L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano Getting to know Prosecco Col Fondo A lthough the bubbly li- bation from Italy's Veneto known as Prosecco has been steadily rising in po- pularity among consumers, you may not yet have had occasion to meet Prosecco Col Fondo, a friz- zante style of Prosecco that is win- ning fans of its own. Prosecco Col Fondo stands apart from Prosecco wines produ- ced using the more widely adopted Charmat method not only for its unique flavor and aromatic profile, but also for its particular method of production. Col fondo means "with sedi- ment," that is to say, Prosecco Col Fondo is bottled on its own yeasts, i.e., sur-lie, undergoing a second fermentation in bottle. (Charmat method fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tank, leaving spent yeasts behind). Yeasts con- sume sugars, slowly creating car- bon dioxide gas and … voilà… bubbles. Spent yeasts remain in bottle, a part of "col fondo" good- ness. The result is an intense, com- plex Prosecco with a decidedly unique personality. It should perhaps be said that "col fondo" is a method likely di- scovered by chance as sugars from still-bottled Prosecco unexpectedly caused second fermentation while resting in the cellar. That may or may not be the case, but it's of no matter, really. Inasmuch as it pre- dates the broad introduction of Charmat method, the relevant point is that "col fondo" is reflec- tive of an important part of Pro- secco tradition, linked to a time before modern Charmat became the most popular method of pro- duction in the territory. To be clear, Prosecco Col Fondo provides a different sensory experience from Charmat produ- ced Prosecco. If you're used to the extreme clarity of the latter, don't be surprised by the beautifully pale Prosecco Col Fondo, a result of its retention of sediment in bottle. Do expect from Prosecco Col Fondo complexity and exquisite texture, notes of bread crust, yeast, ripe fruit and bright acidity. As is true of Prosecco in gene- ral, Prosecco Col Fondo is not just for celebratory quaffing. Prosecco are indeed great food wines, clea- ning the palate, leaving it refreshed and ready to fully taste next bites. But, I must tell you, Prosecco Col Fondo is truly one of Italy's "pairs with anything" wines and is to be enjoyed throughout the full meal. Prosecco Col Fondo grandly ac- companies foods from gourmet burgers to charcuterie to pasta di- shes, fish, and spicy Asian and In- dian cuisine. I am quite aware that Prosecco Col Fondo is not exactly main- stream on the wine market radar. In fact, when inquiring of it at the shop of a well-known wine mer- chant – one with a considerable representation of Italian wines – I was met with blank stares. Consi- dering Prosecco Col Fondo's abi- lity to issue deliciousness, it is to my utter shock that, at this writing, to drive 30 minutes in any direc- tion could not connect me with a bottle of the stuff. I can only say to importers, distributors, retail shop owners, and restauranteurs: a very big and delicious boat called Prosecco Col Fondo is sailing and you are currently not aboard. To consumers, I say, do not knock, but pound on the doors of these respective establishments to ask after Prosecco Col Fondo. To be clear, I am not suggesting that you transition from drinking Charmat-produced Prosecco to Prosecco Col Fondo. Rather, I am simply pointing out that Prosecco Col Fondo is a style of Prosecco to be appreciated and enjoyed from time to time, one that can bring added pleasure and depth to the Prosecco and dining experien- ces. Interesting tasting tips on enjoying Prosecco Col Fondo in- clude this one, found on the com- pany website of producer Mali- bràn: "FOR A BETTER TA- STING" Before the tasting , the Sur-lie should rest for a few days, in a vertical position, so that yeasts can fall down to the bottle's bottom; it should be poured into a decanter and we suggest pouring the remai- ning yeasts into a glass, so that you can have a taste of the pro- secco's heart, the heady refermen- tation scent and the memory of a past that still lives in the moderns sparkling's making process tech- nologies." Still other producers, such as Bele Casel, whose wines I greatly admire, recommend gently turning the bottle upside down and then right side up in order to disperse the sediment and enjoy the wine's cloudiness. Perhaps there is a good and ju- stified opportunity here for a bit of self-directed education: buy two bottles of Prosecco Col Fondo and experiment with each tasting tip. Notable producers offering Prosecco Col Fondo include: Bele Casel, Ca' dei Zago, Drusian, Ma- libràn, Zanotto. Tasting Note Bele Casel Col Fondo And they say Nebbiolo chan- ges in the glass!? A merry-go- round of complex aromas and ta- stes, orchard fruit, rising bread, floral scents, and bread crust. Ele- gant, at moments delicate, with palate-cleansing crispness and splendid texture. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, APRIL 19, 2018 It is delicious with everything, but try it with fish Prosecco Col Fondo differs from other Prosecco wines because of the way it ferments

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