L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano PAULA REYNOLDS P art of the intrigue of Tuscany is the abun- dance of small ham- lets and villages. Scattered across the rural landscape like precious gems awaiting discovery, the charms and beauties of these ancient borghi are many. Off the SR2 thoroughfare from Siena on a south-easterly course, lightly traveled country roads lead to a rural wonderland. Through deep forest and vast farmland, amongst silvery olive groves that provide the famed Montisi oil and cresting green ridges that offer up cypress lined Tuscan skylines, lie the comune of Trequanda and her 3 villages of Montisi, Castelmuzio, and Petroio. The tiny village of Petroio is the last of these if traveling on a southerly route. Her topaz col- ored buildings sit proudly on an emerald hilltop, the mostly-intact medieval walls still at her defense. But like many other locales not on the well-trodden tourist trails, her delights are often overlooked. Rounding the bend on the out- skirts of Petroio, a vast industrial looking yard filled with super- sized terracotta wares appears amidst tall trees, along with a sign declaring "Petroio – Terra- cotta Capital of the World." The terracotta yard seems almost mystical with its red-earth pots sitting about like giant mush- rooms sprung from the clay. Just as one might begin to wonder if there are any humans nearby, Petroio comes into view. A large blue and white "P" sign announces parking outside the old walls, but the lack of a ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato – no cars allowed) placard almost dares a visitor to drive into the village. As I personally found out, this is probably not a good idea unless sitting atop a Vespa. The old town is accessed by a small one- way street that leads up the hill- side and into the main gate. Ancient buildings sit cozily across from one another creating angles and corners so tight, it becomes necessary to fold in car mirrors to clear them! Continu- ing its circuitous spiral through the town, the street becomes even narrower until finally merg- ing back out onto the SP 71 to Pienza. It's a driving gauntlet for even the most experienced. On-foot discovery of Petroio brings a visitor the kind of inter- action this village warrants. Any given day might find a handful of tourists wandering about, privy to daily life in this Etr- uscan-origin settlement. Locals go about their day, some holding employment in the lone bar or the few other commercial shops that serve the residents' needs. One hotel and adjoining restau- rant offer guests respite in peace- ful elegance. A few young fami- lies carry on here, as evidenced by the gleeful laughter of school children dropped off in the late afternoon, but the majority of the population are of pensioner age. It's a trade-off: the tourist bolus to the economy seems marginal, but village life is tranquil and uninterrupted. Despite the challenges to remain viable, Petroio exudes a strong presence, her anima (soul) deep and proud. Perhaps the stur- dy red Tuscan clay is a part of this, the material that is integral in keeping Petroio a major part of Italian terracotta production. The manufacture of terracotta goods in this area reaches back to Etruscan times, and has in all probability continued non-stop. A large redbrick chimney of a defunct terracotta factory just outside the old walls towers like a sentry, reminding the town of this rich history. Pride of work- manship is not in short supply here, either. Old world manufac- turing styles and the artisan spirit live on in at least two busy facto- ries a short distance from the homes of Petroio. The Fabbrica Artiginale Ter- recotte Artistiche, a terracotta production facility located about 4 miles outside of Petroio proper, produces products where much of the work is done by hand. Rich, local clay is machine- mixed with water, then hand pressed into molds that are also designed and made at the factory. Fine-tuning and shaping after unmolding is done by the crafts- men of the factory using person- alized spatulas, most handmade to fit individual physique and style. Like the hearts of those making these products, the wares are large: massive garden pots designed for trees or large plants are a specialty, as are trough-like planters. Ornamental pieces are also produced, all large scale. Another factory with deep roots in Petroio is Terrecotte Artistiche Senesi, located about 5 miles west of town towards San Giovanni d'Asso. Giuseppe Lorenzetti, the talkative and jovial owner, was born some 70 plus years ago in Petroio. By chance, I encountered Giuseppe on a recent passeggiata in Petroio. A brief conversation led to an impromptu tour of the town that he has called home since birth. A slow stroll through Petroio bespeaks of the proud heritage of terracotta production here. Many doorways are numbered with a terracotta plaque, whether it be simply house numbers or perhaps something whimsical the owner has requested. Shops are marked with beautifully crafted terracotta signs, and periodically an entire gallery of creations appears on a random wall. One ancient pas- sageway is lined with beautifully crafted terracotta tablets depict- ing the surrounding towns, of which Giuseppe proudly pointed out and explained to me. Off the tiny main piazza, the front entrance to an unassuming medieval chapel hosts a folk-art interpretation in terracotta of Bar- tolomeo Garosi, the man more commonly known as il Bran- dano. Born in Petroio, Garosi was a controversial 16 th century saint known for stirring up trou- ble with the authorities — but that's another tale to be told. And of course, flower pots and ornate planters abound, filled to over- flowing with whatever will grow in the season. Along with several churches and a few notable works of art, Petroio also offers the attraction of the Museo della Terracotta, located in a 13 th century palazzo. The museum houses a static col- lection of multimedia presenta- tions, alongside works both ancient and modern. Periodic exhibitions are hosted, as well. With advance notice, one can book a private tour of one of the nearby factories or even a take a lesson from a local artisan in crafting a pot! It's worth a stop here, in this self-proclaimed Terracotta Capi- tal of the World. A place to stroll through peaceful tiny streets and admire the hewn clay art in abun- dance, or enjoy an impromptu chat with a friendly local. Or simply stand beneath the anti- quated gate and admire the last rays of sun preparing Petroio for rest, in anticipation of yet another terracotta colored dawn. Petroio – the Tuscan Town of Terracotta Despite the challenges to remain viable, Petroio exudes a strong presence ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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