L'Italo-Americano

THURSDAY, JUNE 14, 2018 www.italoamericano.org 14 L'Italo-Americano ELIZABETH SALTHOUSE F or a little town just off the A16 autostrada, east of Naples, Nola has some big claims to fame. Spartacus once conquered it, Hadrian tried and the first Roman Emperor Caesar Augustus died here. Nola also famously introduced bells to Christian worship and today its festival of lilies draws visitors from around the world. But if you're imagining streets strewn with delicate, perfumed petals, think again. Nola's lilies are a lit- tle bit bigger than your average garden bloom, with each one tak- ing 120 burly men to carry it. Let's take a closer look. Modern Nola sits in the fer- tile, cultivated plains of Campa- nia, between Mount Vesuvius and the Apennines, roughly 16 miles north east of Naples. Once known as Novla, Nuviana or simply New Town, archaeologi- cal evidence suggests that Nola has been inhabited since at least the 17th century BC. From the Aurunci people to the Oscans, Etruscans to Samnites, all helped grow the small village until the Romans took control in 313 BC. Nola continued to see fight- ing. Hannibal and his troops famously clashed with the Roman army at Nola in 214 BC. And it's believed that the leg- endary slave revolt, led by Spar- tacus, stormed Nola in 74 BC. Life in Nola was challenging but the Romans brought stability and infrastructure. And it's to one particular Roman that we have to look as the inspiration for Nola's Festa dei Gigli or festival of the lilies. Pontius Meropius Anicius Paulinus, born near Bordeaux, France, rose quickly through the ranks thanks to a sound educa- tion and a wealthy father who was already prefect of Gaul (magistrate of France). Starting out as a lawyer, the youngster became prefect of Rome and then the Governor of Campania in 380 AD, aged just 27. He was successful in his professional life, living a comparatively luxu- rious life, but personal sorrow was to come. In 390 AD Paulinus and his Spanish noble wife Therasia suf- fered the death of their newborn son at just a few days old. The couple retreated from life and Paulinus turned to the Chris- tian faith of his wife for solace, being baptized shortly after- wards, just as his son had been. Deep in grief, the pair retired to Spain, giving away all their worldly goods to live an austere, chaste and pious life. Within a couple of years, and despite wanting a quiet life, Paulinus was pressed into service by the nascent Church when the Bishop of Barcelona ordained him as a priest on Christmas Day 393 AD. The devout couple moved to Nola in Campania to be near the tomb of St. Felix, who inspired them spiritually. And there they established a small community of monks. The priest served his commu- nity well and in 409, 16 years into his ministry, he became Bishop of Nola by popular vote, a post he'd hold until his death 22 years later. During his bishopric, a widow came to Paulinus to beg for his help. He was always willing to assist in any way he could, but this was different. Vandals raid- ing the region had taken her only son hostage and were demanding a ransom she had no means to pay. The Bishop wasn't a rich man either and having exhausted all his resources freeing other enslaved Nolans, he offered him- self as a substitute saying "Such as I have I give thee." As Pope Gregory the Great would later recount, Paulinus worked as a slave, tending gar- dens in Africa for the Vandals until the Vandal King discovered his true name and vocation, immediately setting him and the other captive people of Nola free. Paulinus had protected his flock selflessly and in the only way he knew how; his welcome home would be a glorious and joyful one. The humble bishop returned to his spiritual home of Nola as he'd left, by boat. And as he reached the Campanian shoreline Nolans were there to welcome him with lilies held aloft as a token of sincere gratitude for their freedom. Today the saint, now better known as San Paolino, is cele- brated with a feast day and a week of festivities to commemo- rate his life's work and death on 22nd June, 431 AD, aged 78. Preparations begin weeks and months before June with artisans, artists and tradesmen in the town hand-making first a scaffold and then a wood and papier-mâché spire intricately carved and adorned on the front with lilies, Christian emblems and imagery from the saint's life. These spires or gigli are the symbolic lilies of the festival. They tower 25 meters (75 feet) to the sky, the equivalent to a 7 or 8 story build- ing, and can weigh up to 2500 kg (5500 lbs) or roughly the same weight as a pickup or SUV. I told you Nolans like to go big! Unsurprisingly it takes mas- sive muscle power to lift each giglio, with teams of 120 paranze or cullatori (from the verb cullare, to rock or lull) positioned around the base ready to put their shoulders to the grid of support beams. Slowly they take the weight, moving forward in absolute synchrony – left, right, left, right – in time to a special band, creating the rocking, sway- ing motion that gives them their name. And although it's physi- cally demanding, often causing huge callouses on the men's shoulders, it's also a tremendous honor to carry the gigli with devotees wearing their scars lightly. Multiply the vision of one spire by eight, and add in the effi- gy of a wooden boat recreated every year like the spires to rep- resent the joy of Paolino's return, and its no wonder that thousands flock to see the festa and UNESCO wanted to protect its historic traditions. The parade takes all day, with the cullatori taking regular and well-deserved breaks as the lilies stop off at historic spots around the old town and then for a bless- ing at Nola cathedral. And with each spire representing one of the eight traditional trade guilds of Nola, everyone is involved in one way or another. From the spire for the ortolano (grocer) to the beccaio (butcher), from the fab- bro (smith) to the panettiere (baker), or from the sarto (tailor) to the calzolaio (showmaker), salumiere (delicatessen) and bet- toliere (inn keeper) everyone, from every generation, is there to give thanks to San Paolino. Even those Italo Americans who can't reach Nola can still show their gratitude to St. Paoli- no, as small pockets of Nola émi- grés re-enact the festa every year in their American homes, albeit on a smaller scale. The Sons of San Paolino, for example, put on an event in Long Island, New York each year, whilst Williams- burg, Brooklyn also sees a mini festival in honor of Paolino. It's just a little bit of home and more gigli celebrations are scattered across the States. Back in Italy, Nola's Festa dei Gigli continues to grow, with more and more visitors swelling the ranks of the little town around June 22nd each year. It's a festi- val that has persisted for over 1000 years, re-enacting and cele- brating the selfless life of a sim- ple Roman man, San Paolino, who gave everything of himself and to whom the community con- tinues to say an enormous and monumental thank you. Maybe next time you walk past some lilies, inhaling their sweet- smelling perfume, you'll think of Paulinus and say a little thank you too. Nola's towering festival of lilies Nola's lilies are not flowers, but enormous constructions, protected by UNESCO, celebrating the town's devotion for San Paolino LIFE PEOPLE PLACES HERITAGE

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