L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano Verdicchio meets Chun Juan F rom its title, you might imagine this article an Italian-Chinese love story. It's not. Well, not exactly. This is a story about the personality and versati- lity of our protagonist, Verdicchio, one of Italy's most interesting na- tive white grapes. Although you may indeed feel some affection for our chun juan when finished rea- ding. Chinese chun juan, or spring rolls, are thin dough skins spread with finely minced vegetables, meat, shrimp and oysters, and rol- led into, well, a roll. I first met these delicious concoctions when my wife's parents, visiting from China, whipped up a batch of their hometown chun juan. As protagonists go, Verdic- chio is a colorful character. It speaks to you, first, directly from its name, which derives from the Italian verde, suggestive of the green reflections in wines made from Verdicchio. Or, as some experts prefer, refers to Verdic- chio's green-gold tinged grapes (though I suspect this would vary, i.e., specific to harvest time, area, clone, etc.). Verdicchio's main stock in trade is its high acidity, making wines that are crisp, refreshing and great with food. But, Verdicchio can age well, too, contributing to its conformable nature. In Italy, Verdicchio is cultiva- ted mainly in the Marche and is best recognized for its role in the DOC wines of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. Jesi and Matelica DOCs each require a minimum of 85% Verdicchio, and permit up to 15% of other allowable white grapes. Denomination rules allow for production of still white, sparkling, and dessert wines, giving further indication of Ver- dicchio's flexibility. Additionally, both Jesi and Matelica each have their respective DOCGs for riser- va level wines since 2010. Jesi's DOC also identifies a classico zone (Matelica's does not). Located closer to the Adriatic coast, Jesi tends to produce wines that are less muscular than those of Matelica, and with a more expansive fruit profile. Matelica's vineyards, planted further inland at higher altitudes, tend to produ- ce more restrained, structured wines of comparatively higher acidity and, in most examples, higher alcohol. Both Jesi and Matelica deno- minations identify a host of men- zioni geografiche, essentially geographic definitions akin to a subzone or cru, with the list for Jesi being the longer by far. Not surprisingly, of the two Jesi is home to a greater number of varied wine styles. That diverse growing conditions within the menzioni geografiche combine with fundamental differences between the DOCs' soil and macroclimates to influence diffe- rences in the wines is a good rea- son to avoid over-generalizing about Verdicchio from one zone or the other. That said, what remains constant in either case, is Verdicchio's racy acidity and a delicious note of almond that rea- ches deep into the finish. When it comes to Jesi versus Matelica, the best guidance is to taste wines from both denomina- tions to observe how they are dif- ferent and learn which you might prefer. If you're like me, you will likely enjoy the wines of both zones. I tend to look at the zones holistically rather than as compe- titors. Indeed, I often choose one over the other based on what's for dinner rather than direct wine-to-wine comparison. But there are always those folks who feel the need for the informed cue before deciding for left or right. So, I'll offer this: if you're looking for a more powerful wine, you might like to start with Matelica. If it's greater com- plexity you're after, consider the riserva level wines of either zone. Thank you for your attention thus far. I did not forget about the chun juan. As with pasta in Italy, local interpretation is the rule with chun juan. And they can be served either fresh or fried. My in-law's version from their local area in southeast China is filled with finely minced pork, tofu, shrimp, oysters and vegetables, stir-fried and combined in a magnificent mélange. Verdic- chio's clean, bright, fragrant cha- racter and lively acidity create a wildly attractive pairing with chun juan's fresh, subtly-exotic texture and flavors. I share this with you because it underscores Verdicchio's remarkable adapta- bility and food-friendly persona- lity. But, hey, you don't need to eat chun juan to enjoy Verdicchio. You will, though, be hard pressed to find better company than Ver- dicchio to traditional seafood antipasti or risotto, fish soups, or to accompany fried, roasted or grilled fish. Verdicchio also pairs well with white meats and mild cheeses. Best of all, Verdicchio is still a relative value. You can drink top shelf Verdicchio without coming anywhere close to breaking the bank. Recommended producers include Belisario, Bisci, Bucci and Sartarelli. Tasting Note Sartarelli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico. Straw- yellow color, faded emerald reflections. Round on the palate, notes of apple, peach, apricot, honey, almond, hints of herb and citrus. Supple structure, lively acid, persistent and satisfying finish. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2018 Verdicchio is perfect with fish dishes but also with some oriental food, such as Chun Juan Verdicchio is a colorful character: he speaks to you directly from its name, which derives from Italian "verde"

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