L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MARCH 22, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano PAULA REYNOLDS I t was a crazy time, those 1960s, when bell bottoms ruled, Beatlemania was the rage, and every fashionable home had a lava lamp. It was also the time when an Italian business man and entrepreneur thought it a keen idea to bulldoze an entire village north of Milan to build his vision of an adult playground…a City of Toys. Small, rural Consonno sat rel- atively undisturbed in the foothills of the Italian Alps for centuries, its small population eeking out a living from the land. Never more than a spectator to the passing of time, the village was forced into an unwilling par- ticipant of decline after World War II when Italy began its two- decade economic boom – il miracolo economico. A some- what steady population of around 300 dwindled to about 60 by 1958 as many left for urban areas and the job opportunities found there. The New Consonno Count Mario Bagno, an entre- preneur of vision and wealth, was riding high on the wave of this economic boom, building roadways and airports through- out Italy. One such project in 1960 lead him face to face with Consonno – it was the "ah-ha" moment to his long-imagined concept of an Italian-style Vegas. Located a mere hour north of Milan, Bagno thought it the perfect location for a hedo- nistic getaway for Milan's upper crust, as well as a major tourist draw. The savvy businessman wast- ed no time. By 1961 he had cut a deal with nearby Olignate to finance and build a road from there that would connect Con- sonno to the main artery south. Upon completion, the road immediately became a thorough- fare for bulldozers and heavy machinery, their ominous rumble a metaphorical omen of what awaited the unsuspecting occu- pants. Before the ink was even dry on the 22.5 million lire trans- action and deed to the town (an equivalent of about 14,500 dol- lars), demolition of the village began. Some say the townsfolk weren't even aware of the plans until they saw the bulldozers at their doorsteps; however, the ini- tial reaction was favorable. The Count promised work and hous- ing to those who remained, as well as the economic benefits of a major tourist attraction where before there was bare subsis- tence. Centuries old structures quickly met their demise, leaving nothing but cleared earth and forgotten memories. Only the 13 th century chapel, its rectory, and the adjacent cemetery were spared. An entire hillside was dynamited to offer a better view of the Alps, while other massive land movement reshaped what nature had already sculpted. From the dust, Bagno's vision of a glitzy, glamorous playground began to take shape, rising like a garish phoenix from its ashes. Bagno's City of Toys The Count's vision for his "City of Toys" was grandiose: it would include architectural styles from around the globe for housing casinos, shops, restau- rants, music venues, luxury hotels, and more. A towering minuet rose above the commer- cial shops while the surrounding grounds sported Pagoda style buildings, some crowned with cannons – to fend off what, only Bagno knew. The entrance was a mock castle rising high, while other buildings resembled palaces, all designed to impress and awe. But almost like a foreshadow- ing, Bagno's project was fraught with mishap. Major landslides in 1966 and 1967 due to his topo- graphical rearrangements blocked the main roadway, decreasing the tourist flow that was already flocking to complet- ed attractions. Construction con- tinued, yet Bagno would change his mind mid-stream and demand a project torn down and begun again. He rushed headlong into plotting and configuring his fren- zied plans for a zoo, racetrack, basketball courts, fairground, skating rink, and more. The years between the late 1960s and the early 1970s were the short-lived heyday for Bagno's Vegas style get-away. A hotspot for weddings, weekend soirées, and adult-style play, Consonno, although never com- pleted, lived up to its reinvented image, as proclaimed on publici- ty signs: Consonno is Always a Party, Consonno – the Smallest but Most Beautiful Country in the World, in Consonno, the Skies are Bluer. By the mid 1970s, the town's appeal had waned, reflecting the downward spiral of the Italian economy. The few residents that had stayed on with high hopes did not reap much more than low wages and sub-standard housing. The last remaining local departed by 1975. With an air of poetic justice, mother nature delivered the coup de grâce when a major landslide, in 1976, sealed off Consonno, leaving her all but abandoned. Count Bagno, however, refused to let his vision die. In 1981, he repaired the washed away road — but this time, the tourists didn't return. Hoping for yet another phoenix-rising, he converted the minuet-topped building into a retirement home, hopeful that the peacefulness of the countryside would draw in residents. The project was met with some success; however, the Count's passing in 1995 left his survivors with zero interest in Consonno. Although the retire- ment home remained open until 2007, it was never maintained nor upgraded, and fell into great disrepair. As if to add insult to great injury, 2007 also found the remains of Consonno playing host to an unsanctioned event known as a rave – a weekend long drug and alcohol party. Consonno's glory days were nothing more than memories, now replaced by litter, trash, bro- ken glass, overturned statues, and graffiti. Consonno Rises Once Again – Kind of Tough and determined, Con- sonno's spirit is finding resusci- tation. And in unusual ways that would most likely delight Count Bagno. Accessible to a point by road, a reasonable hike leads the curi- ous to Consonno and what lies behind the security fence. Although entrance is not prohib- ited, there are signs warning of the dangers…go at your own risk. And they do. Photographers come in droves; the annual Hide and Seek Championship (Nascondino World Champi- onship) took place here in 2017; movies scenes, commercials, and music videos have found Con- sonno a perfect location. An association known as Amici di Consonno also strives to breathe life into the town. Due to their efforts, a renovated build- ing now houses Bar la Spinada – open every Sunday from Easter through October. Several small festivals are also organized and run by the Amici, all at the hands of volunteers who hold Conson- no and her memory dear. The heirs of Count Mario Bagno still retain title to Conson- no, and just like their forbearer, they have entrepreneurial plans. Blueprints stand ready for new residential and commercial build- ings where now stands decay, and all for sale for a mere 12 mil- lion euro. If you ever wanted to own a village… Consonno: Italy's abandoned "City of Toys" Consonno today: abandoned and a bit spooky However, when the sun shines, Consonno does have charm ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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