L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano Rosso di Montalcino: in its own right M ontalcino has a way of wrapping its elf around you, first under your feet, a ter- rain that can be veined, cracked and rocky. You walk upon plane- tary impressions of solid terra firma. Next, the landscape of Montalcino invades your eyes: the territory's softer side of rol- ling hills, golden fields, gloriou- sly red poppies pour into you. You imagine more seraphic ori- gins. You sense a special place. Montalcino's landscape stays inside you, around you, until, in someone or something, you reco- gnize it once again. In the minds of most folks, the wine most strongly associa- ted with Montalcino's terrain is Brunello di Montalcino. Howe- ver, the zone's Rosso di Montal- cino is also a great transmitter of Montalcino terroir and quality, a wine to be appreciated and reco- gnized in its own right. Before we go much further, we need to sort the relationship of these two wines. Not because it is a difficult or confusing one. But, because, in some strange way, Rosso di Montalcino is minimized in the consumer mind due largely, in my opinion, to its unfortunate reference as a "baby Brunello", i.e., a diminutive Bru- nello. Not a convenient nickna- me considering the formidable brand presence of Brunello di Montalcino. Let's begin with a best practi- ce understanding: Brunello di Montalcino is a wine destined for long aging – often 10 to 30 years or longer – while Rosso di Mon- talcino is a younger wine that combines ample structure with its particular attributes of perfu- me, liveliness, and freshness. Rosso di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese as is Bru- nello. Production of each is con- trolled by two different technical specifications of their respective denominations. Producers are allowed to obtain the two deno- minations' wines from the same vineyards. Principally, it is the aging requirements before the wines' respective release-to- market dates which differ. Pro- duction regulations require lon- ger aging for Brunello di Montalcino before market relea- se, five years after the year of the harvest (six years for the Riser- va), vs. the first September of the year following harvest for Rosso di Montalcino. And it is there, with regard to aging require- ments — that is, younger vs. older — that the user-friendly though burdened reference to Rosso di Montalcino as a "baby Brunello" likely caught on. The important thing to under- stand: Rosso di Montalcino is a wine with a precise identity of its own, one to be appreciated and recognized for its ow n superb character and attributes, a top-shelf wine choice for even the most demanding of wine consumers. Rosso di Montalcino wines are typically a brilliant ruby color, harmonic and elegant. They offer an intense perfume, fragrant of fresh fruit. In the mouth, Rosso di Montalcino is deliciously dry, with vivacious energy, pleasantly gripping tan- nins, and a persistent finish. Although Rosso di Montalcino is a wine to be enjoyed young, most examples can age well for a couple/few years after release. Ros s o di M ontalcino is a wonderful accompaniment to a wide range of foods. You'll find it good company to many clas- sics of the Tuscan table such as pasta or polenta with meat sauce; entrées of veal, pork or poultry; mushroom risotto, pasta e fagio- li, ribollita, cured meats, chee- ses. If you are adventurous, you might try your hand at pairing Rosso di Montalcino with inter- national cuisines: for example, the earthy, mushroom-y nature of soy sauce – a taste profile not at all uncommon in Italian food – pairs incredibly well with San- giovese and thus Rosso di Mon- talcino.  The salt component of soy sauce, when tasted against Sangiovese, is good on my palate in the same way that I find the saltiness of regional cured Italian meats delicious when paired with a Sangiovese wine. High quality sushi / sashimi / maki, dipped in the traditional mixture of soy sauce and wasabi, and paired with a bottle of slightly cooled Rosso di Montalcino can be a sleek, minimalistic thing of culi- nary beauty. A nd if you're looking for something more ima- ginative than the "white wine with fish" evening, try Rosso di Montalcino paired with an oily fish entrée, fatty tuna, for exam- ple. The fis h oils , balanced by the slightly elevated acidity of Sangiovese, can be an incredibly sensual dining experience. Rosso di Montalcino wines are widely available. Recom- mended producers include: Armilla, Barbi, Capanna, Col di Lamo, Donatella Cinelli Colum- bini, Gianni Brunelli, Il Marro- neto, La Gerla, Lisini, Mocali, Tenuta Crocedimezzo, Uccellie- ra, Ventolaio. You can learn more about Rosso di Montalcino / Brunello di Montalcino on the Consorzio website for those wines, availa- ble in Italian, English and Chi- nese at www.consorziobrunello- dimontalcino.it. Tasting Note Capanna Rosso di Montal- cino Scents of cherries, strawber- ries and herb. Rich cherry-berry flavors, overtones of plum, bal- s am and tar. S mooth in the mouth, long on the finish. A sense of place and landscape remembered in this wine's irre- sistible counterpoint of structure and elegance. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, JANUARY 11, 2018 Although usually consumed young, Rosso di Montalcino can age well for a couple of years after release. Photo Credit, Il Marroneto Gallery, Wines Rosso di Montalcino is made with 100% Sangiovese, just like its most popular brother, Brunello. Photo Credit, Il Marroneto Gallery, Wines

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