L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 5, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano PAULA REYNOLDS T our Guide: And up ahead of us is the famous Colosseum. Tourist: Ooooo… wow! I've dreamed of this my whole life! Tour Guide: From there, we'll go on and explore the Forum, followed by a tour of the Vatican…. Tourist: I'm so excited! Tour Guide: And before we go our separate ways, we'll visit The Pyramid of Cestius. Tourist: Huh? In Rome… a pyramid? Indeed, in Rome! Rife with ruins and monuments that remind of the grandeur of Rome's ancient heyday, the height of the Roman empire was also a time of enrap- ture with all things Egyptian. By 30 BC, Rome had effectively besieged and conquered Egypt (remember the story of Caesar, Cleopatra and Mark Anthony?). This victory gave way to an influx of Egyptian statuary, arti- facts, and infatuation throughout Rome. Augustus redecorated the Circus Maximus with a massive 13th century BC Egyptian obelisk or two, one of which now towers over Piazza del Popolo. At least seven other obelisks still stand proud throughout Rome as silent reminders of the days when Egyptian style ruled the day. One high ranking ancient Roman by the name of Gaius Cestius must have been particu- larly taken with this fad. Cestius was a member of the Epulones, a sector of priests that were the main party planners for feasts and public banquets. Whether his occupation had any bearing or not on his decision, Cestius wanted to be remembered in a boldly fashionable manner. A towering pyramid as a burial tomb would certainly do the trick! Construction of the shrine took place sometime between 18 and 12 BC, the exact year not recorded. Inscriptions on the outer tomb walls include notation stating that Cestius' will decreed completion within 330 days– a bit faster than the 20 years or so required for Egyptian counter- parts. Although there's nothing to shed light on why 330 days was the magic number, might it be that his heirs would not receive their inheritance unless this criterion was met? One of the great mysteries that will remain lost to time. Concrete overlaid in brick, then covered in prestigious white marble from Carrara, gave shape to the towering structure, all firmly supported by a massive travertine base. The steeply nar- row 121-foot-tall (exactly 100 Roman feet) design was more like that of ancient Nubian pyra- mids, which scholars surmise reflects on Rome's expansion into Nubia in 27 BC. A single vault decorated in frescoes was the final resting place for Ces- tius, yet it's unclear what became of his remains. The remnants of a narrow tunnel above the vault suggest that the grave was van- dalized centuries ago, and what- ever was left to rest in peace cer- tainly did not. The pyramid lies well within the city limits of Rome today; however, at the time of its con- struction, the site was far from town as custom would have it, settled in and amongst other bur- ial sites. However, Rome's impe- rial era brought rapid expansion, and soon Cestius' tomb was swallowed up by the growing city. Between 271 and 275 AD, thrifty city planners decided to incorporate the pyramid into the Aurelian Walls that were under construction. Not only was it eas- ier to include the immense struc- ture, it was also cheaper and time-saving in light of the need to complete the walls quickly due to increased attacks against Rome. Just like all fads, Rome's fas- cination with Egyptian trappings waned, and Cestius' pyramid became just another monument fading into the city panorama. Fortunately, the decision to include the pyramid as part of the Aurelian walls guaranteed its longevity, unlike Rome's "other pyramid" – the Pyramid of Romulus. Little is known about this structure, believed to have been built in the same era as Ces- tius'. The origins of both pyra- mids had been forgotten by the Middle Ages and popular lore of the day held that the tombs were those of Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome. Historians denounced this legend, but there was no question that the less for- tunate pyramid was dismantled around 1500 to be repurposed as the steps to St. Peter's Basilica. Life goes on, as they say. Memories of the splendor of Cestius' tomb faded, and the pas- sage of time gave way to vine and flora overtaking the struc- ture, all but obscuring it from sight and curiosity. However, in the late 1600s, a construction crew digging a tunnel to access the fortified walls found the giant edifice in their path. Interest was rekindled, and restoration began. The interior tomb was accessed -- sans contents – and showed what remained of the faded frescoes. It seemed as if Cestius memory might now live again with the renewed intrigue of residents and curious tourists. And it did for a brief while, at least long enough to be reclaimed and given a chance for revived appeal for this piece of priceless Roman history. Its location, how- ever, seemed to be its albatross – how many tourists would make a point to leave the heart of Rome for the Testaccio neighborhood where not much more than a cemetery and a bustling neigh- borhood…and a pyramid…exist- ed? Fortunately, the late 1700s into the 1800s brought a resur- gence of interest via programs that brought upper-crust young adults on educational travel excursions throughout Europe. Missing the chance to see the only pyramid in Europe was unthinkable, and once again The Pyramid of Cestius became a dot on the tourist map. This resuscitating breath of life was to last…or at least keep the heart of appreciation beating. Poets such as Shelley and Hardy made note of the towering testa- ment to Gaius Cestius, creating interest amongst the literary crowds of the day. A handful of continued restorations have taken place over the decades, the latest as recent as 2011. The once rela- tively overlooked Testaccio neighborhood now supports a healthy food tourism industry, bringing groups to admire the pyramid as they enjoy the delec- table bakeries and restaurants that abound. Its once-grimy exterior, mot- tled gray with centuries of wear and pollution, was fully restored in 2013 with funding from a Japanese business man. Regular cleanings are now carried out by free-climbers to avoid the need for scaffolding. As of 2016, the gleaming Carrar marble walls of the pyramid greet limited tour groups, entrance granted only on alternate weekends with a sanc- tioned guide. Was the intent in Cestius' heart merely to be laid to rest in the utmost fashionable manner of the day, or perhaps something loftier? The modern observer will never know. Regardless, he achieved notoriety with his gleaming tower of marble that still draws the awe of all who take time to pause and view this "one keen pyramid with wedge sublime" (Percy Shelley). The Pyramid of Cestius: Rome's claim to pyramid fame The Pyramid of Cestius was built between 18 and 12 BC, even though the exact year is not known The Pyramid of Cestius became part of the Aurelian walls that run around the capital: this saved them from neglect and possible destruction ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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