L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 34 L'Italo-Americano LA BUONA TAVOLA RECIPES COOKING TIPS SEASONAL DISHES THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2018 L igurian pride: focac- cia! Flour, water, salt and yeast, yet it's not bread... The word comes from the Latin "focus," that is, baked on live fire. Soft, fluffy, glistening with olive oil, de- licious! You can eat it on its own, with cheese or cold cuts. Focaccia was born by chance, as an on-the-go treat, or a "waiting" snack. Indeed, bakers had to wait several hours for bread dough to rise before making their loaves, so they started baking some of it when still unleavened, placing directly in the hot oven or on a burning hot slate slab. In the 16 th century, it became so popular it was even consumed during religious functions. Italy produces several types of focaccia, but the most famous are those co- ming from Liguria: beside its most traditional variety, about an inch high, with holes on its surface and covered in olive oil, popular is also cheese focaccia, which apparently has a very old history, and may date back to the years of the Third Crusade (1189). This type of fo- caccia is thinner than its basic, tra- ditional counterpart and is filled with a type of fresh cheese, giun- cata, which was - and still is - only available in Liguria. This focaccia, typical of the town of Recco, is an IGP (Indicazioine Geografica Pro- tetta) product, and became known as focaccia di Recco at the begin- ning of the 20 th century, when it was so popular it was rumored even the Infanta of Spain had the habit to visit the village to enjoy it. Buy well, buy genuine protec- ted Italian: choose DOP pro- ducts! Italy is the European country with the largest number of food and wine excellences: we boast 168 products meeting the strict regula- tions of DOP, that is, the set of rules guaranteeing all the processes for the production and transformation of a specific product take place in a well defined geographical area. DOP is a bona fide trademark that protects juridically our most traditional products from counter- feiting and, at the same time, it gua- rantees their authenticity to consu- mers. Aceto Balsamico di Modena Tradizionale, Parmigiano Reg- giano, Basilico Genovese are all special and unique both because of their natural environment (geo- graphical origin) and the craft- smanship involved in their prepa- ration or cultivation. These characteristics contribute to make them inimitable outside of such context. Buying a DOP product means to respect and value the tradition, culture and culinary wisdom of, in our case, Italy. Always look for its typical red and yellow symbol to be sure to bring home not only an excellent product, but a true little piece of Il Bel Paese. Don't say it's only salt: Tra- pani unrefined salt, a protected product Greyish in color, rich in magne- sium and potassium, but poor in sodium chloride, Trapani unrefined salt is still gathered by hand, as it was in the 14 th century. It was, however, the Phoenicians of 7th century BC to have understood its great potentiality first. In later ti- mes, saltworks consisting of a com- municating pipes' system connec- ted to the sea were created. During the summer salinari, the craftsmen gathering and packing this salt, are not many and cannot compete with the faster paced com- petition of industrially gathered and packed salt, even if its chemical and organoleptic characteristics are far superior. After the flood of 1960 de- stroyed the saltworks along the coast, the industry remained inac- tive until 1973, when State Mo- nopoly on salt was abolished and the industry finally resurrected. Today, the area is part of the Egadi Marine Reserve, home to a unique habitat and a crystal clear waters. Here, the wind lifts and carries around an extra fine, unrefined salt, extremely soluble and rich in iodine, known as sale scuma, or fior di sale, a true specialty which should get definitely more atten- tion. Traditionally used to flavor Flavignana's red tuna, it is also protagonist of some unusual pre- parations like the Trapani saltworks' chocolate and fior di sale cake. Italian Food Culture A Culinary Journey by L'Italo-Americano Traditional, wholesome and, of course, original Made in Italy: this is Italian food for you VARINIA CAPPELLETTI Trapani's salt industry has a long history, tied to the land and the culture of the area

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