seeking the clear blue seas of the northern coast, but the aura here is unique – and somewhat overlooked by the masses. The charm and appeal of old Sicily seems to remain entrenched in this small town; traditional ways and the work- at-hand seem to supersede a need for being on a Top Ten Destination list, however good or bad that might be. Along with the obvious plea- sures of beautiful beaches and a picturesque marina, not to men- tion amazingly fresh seafood and fine local wines at every turn, a week in Castellammare can also offer an enticing variety of memory-making excursions, all near-enough-by and accessi- ble by car or public transporta- tion. A side trip to Segesta, the inland ancient city that most probably established Castellam- mare as a port, offers an amaz- ing peek at life around 500 BC. The incredibly intact, albeit never completed, Doric-style temple stands gigantic and stoic, impressing its admirers as it's done for over 2,500 years. And nearby, gracing the crest of Mt. Barbosa, sits the spectacular Greek amphitheater, posed like the diva she is atop grassy fields looking far down upon a sap- phire sea. The theatre is used during the summer for plays and e v e n t s ; n o n e e d f o r s p e c i a l sound equipment – the acoustics are stunning! Further west but doable as a day trip lies the irresistible town of Cefalù. A bit crowded and rowdy, the beach front is post- card worthy as bathers and boats and pastel buildings blend to make a memorable picture. The intermingling of heritages here push and pull to grab your atten- tion through architecture, food, and art. Offering a fine cultural e x p e r i e n c e , t h e c o n t r a s t t o smaller, slower paced Castel- lammare is notable, making a late night glass of zibibbo, that aromatic dessert wine beloved in Sicily, sipped on your hotel bal- cony even sweeter. And then there's Erice, a city so beautiful that even the poet Virgil extolled her virtues i n t h e A e n e i d , a l l o w i n g h i s fabled hero Aeneas to make a stop here. Bring your hiking shoes and take the climb up the legendary mountain of Eryx for a breathtaking view over the port of Trapani. Don't forget to take a peek at the ruins of the t e m p l e b u i l t t o h o n o r D i a n a some 1000 years before Christ. I f y o u ' d r a t h e r n o t b r e a k a sweat, stroll the cobbled streets while sampling the delights of the locally crafted fruit-shaped marzipan or a frosty granita, m a y b e w i t h s o m e g e l a t o o n top! Much to do, much to see in north-western Sicily – but the lovely prize at the end of the day remains: the return to Castellam- mare del Golfo. The soft glow of twinkling lights from docked vessels and harbor lights bounce and dance on the water as they w e l c o m e y o u b a c k , a l m o s t seeming to ask why you thought you needed to leave, even for a day. And maybe you didn't – b e i n g i n t h e m o m e n t o f t h i s inviting, peaceful seaside town is living la dolce vita in the best of Sicilian style. Castellammare del Golfo: the charm and appeal of old Sicily seems to remain entrenched in this old town ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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