L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, MAY 3, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 12 L'Italo-Americano M essina in north eastern Sicily is a sadly forgotten capital of the Ital- ian island. Cruise ships arrive, and their passen- gers are whisked off to nearby tourist Mecca Taormina, while other tours leave it off their itiner- ary completely. This city, with its naturally formed port, lives wedged between the Peloritani mountains and the Strait of Messina looking out onto main- land Italy. Many people think there isn't much left of the origi- nal city after the 1908 earthquake, tsunami and World War Two. In reality, it has been lovingly rebuilt by the Messinese and still offers many things for visitors. The mythological and metaphorical giants of Messina, rather than destroying it, have been absorbed into its identity, making it a city full of life which continues to pay respect to its his- tory, folklore and religion. Despite the suffering it has been through, this place is redeemed by a deeply ingrained faith and deter- mination to reinvent itself. Today, Messina's wide streets are welcoming, lined with orna- mental trees and filled with an eclectic mixture of architectural styles, from modern, to Art Nou- veau and Medieval. Slipping off the ferry from the mainland, every passenger is only a short walk to the centre of town. Cruise ships stop practically in front of the town hall (municipio) at Palazzo Zanca. The palatial building is open to the public, so they can marvel at its impressive neoclassical architecture and ornate marble interior. It is only a few minutes walk from Piazza Duomo, which literally is the beating cultural heart of the city. Next door to the town hall is the Teatro Vittorio Emanuele II, an intimate classical style theatre, one of many buildings recon- structed after the earthquake. Inside the theatre, there is a sur- prising fresco by well known Sicilian artist Renato Guttuso, depicting the myth of Cola Pesce. The legend of Cola is retold all over Europe, the Sicilian version tells of the half man half fish and his adventures which take him under the island, diving with mer- maids and dolphins. The bell tower peaks over the other buildings behind the town hall and naturally draws you into the main square where the stun- ning cathedral and fountain of Orion occupy the sun filled Piaz- za Duomo. The fountain is dedi- cated to the legendary Greek hunter Orion, son of Poseidon, and it commemorates his partici- pation in the mythology of Messi- na. Orion with his great strength built the promontory which forms the natural harbor so central to the city's identity. At the apex of the tower, right near the main bells, there is the lion symbol of Messi- na, complete with royal crown and flag, that proudly roars out over Piazza Duomo while waving his flag at the tourists below. The Duomo, with its elegant Norman façade filled with intrigu- ing decorations, is at the centre of the piazza. The ornamentation continues inside the cathedral with elaborate floor patterns, Romanesque columns, hand painted wooden beams and numerous white marble statues dedicated to saints. The Christ the Redeemer mosaic at the front apex of the church recalls the pre- cious Sicilian mosaic style of many other famous churches on the island. The cathedral also houses one of the largest organs in Europe and, downstairs, there is a museum which displays many precious gold and silver pieces of altar ware and religious artwork, recovered from the original sanc- tuary. Most of the salvaged artworks rescued from the many churches and palazzi after 1908 are housed in the Regional Museum, along with some precious early Medieval religious works, a piece by Renaissance master Antonello da Messina and two masterpieces painted by Caravaggio on his visit to the city in the early 1600's, The Adoration of the Shepherds and the Resurrection of Lazarus. Across from the Duomo is the Church of the Santissima Annun- ziata dei Catalani, which is sever- al steps below the street and is one of the few buildings to have survived the 1908 earthquake. This beautiful little church is an example of the unique mixture of Arab and Norman architecture only found in Sicily and Spain. The Normans built various con- structions in a style incorporating the best practices of Arab and Byzantine details and ornamenta- tion into their own neoclassical style. The church of the Catalani,in fact, looks like a mosque with characteristic stone work and windows. As a university town, Messina is dotted with characteristic palazzi, ornamental churches, cute little bookstores, takeaway food joints and boutique restau- rants. It is a perfect place to sim- ply leisurely walk and explore. The central shopping district begins around Piazza Cairoli, near the ferry, and it continues further south after the piazza with a stream of elegant stores in a commercial hub of fashion. Messina has always been a mix of many cultures and styles: its unique geographical position connects it to the Italian peninsu- la and places it at the centre of the Mediterranean. The port connect- ed Sicily to the Holy Land, the Middle East and North Africa. The knights of the crusades departed from here in the Middle Ages, silk worms were imported from China through trade routes along the Far East, giving birth to the now famous textile industry of Italy's North. Infamously, the black plague made its way through Europe after infected rats found their way on board of a ship sailing to Messina. At the entrance of the port of Messina, the Virgin Mary stands with open arms to greet and bless everyone who enters the city. At 5.21 am on the 28th of December 1908 Messina was destroyed by a terrible earthquake and tsunami, the most devastating in Italy's history. An estimated 80,000 people were buried under the rubble of the city, others sur- viving the initial earthquake were swept away by a six meter high wave. Bodies of tidal wave vic- tims were discovered in the Greek Islands and in the Persian gulf in Asia: from that moment Messina changed forever. Over ninety percent of the city was obliterated, buildings were destroyed, the very streets disap- peared as the mountains slipped down on top of the city in giant land slides. Messina had gone from a bustling metropolis to lit- erally ruble and ruin. It is amazing to see today, one hundred and ten years later, how the historical city of Messina managed to rebuild itself. The many disasters and gigantic trau- mas which earned it the nick- name of "the city of ghosts," have not extinguished the place's spirit. Despite these catastrophic events Messina continues to exist and thrive thanks to the tenacity of its inhabitants and her eternal soul. Golden statue of the `Madonna della Lettera` on an obelisk at the entrance of the harbor of Messina Sicily Messina, the neglected capital ROCHELLE DEL BORRELLO These are the statues of mithological founders of the city of Messina, in Sicily, Italy. They are called Mata and Grifone. On the background you can see the city hall ALL AROUND ITALY TRAVEL TIPS DESTINATIONS ACTIVITIES

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