L'Italo-Americano

www.italoamericano.org 32 L'Italo-Americano Verduno Pelaverga: dangerously romantic F ifteen years after the creation of the Verduno Pelaverga DOC, the wine made in Italy's northwest from grape variety Pelaverga di Verduno is still largely unknown. Anyone who disagrees may likely have been within ear shot of New York City where Verduno Pelaverga made some noise, more like a whi- sper, around 2006. Most of what you might read about Pelaverga di Verduno con- sists of writers lamenting the fact that there is little in the Italian wine literature about the vine, making it difficult to research the variety. In fact, on the website of Consor- zio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, the page for Pelaverga states that, "The ori- gins of this prestigious varietal are lost in the mists of time." As true as that may be, and con- sidering that a small group of wine critics and fans have been recep- tive to Verduno Pelaverga, the wi- ne's lack of renown still strikes me as a bit unusual. Because, for all of the popular romantic narrative surrounding wine, Verduno Pele- verga is one of the most genuinely romantic wines I've tasted. Indeed, at least one importer of Verduno Pelaverga reports that local Ver- duno lore claims the wine to be "…a natural aphrodisiac, its spicy nature inspiring equally spicy behavior" (North Berkeley Im- ports). Verduno Pelaverga, the wine made from indigenous Italian va- riety Pelaverga di Verduno (more properly referred to as Pelaverga Piccolo) is produced only in the commune of – you guessed it - Verduno in the Piedmont region of Italy. The old real estate mantra of "location location location," spoken when meaning to under- line the advantage of a building being situated in a good neigh- borhood, may well apply to the astute purchase of property. But, in the case of Verduno Pelaverga, being located in the well-regarded neighborhood of Barolo (and other great Piedmont wines) has perhaps contributed to its remaining rather outside of the spotlight, oversha- dowed by the area's more famous and commercially successful wi- nes. Keeping that in mind, I can't help but imagine how great might have been producers' temptation to blend Pelaverga di Verduno with other local varieties, Neb- biolo or Barbera for example, in an effort to capitalize on the lat- ter's brand recognition, especially inasmuch as there is a traditional blending precedent. For not suc- cumbing to whatever commercial pressures they may have faced, for having the courage to take on risk inherent in experimenting with monovarietal bottlings, pro- ducers of Verduno Pelaverga are to be commended. Without regard to a lack of fame, there is much to love about Verduno Pelaverga. The bright red coloration of these wines - not a deep red hue, but a lighter, char- ming shade of that color recalling sunset red tempered with a bit of moonlight – is to be admired. Li- vely acidity underscores flavors of small red berry fruits giving an overall palate sensation that is cri- spy and ripe. The aromatic profile that includes scents of red berries, flowers, savory herb, and a typical note of peppery spice, is as ro- mantic as a plaid blanket and brown rattan basket on a summer- time picnic. Easy on tannic grip, Verduno Pelaverga wines have complexity and structure, yet drink without the austerity that one can meet with Barbaresco or Ba- rolo. Depending upon producer/style, Verduno Pelaverga can vary in weight from light to medium to approaching full bo- died. All in all, Verduno Pelaverga wines are unique among Piedmont wines, are massively drinkable and wonderful company to food. Total production of Verduno Pelaverga is still quite limited. But, thanks to the efforts of what few producers make the wine, things seem headed in the right direction. Over the last 25 or so years, plantings of Pelaverga di Verduno have increased six fold to approximately 20 hectares with 12,200 cases produced in 2014 (Italianwinecentral.com). With a growing awareness of and appre- ciation for Italian wines made from Italy's native wine grapes, I am optimistic that the fan base for Verduno Pelaverga will continue to expand, with sales gaining more traction in peripheral US wine markets. Enjoy Verduno Pelaverga on the young side, that is to say, two or three years from vintage. Con- sider serving with a slight chill. The wine pairs wonderfully with chicken, fish, pasta, salumi, paté, quiche, and vegetable plates. Recommended producers in- clude Burlotto, Cantine Ascheri, Fratelli Alessandria. I cannot promise that drinking Verduno Pelaverga will improve one's love life. But, I can say with reasonable confidence, that the connection between the wine and this article's title is best left to ro- mantic imagination. Tasting Note Fratelli Alessandria Ver- duno Pelaverga Speziale Scents of strawberry, rasp- berry, red cherry, flowers, savory rosemary, thyme, and white pep- per spice. Flavors of small red berries and red plum marry with lively energy on the palate, ever so slight tannic grip, and an ap- pealing bitter note on the finish. WINE NEWS TRENDS PROFILES JOEL MACK THURSDAY, MAY 3, 2018 Verduno Pelaverga is a lesser known red of Piemonte, produced in the same areas as Barolo. Photo Credit, Fratelli Alessandria The bright red coloration of Verduno Pelaverga is to be admired: it is the hue of sunset red, tempered with a bit of moonlight

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