L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, APRIL 5, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 16 L'Italo-Americano MARIELLA RADAELLI T he road into the Hyblaean Mountains snakes left and right, hugging the hillsides as the flora turns from spartan scrubland to holm- oak forest. It's hard to not notice, after the 40 km drive up from the gem city of Siracusa, Sicily. Then the village of F erla blazes out before our eyes, full of surprises. The hill village that takes its name from Iohannes de F erula, a local baron in the 1200s, was all but destroyed in 1693 by an earthq uake that shook the bones of the whole is land, but w as rebuilt s oon afterwards in sinuous Sicilian late baroque style that remains untouched. We sit outdoors in a café in the April sun. The wind gives its full silken whisper. In the sun- shine, an old woman looks up from her knitting. She greets us in Ferla dialect. The layout of the small town is Greek cross-shaped: "It is a reminder of the Greek colonies that founded Sicily and also of the Christian roots of our peo- ple," says archeologist Floriana Raudino, spokesperson for the mayor. Here, last week Holy Week religious parades were spectacu- lar for their artis tic quality, pathos and devotion: they ranged from the arres t of J es us (u Signuri a canna), his crucifixion and the Laying in the Tomb (u Signuri a Cascia) to the Grieving Madonna wearing a black cloak (Madonna do scontru) desperate- ly seeking her son (u Gesum- maria) in the darkest alleys. Attorney Giuseppe 'Pippo' Rollo has returned home for the Easter season. "I was born in Ferla but moved to Philadelphia in 1976 to attend Villanova Uni- vers ity, w here I received a degree in Political Science and one in Law," he says. "Nonethe- less I have traveled to Ferla almost every year and at times more than once a year. Ferla has been recognized as one of the Borghi più belli d'Italia," he says proudly. "Through dynamic and cre- ative leadership the town is at the forefront of the recycling efforts in Italy," he says.  "It is perfect as a retirement destina- tion because prices for homes are very low and the quality of life, including organic food, air quality and warmth of the peo- ple, is very high." "It could and should be an ideal place for many retirees who are seeking to enjoy some serene years at an affordable price. I personally intend to spend more time here," Rollo says.  The lawyer has promoted and facilitated regular visits from the US, Germany and other European cou ntries "for the express purpose of persuading people to settle in the town and thus ensure its survival," he says. F erla's baroque churches with their swirling façades bring a sense of drama. They are a treasure trove. "You marvel at the statues inside the Saint Anto- nio Church. You sit down and realize there are sculptures hid- ing behind paintings. You feel wonder at seeing that," says Flo- riana. In July the town celebrates San Sebastiano, its patron saint. The main piazza was named in honor of him. The imposing Saint Sebastian Church sits there in its 'combined' splendor with the Mother Church of St. James a few meters away. Ferla is also a gateway to the breathtaking plateau of Pantalica, a UNESCO Heritage Site, in Anapo Canyon: its limestone cliffs and deep gorges are honey- combed w ith around 5,000 neolithic tombs. But new life is also breathing in these rural communities. "Younger generations of Fer- lesi are going back to agricul- ture," notes F loriana. "They grow our village economy, com- bining their grandparents ' know ledge w ith innovation. They realize what a modern, challenging career agriculture is as a profession." Startups are turning local pro- duction of extra virgin oil from Tonda Iblea into a promising business. "Our extra virgin olive oil is excellent, tas ty and extremely healthy." There are also signs of revival on other fronts. The village mayor has come up with a winning idea of creat- ing a Borgo Albergo, a new con- cept of slow tourism that differs from the Albergo Diffuso model. "We act as a go-between for the heirs of apartments that were abandoned and recently renovat- ed. Visitors live an authentic rural experience in homes that carry the names of the old own- ers," explains Floriana. The town boasts the first pub- lic holistic center in the country where any resident can experi- ence or learn about reiki, shiatsu and yoga. Bruno Mollo and his wife J os ephine, a couple from Philadelphia, are thrilled with life in this fascinating place per- fect for a self-contained vaca- tion. "We bought a vacation home and we are asking many other friends in the USA to do the same," he says. Bruno left Naples at the age of 15 along with his parents. "America gave us a great life but Italy remained my far-aw ay mother," he says. "About eight years ago during a trip with attorney Joseph Rollo and his wife Annamaria we dis- covered this jewel. Echoes of the Italy of my youth resound in this borgo where I had the great plea- sure to spend time with former first lady Laura Bush. She was amazed by its beauty." "Here you walk even at 2 am without any fear. The mayor Michelangelo Giansiracusa and his administration are doing a great job keeping the town safe, clean and rich in activities. Ferla is close to the necropolis of Pantalica, which is UNESCO protected. Photo: Marco Garro Holy Week is an important moment in Ferla. Photo: Marco Garro ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES Ferla, treasure trove of the Hyblaean Mountains Ferla's architecture is mostly Baroque. Photo: Marco Garro

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