L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano Amarone della Valpolicella B alance: "a condition in which different ele- ments are equal or in the correct propor- tions," say the Oxford Dictionaries. For examples, you may consult video of Romanian- born gymnast Nadia Comaneci's gold medal performance on the ba- lance beam at the 1976 Olympics; wake early in the morning to wit- ness the moment of equilibrium that is neither night nor day; or open a bottle of well-made Ama- rone. Amarone, or more properly Amarone della Valpolicella, is re- cognized as one of Italy's finest and most important red wines. When made well it is, if nothing else, the magnificent result of things united by proportion and ba- lance, opposed to each other, perhaps, but in need of each other nonetheless. Formerly part of the Valpoli- cella DOC, Amarone DOCG was established as a separate zone in 2010. Made from partially dried grapes, it is a dry wine evolved from the sweet wine of historic im- portance to the zone, Recioto. The practice of making wine from dried grapes, a technique cen- tral to Amarone production, has existed since ancient times. The Consorzio for Valpolicella wines point out on their website that, "In the 4th century after Christ, Cas- siodorus, a minister of Theodoric king of the Visigoths, described in a letter a wine obtained with a spe- cial grape-drying technique." Known then as Acinatico, the wine was "…without any doubts a fore- father of Amarone," notes the Con- sorzio, adding that the production method for Amarone hasn't chan- ged since the days of Cassiodorus. Where the vagaries of fermen- tation left Recioto unexpectedly drier and less sweet, Amarone was born, with what we now appreciate as its characteristic, pleasantly bit- ter aftertaste of almonds, in effect, a dry version of Recioto. The process for drying grapes is a delicate one, requiring the right amounts of environmental humi- dity and dryness to avoid grapes suffering undesirable mold or rot. During the drying process, or ap- passimento, loosely-packed grape clusters are carefully selected and laid out in a single layer (to maxi- mize air circulation) to dry in spe- cially designed containers, concen- trating grape sugars and extract. Then, containers are moved to drying buildings - sometimes sim- ple open air structures, other times modern temperature-controlled buildings (heat-induced drying is not allowed) – for storage. Grape clusters are constantly monitored for quality, occasionally requiring repositioning in order to avoid (unwanted) mold or rot. Having lost a good deal of their original weight during the drying process – 40 to 50 percent - the partially raisined grapes will yield only about half of the wine they might have produced as fresh-picked gra- pes. When the drying process is complete, about 3 to 4 months, a final quality check of the grapes is performed, and they are pressed. If all this sounds labor intensive, it is. On the occasion of parting with hard-earned dollars to pur- chase wine, one sometimes won- ders what the expense could pos- sibly be about. Knowing of the cautious, time-intensive labor in- volved in making Amarone - not to mention the 50 or so percent re- duction in wine yield as a result of the grape drying process - even the tightest wallet can open a bit easier at the cash register. Corvina, a native Italian grape variety especially at home in Val- policella, is the principal grape in Amarone. Known for scents of red cherries and violets, it constitutes 45 to 95 percent of Amarone's blend. Corvina's thick skin is well- suited to air drying, a small detail that worked out just the right way for Amarone lovers. Corvinone, another native variety, is also a key player in the Amarone blend, although the percentage of Corvi- none may not exceed that of Cor- vina. Other typical Valpolicella grapes, especially Rondinella and to a lesser degree Molinara, Croa- tina and Oseleta, are allowed in small percentages, as are certain international red varieties. To refine the wine, Amarone is aged in wood, 2 years for rosso, 4 years for riserva. Amarone can age well for many years yet is also a wine that consumers can appreciate in its youth. Deeply colored, with jam-like notes of fresh and dried fruit, Ama- rone is warm in the mouth, showing hints of nuts and spice and a typical velvety sensation of ripe- ness (attributable not to sugar but to a high level of glycerine). Whether or not Amarone's acidity can counterbalance its considerable body and density of flavor is a point of success or failure, an in- tersection where balance plays an all-important role in evaluating the wine. Recommended producers in- clude Allegrini, Bertani, Brigal- dara, Masi, Monte Zovo, Speri. Tasting Note Monte Zovo AmaronePlentiful notes of dark berry fruit, plum, and brown spice, sewn together with a thread of kirsch-like flavor. Lu- scious and warm in the mouth, the wine gains polish from its time in oak. Fine knit tannins, notes of anise and baking chocolate on the finish. Cellar potential. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, MARCH 22, 2018 Amarone is recognized as one of Italy's finest and most important wines. Photo Credit Monte Zovo Amarone is special because it is made with dried grapes. Photo Credit Monte Zovo

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